Creeper Latex Mask Build

lionback

New Member
Jeepers Creepers where j-get those peepers....? :facepalm, like most things that interest me you cant get them so I like allot of folks build there own.
This is my version of the Creeper mask, I do sometimes try to copy exactly what I see in a film or if its something like a dinosaur I of course have to stick to the current theories on how high the tail should be or something like that but with this build I wanted to make it more real... I like the Creeper design but if I'm honest some aspects of the head were to weak looking (don't kick off):angry if your a Creeper fan because I am also but the fingers on the film mask look unreal, thin and almost stuck on. They should have little pressure depressions where the fingers grip the skull and have formed joints so they look like they can move of required but I don't think the film version has that look. also the mandibles have that same pathetic look to them, this thing must grip and tear its pray and bite.. so lets see fangs that look like they can bite.:love

The problem is if you make them very different it wont look like the creeper....PROBLEM!!!, so pushing the design while remaining loyal to the original should be fun and risky... I don't want people to say "Whats that"?, this is my attempt at making the Creeper more Creepy and still not stepping of the page... pray for me!!!....:angel
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Thanks 1mpulseSOD:cool, we can only hope.. I saw ta thread that had a Creeper latex mask (spot on film version style) NO animation in the mask looked like it was dead but sold for $3000.+ lol, well done to that man!. really why people ask such money for what is nothing but tree sap and get it, I will never understand. its like elite art.. it benefit's no one but the agent. :behave

ANYWAY... The next stage in this journey is the mold, I only have a few threads running on RPF but already guys are asking about my molds and what I use?, I have developed a very cheep but totally effective way of mold making for latex.. Its the aggregate mold.

This is 10mm layer of pure cement and a 15mm layer of grit sand mortar to strengthen the first layer and prevent cracking, its heavy and takes some making but saves on £££.
The mold for the Creeper mask probably cost me less than £2.50 in material , time is another matter but even so it can be finished in about four hours spread over about a week and then another week to fully cure before splitting the mold. I have been using this type of mold for a few years now. The advantages are the surface of the mold is very hard and dose not degrade as you cast copy's like plaster molds do and its far easier to work than plaster, once you get the slump rite you have about 30minits to work the mold but with plaster its like trying to mold while running against a stop watch lol. and its not as messy..:love


This photos are of the mask mold and the mandible mold.

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Thanks for the support with this build I'm new on R.P.F and after seeing the quality of the art on display I think to dip my toe in to this arena I am humbled and inspired.:cheers

This is the latex cast from my mold, what I do is thicken pure latex with natural product that has no chemicals and costs pennies per mask. I know thickening agent are available from the latex production companies but you don't have to shell out £££ to thicken your latex. Remember latex is a natural product, its tree sap, or should I say sourced from vegetation.

Has anyone ever picked the head of a Dandelion?, they grow in most gardens and Tortoises love them but if you pick the yellow flower from this plant you will see latex well up from the broken stem.
That made me think what did the pioneers of latex use to thicken this natural wounder. The greats like Lewis O'Brien and Ray Harryhouson must have had to find a solution to this problem???.:facepalm

I thought one plant material will except another!, so I tested a substance that every kitchen will have... FLOUR, yes that stuff you used to make paper Masha with and even is used as a glue when mixed with water.. so yes latex mixed with small amounts of flour and a hand whisk for about 15 minutes will leave you with a perfectly smooth thickened liquid that will air dry within 12 hours at about 3/4mm depth. Three or four layers will be enough to make a durable long lasting latex mask that is flexible and durable. I have items made this way that are 10 years old and still as good as the day they were made.:love

This may not be news to you but if it is and you make latex items, please have a play with my experience and I hope it has the same benefits that it gave to me the day I experimented with this everyday item.:behave

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Mr Gray... you are very kind.. this is may Creeper mask during the paint prosess.

As before I dont shell out £££ all my paints are Poster paints that kids use to create hell with in school. Mix it with latex and using a brush or two you can obtain great results.
wash your brush in fairy liquid (washing up liquid) and tease the latex bits from the brush with tools and your brush is ready after a short rinse to go another mask...

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The white bits are repairs in latex to make good the damaged parts from the casting process.

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Next step and the last stage in the paint job...



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Thats the painting dome and yes thats me in the mask, next is the hair...:facepalm
 
awesome mask.

what type of clay did you use?
and how did you make it hard?

it looks incredible

i would love to make a mask one day
 
Holy hell. That's incredible. :eek :eek :eek :eek
Thanks for the info on your mold making process. I may have to try that one day.
 
WOW! That is very impressive! One of the scariest masks I've seen. So much detail. Incredible job.
 
awesome mask.

what type of clay did you use?
and how did you make it hard?

it looks incredible

i would love to make a mask one day[/QUOTE

I used basic school clay, not a very fine grade clay but very good for most sculpts.. its not the clay you use, its the way you use your clay:love

thanks for the question...
 
What was the hardest part of makig the mold?

well the most important part of the mold is the detail layer, thats the pure cement layer and you need to use fresh ciment from an unopened bag because this will cream up very well and have a green resin look to it. if you use old cement you will get lumps and air bubbles in the detailed layer.
fresh is always best.:love
 
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