Contact Adhesive/Cement.

Discussion in 'Replica Costumes' started by ScumfucInc, Aug 18, 2015.

  1. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    G'day folks!

    I'm sure this question has been asked and answered many times before, however! If someone could please direct me to a previous thread or simply respond to this it would be greatly appreciated.

    I am looking for the Aussie equivalent to 'Barge Cement' to adhere EVA Foam. I've browsed through the Bunnings website and found two possibilities...

    1) 'Sika' 4600 Contact Adhesive (bonds flexible foam material and other things).

    2) 'Parfix' Fast Grip Adhesive (bonds rubber and other things).

    My bet is Sika considering the label specifically states it "bonds foam". Has anyone had any experience using these products and would you recommend them or perhaps another brand altogether? I'm not a fan of hot glue, so please don't suggest it.

    I am also looking for the Aussie equivalent to 'Mod Podge'! Any suggestions?

    Cheers!
     
  2. GasmanR

    GasmanR Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Not sure about the Mod Podge but tandyleather.com.au sell a contact cement called Tanners Bond designed for leather work. They state that it is made for them by Barge. At the moment I have not tried it so I can't comment on how well it works. HTH.
     
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  3. GasmanR

    GasmanR Active Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Again I have never used the stuff but Mod Podge can be obtained from www.birchhaby.com.au
     
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  4. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Cheers GasmanR! The most defiantly helps. I'll suss 'em out. :D
     
  5. Badgersbunk

    Badgersbunk Active Member

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    I think the equivalent to mod podge would be pva glue(maybe slightly watered down). I might be wrong but I believe that's all it is.
     
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  6. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Cheers Badgersbunk! I googled the difference between Mod Podge and PVA. And you'r right! They're quite similar. You can make your own just by watering down "white glue" (PVA/polyvinyl acetate). I also discovered that the craft term for this glue is known as "decoupage glue", an all-in-one sealer, glue and finish. Awesome!
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  7. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm also Aussie, I've seen mod podge for sale in Spotlight occasionally, and I know there are Aussie ebay sellers who carry it. The adhesive I use for foam fabrication is the Parfix gel bond contact adhesive, it's so much easier to use than the liquid ones and gives a great, flexible bond. Just coat both surfaces lightly, wait for them to turn slightly opaque then press together. Great stuff!
     
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  8. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Grouse, cheers fallimar! Yeah I've had no luck at Spotlight mate. I'll suss out ebay though (otherwise I'll just DIY it with some PVA, clag 'n H2O haha). Also Bunnings is a quick trip around the corner so I might grab a pot of that Parfix stuff and order some Tanners Bond.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  9. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    You know I've never actually seen anyone use "grouse" before. Must be more Australian over that side of the 'straya :p
    Yeah, mod podge is easy to find online. If you're interested also and want a flexible foam coating, I've just started using the rust o leum brand peel coat (also from bunnings in the spray paint bit) to seal a little ninja turtle shell I'm building for my son, works a treat if you ever need an alternative to plasti-dip :)
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
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  10. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Blimey! It's probably just my native Victorian tongue. However the use of the crudely abbreviated Australia ("'Straya") in bogan dialect really grinds my gears. I might be a bit of a knucklehead but strewth mate... *shakes fist*

    I like 'Pasti-Dip' but I'm always on the hunt for alternatives/equivalents (the cheaper the better :darnkids). I've used 'Rust Oleum' products before, great brand. I'll defiantly give his 'Peel Coat' a crack. Cheers again!

    P.S. If you think of anything else just drop me a line. :D

    - - - Updated - - -

    ***this
     
  11. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh, forgot my disclaimer - **'straya and all other bogan vocabulary used only in the spirit of irony and jest, any association to actual bogans or boganism are coincidental and... profoundly disturbing**

    Also you may have just invented a rather wonderful euphemism with "giving his peel coat a crack". Naturally, referring to peeling a banana. Of course.

    Seriously though, loving the peel coat. The detail on my shell was simple but fine and I was worried it might gum it up, but even with three heavy coats it's still just as visible.
     
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  12. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    hahahahaha of course! ;):cheers

    Anyway, "banana" jokes aside, do you think you'll be uploading any photos to your facebook on the progress of the turtle shell? I'd be keen to see the progress.
     
  13. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh, sure! It's pretty rough, I know he's going to destroy it so I'm not making it amazing or anything but you can see it if you like! I'll grab photos when I can, though it's pretty tricky photographing black rubbery foam. I'll give it a shot.
     
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  14. Dezziedc

    Dezziedc Jr Member

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    Well I am currently using Kwik grip which is also a contact adhesive. I've just built a helmet using a small tube to test it out. It's pretty good and works exactly the same. Tough as as well - tried to pull some test bits apart and ended up ripping the foam a fair way back from the seam. very flexible as well.

    http://www.bunnings.com.au/search/products?q=kwik grip&redirectFrom=Any

    As for Modge Podge and a sealer, I just use PVA with a little water if it's too think. Just grab some from Bunnings while you are there.

    I've used Plasti-dip for past work and it's not too bad. Can get cans of it from Autopro now. Never tried any other similar alternatives.

    About to give Smoothon 65D a go for coating some stuff - so will see how that goes.
     
