Customer build 1/350 NX-01

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She's in the paint shop again and a clear coat applied to the top side. Later today I'll get the under side and we let her sit for 24 hours.

Steve

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If you look close you can see some of the hundreds of small little decals.
 
Looking fabulous Steve!
Please tell me the order again, will ya?
Does it go:
1) Outer paint
2) Buffing the surface
3) metalizer sealer
4) Clear coat
5) Aztec Transfers
6) Decal Set
7) Clear Coat
8) Detail Transfers
9) Decal Set
10) Semi-gloss Clear Coat?

I'm going back through this thread again to see if I can pick out the order you used!
 
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Aztecs, clear coat gloss, kit supplied decals, clear gloss. You almost had it right. The gloss by the time is all said and done isn't that glossy. Besides it's going to get a battle rash weathering job with the airbrush today. That tends to dull it down a bit.

Steve
 
it is also a matter of preference, but always apply decals to a clear gloss layer. flat clears don't help prevent silvering. a gloss coat wont guarantee no silvering, but it reduces it significantly and it may not happen at all. Also I prefer to spray clear gloss to seal the decals down, and then spray dullcoat. The dullcoat solutions out there can sometimes eat into the top surface of the decals, so another clear gloss then dullcoat helps prevent that.

Also, if using the Metalizers from Testors, apply a coat of their sealer. then clear gloss. On my kits I sprayed the Metlizer, waited a day, sprayed the sealer, waited 2 days, sprayed Future, sprayed Future again the next day, and today I'll start applying decals. The future is supposed to be able to be walked on in 30 minutes, so I figure if you can walk on it in 30 minutes, you can decal in a day and be plenty safe. Also dont apply decal over decal. If you have a decal that goes over another decal, like a kit decal over an aztec decal, apply a coat of clear gloss, let it cure, then decal. Help prevent decal on decal violence.
 
My preference is for Future because you can use both oil based washes over it, enamel based washes and water based washes. Whereas with Testors Clear Gloss Enamel you can only use oil or water based, or with acrylic you can only use oil washes. Future is acrylic but slightly different chemically so that it is more resilient against enamel thinners used in washes. That said I just use the Long Enterprises Detailer ready made water based washes. (you probably wouldn't need to use a wash on the NX though)

The moral of the story is always use a clear gloss coat before and after decals. Sliding decals into place is WAY smoother on a gloss coat, it helps reduce occurances of silvering, and it seals in the decals better after application, and then gives a surface for dullcoat to bite into without damaging decals or paint.
 
Thanks Bernard.

After nearly 4 weeks of work the NX-01 is finished. Dave or FuseNova had me add a bit of weathering and battle rash. I went back over her several times today and called her done. Most definitely camera ready.

So here’s a whole bunch of pictures and video for you to enjoy. As soon as I finish the molds for the big Enterprise I’ll be building mine. IK learned to really fall in love with this hip after getting to know her! Great design Doug!

Steve

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NX-01 Video
 
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Steve-
Is it possible you have out done your self? :confused This is simply inspirational work and could easily be a museum quality piece. Thanks for sharing! :thumbsup
 
Steve,

I don't know what is more impressive: your artistry and technical skill or incredible endurance in applying all those decals! I really enjoyed every aspect of this whole thread, from learning from it to seeing your courtesy in answering everyones questions and comments. Great job.

Barryjoe.
 
Absolutely gorgeous! If I were you I'd send the commission back to the customer and tell him it can't be done...then keep it for myself. ;)

I'm kidding, of course, but I might be tempted.
 
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