Guan, I would recommend using aluminum powder over the nickel/silver that smooth-on sells, because the nickel is super expensive. $50 a pound? Hooooly ****. Depending on how heavy it is (probably quite) then that 1lb may not go very far either. So far I've used aluminum, bronze and copper, and 1lb of aluminum is significantly more powder than 1lb of bronze. www.sculpturedepot.net sells aluminum powder that I've used before, with good results with the smooth cast 325.
I don't know that this is exactly a substitute for painting either. It will looks silvery, yes, but that's it. It's still a blank slate that you need to weather over the top of, it's simply with cold casting, the technique is different. You can use paint if you want, I personally use a propane torch and aluma black.
In case it helps, here's some pics I took for someone while I was doing a cold cast celtic bio. I do it a little different to the smooth on video.
Dave, yes, that's exactly how I do it. A thin outer layer of the cold cast material is all you need, as it gets heavy fast. I use roughly 1lb of powder per bio just doing a couple of thin coats.Do you do multiple pours to fill and thicken the casting? Pic makes layer shown look really thin and doesnt cover completely but I assume that that is because of setting time being involved.
Bingo. It's slightly time consuming and may take some practice till you get used to how the resin sets. I find smoothcast 320 to work best because it has a pretty gradual set up.Ok, just so I get this right...Coat the mold with a thin layer of the resin/metal mix, allow to set up, and then do layers of regular resin until the bio is built up to the desired thickness allowing each layer to set before the next layer it added.
Am I tracking that right?