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  15. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yeah, kwik grip gel bond is just as good. Most contact adhesives seem to work just fine, really. I loved the bostik one years back, just a pity they don't seem to carry it any more.
     
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  16. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    No worries mate, no rush. Look forward to seeing the results! :D
     
  17. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Cheers Dezziedc! I'll see what Bunnings have in stock. Gonna experiment with a few of the brands that have been suggested so far and attempt to write up a definitive "Australian Craft Shopping List" when I'm done. Let us know how the Smooth-n stuff works for you. I've used their resins and silicon, great products.

    P.S. I gather you'll be ordering the 65D from Rowe Trading?
     
  18. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I posted photos to my facebook costuming page and uploaded them here so yay, easy access :p
     
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  19. Dezziedc

    Dezziedc Jr Member

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    Actually I ordered it on line from a place called polymech. It's not the actual Smooth-on product but basically the same thing - Liquid Hardcast Polyurethane. They are based in Victoria.
     
  20. fallimar

    fallimar Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  21. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Awesome! I'll have a gander.

    As for the dragon skin? Great product. I used it to cast some prosthetic wounds I sculpted for a Zombie Walk a few years back. You can still purchase the trial kits for about $70 from Rowe Trading. Shipping is approximately $30. Apparently they're the only registered Smooth-On retailer in Australia? I'll suss these ebay and Polymech folks out too.

    :cool
     
  22. Dezziedc

    Dezziedc Jr Member

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    Hey guys, just an update here.

    I have recently been able to try a couple of things. Firstly, I tried a product called PC-7 for filling in seams. It dries pretty quickly and is sandable. Unfortunately I don't have a pic of it applied prior to the additional work I did on this test piece, however you can see the outline of it in the pics. It seems to work pretty well as you can't actually see the seam in the work I did - but you may have to apply 2 coats before sanding - foam seems to absorb it a bit in the first coat.

    image1.JPG

    Once I was done with that, I sanded it back (it stands out in the pic but after the plastic is applied it's quite flat) and then applied 3 coats of pure PVA (not watered down). Once that had dried completely I applied 2 coats of my polytech liquid polyurethane. Pic 1 is after both coats. You can see some bubbling occurred. Pic 2 is after some sanding with a fairly fine grit paper (not sure what it was as it was just a scrap piece I had handy). Looks are deceiving - it is smoother than it looks. There are still a couple of pocks from a couple of the bubbles, but generally a good result. I did it as a stationary piece, so there was no rotation to smooth it out. I believe rotating it should make a bit of a difference.

    image2.JPG image3.JPG

    My next step will be to do a bit more sanding and then apply another layer of the plastic to make sure it doesn't flake. I won't be able to do that until the weekend. If I get time I'll do some painting on it too and post up the results.

    Edit: Looking at it more closely, the reason the PC-7 stands out is because it is a little higher than the foam. Just enough for the plastic to only apply a slightly thinner layer than the rest of the piece. Will need to ensure that it is sanded better for any actual application. Having said that, it's not hugely noticeable when looking at it from a flat angle or when running the finger over it.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2015
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  23. Dezziedc

    Dezziedc Jr Member

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    Final update.

    Last night I got a chance to take the next steps.

    I sanded the piece back with a rough grit - 60 I think it was. Then I mixed another batch of the plastic and applied it - this time a little thicker. I then sanded it back with a finer grit. End result is here:

    image1.JPG

    As you can see, there are still bubble marks and there was some bit of dust that fell on it while it was drying. However the sanding brought most of it down level. For actual pieces I will apply a better sand to ensure the item is flat.

    I then applied 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of aluminium and 2 coats of clear gloss.

    End result is:

    image2.JPG

    Can't see it in the pic but it is very glossy and looks pretty much like glass. The main thing is that the plastic coating worked and the seam is completely hidden.

    Main lesson is to ensure the piece is sanded enough to remove the imperfections. Having said that, it depends on how perfect you want it. This result will look better at a closer range than the standard foam work, but if you were looking at it up close, it is easy to see the bubble marks.

    I think this sort of thing would work well with helmets and smaller pieces. Not sure you would have enough time to work with larger pieces.

    I'm part way through creating a helmet so i'll document the process using the same methods and post the results.
     
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  24. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Awesome! Is the PC-7 easy to acquire or was it a special order from Poly-tech? I worked on a mask recently using the info from this thread. However I didn't have anything to smooth the seams (or gaps) with so I used them to my advantage and created a rough weld effect with some contact adhesive and zap-a-gap medium to fill and give some texture where the edges didn't bond. Might try your technique on version 2.

    IMG1300.jpg
     
  25. Dezziedc

    Dezziedc Jr Member

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    That looks pretty good!!! I think it works well with the paint job as well.

    I got PC-7 from Bunnings. There were a few options there but this one seemed the most versatile. It's not overly cheap but a little goes a fair way. It's really a bog of sorts so I am sure others would work in a similar manner. This one however seems a little flexible after it has dried. Not plasti-dip flexible but it does allow some movement. I like the fact that it dries hard and is sandable.
     
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  26. ScumfucInc

    ScumfucInc New Member

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    Cheers mate! And yeah, I think I'll try this next. It might just be what I'm after!
     

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