Limited Run Darth Maul TPM screen accurate lightsaber prop

[Halliwax]

Fantastic video once again! Thanks so much. You're a life saver

Any time, it’s an honor!

 

[Jedi Dade]

So first - Awesome kit.

Second - if the amount of assembly on this causes you angst - you're in the wrong hobby... Just sayin'

Jedi Dade

 

[el toro]

Hey DJblingbling

I’m guessing that the rod you found at Home Depot was this one:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-3-8-in-16-tpi

It’s $2 and 24”.

Pretty sure 24" will be the smallest off shelf. In addition to a hacksaw a 3/8 nut is pretty essential to clean up the threads rather than doing it on the end caps. Sandpaper or a file will help with taking the edge off as well, so I'd call those essential as well.

 

[Djblingbling1]

Lowes and 4$ so now I feel ripped, haha! HD is on the other side of town though so I would make up the money in gas. I just threw a nut on it to clean the threads post cut, hack-sawed it, and then used a file to clean it up before removing the nut. Tested with the same nut to make sure there was no issues and am calling it good!

 

[JoeG]

Video is great.

But I am disappointed about the amount of bits/pieces needed to make it all work/fit. Now I am surprised that we need more than the rod. Dan should be more HONEST at the outset about all that is required. The additional tooling needed to make the rod fit properly at the ends is also another issue. I would have gladly paid whatever the cost is to have it straight out of the box fully assembled. The workers in China would probably be as cost effective and efficient in making it a one piece/ready to display. I frankly am less interested in tooling the rod (I don't have the tools shown in the video to do what is suggested).

Now I have a kit that I can't put together. Now I can see why it cost ONLY $80. It's a half baked disappointing product.

corliss1 is offering up threaded rods that are ready to go if you don't want\can't go the DIY route. If you really hate your kit that much, I'll buy it from you. Frankly, I saw this coming from all your posts in this thread.

 

[Smylex]

Video is great.

But I am disappointed about the amount of bits/pieces needed to make it all work/fit. Now I am surprised that we need more than the rod. Dan should be more HONEST at the outset about all that is required. The additional tooling needed to make the rod fit properly at the ends is also another issue. I would have gladly paid whatever the cost is to have it straight out of the box fully assembled. The workers in China would probably be as cost effective and efficient in making it a one piece/ready to display. I frankly am less interested in tooling the rod (I don't have the tools shown in the video to do what is suggested).

Now I have a kit that I can't put together. Now I can see why it cost ONLY $80. It's a half baked disappointing product.

I understand your frustration but to be honest this is on YOU. Dan never lied about anything in this kit. He said the only thing you will need is a rod to connect the two sabers. That’s it. There are guys here on the forum that will hook you up with a rod and get you set up. You won’t be disappointed once it’s put together.

 

[Banthapudu4788]

I did not get in on this production run. I’ve looked at the pictures and tutorial videos. This is an amazing piece for a phenomenal price. Literally a couple more dollars in parts and the fun of putting it together. To have an amazing lightsaber replica. I don’t know what more could be wanted.

 

[Reel Fakes]

I'm almost finished with mine. I chucked the larger washers in my drill press and sanded them while rotating to even out the edges. I also installed a genuine Covertec knob. I drilled and tapped the saber for an M4 Phillips head which looks right to me. Is anyone else thinking about repainting the red buttons? The originals look to me like a transparent red over the silver base (mimicking an anodized finish).

Anyway, pics:

I love it - thanks, Dan!

 

[Halliwax]

I'm almost finished with mine. I chucked the larger washers in my drill press and sanded them while rotating to even out the edges. I also installed a genuine Covertec knob. I drilled and tapped the saber for an M4 Phillips head which looks right to me. Is anyone else thinking about repainting the red buttons? The originals look to me like a transparent red over the silver base (mimicking an anodized finish).

Anyway, pics:
View attachment 1015477
View attachment 1015478

I love it - thanks, Dan!

Covertec looks awesome!

 

[corliss1]

Reel Fakes - did the resin material do well with the tapping?

 

[Reel Fakes]

Reel Fakes - did the resin material do well with the tapping?

VERY well. Just take your time.

 

[Gregatron]

I had less success with tapping the hole, and so had to JB Weld my screw into the hilt.

 

[Anakin Starkiller]

For people who live outside of the USA and have a difficulty getting a 3/8-16 rod,

I was looking on ebay and came across these inserts, which might help. If I'm reading everything right, you should be able to use two of these inserts to convert the threading on the inside of the emitter plates to M6, and then you could use a metric rod instead of an Imperial rod.

319 - EZLOK THIN WALL CARBON STEEL THREADED INSERTS SIZES UNC, UNF & Metric | eBay

 

[eethan]

Not too bad of a solution indeed. I don't know if it's just on my tablet though but I'm not able to see the full line in the drop down menu so I cannot pick the good one with M6 and don't know if it's available.

 

[darth2518]

Where are you guys finding flat backed covertec wheels?

you can find them on ebay here is the item number 264129951437 hope this helps

 

[E Williams]

I chucked the larger washers in my drill press and sanded them while rotating to even out the edges.

I love how that looks! Could you expand a little on how you got them onto the drill press please? I'm picturing maybe some threaded rod in the chuck and nuts to clamp the washers up against it... Or am I overcomplicating it?

 

[Reel Fakes]

I love how that looks! Could you expand a little on how you got them onto the drill press please? I'm picturing maybe some threaded rod in the chuck and nuts to clamp the washers up against it... Or am I overcomplicating it?

Thanks! I assembled the entire emitter on a small section of the 3/8 rod and chucked the whole thing into the drill press with a rubber washer to keep it tightened. I also glued the washers together beforehand.

 

[Martin Sabers]

I found following offer for the 3/8 16 threaded rod in EU/ Germany for 11€

Gewindestange 3/8"-16 (Grob) Länge 3´ (900mm) Grade 28(11€/m), M&F Online Store

 

[eethan]

you can find some on ebay also, but they are always quite expensive with the shipping costs included sadly

 

[_Lee_]

Video is great.

But I am disappointed about the amount of bits/pieces needed to make it all work/fit. Now I am surprised that we need more than the rod. Dan should be more HONEST at the outset about all that is required. The additional tooling needed to make the rod fit properly at the ends is also another issue. I would have gladly paid whatever the cost is to have it straight out of the box fully assembled. The workers in China would probably be as cost effective and efficient in making it a one piece/ready to display. I frankly am less interested in tooling the rod (I don't have the tools shown in the video to do what is suggested).

Now I have a kit that I can't put together. Now I can see why it cost ONLY $80. It's a half baked disappointing product.

Unbelievable!

You sir are a complete and utter tool. Do you realise how much work goes into these runs? people like you make my blood boil. If you want already assembled then buy a MR or another for 5 times the price. I bet you were the kid who complained when you realise you had to put a Lego mini figure together??? Seriously, you are in the wrong hobby.

I havent received mine yet but i know they will be the dogs bollocks.Just as good as a metal version, if not better.

Dan, thanks again bro. You nailed it right on.