Clear Coat on Resin


New Member
Hi people,

I recently started using Smooth-Cast 60D, casting figures with a pressure pot at Ease Release 200 to help the flow. I've been told that a release agent is not nescessary but my models are quite porous and air bubbles come up even with a pressure pot so, the release agent helps solve that problem.

After the pull and a thorough detailed washing with all the right soaps, I've tried to coat my model with a gloss coat to give it a nice shine. Problem I'm having is finding a clear coat that properly sticks to the resin. Some, not all parts of the resin flake easily, even after a month of dry time. I've used liquitex gloss varnish and Krylon Crystal Clear. I was assured that Krylon would work and it works better than liquitex but, still, the coat flakes off quite easily. Even with a slight flick of a finger nail.

I add color to my resin beforehand rather than color so the figures can't take on a primer after casting. Simply, I need a clear coat that will stick to the resin as is.

Any help is much appreciated.



division 6

Master Member
Have you tried talc powder (baby powder works) instead of mold release?

I add color to my resin beforehand rather than color so the figures can't take on a primer after casting. Simply, I need a clear coat that will stick to the resin as is.

Not really understanding this one.
You are pre-coloring so you don't have to primer?
Primer is what helps paint stick to the object.

All the figure kit's I have bought (several dozen) get a warm bath with Dawn dish soap (soaked a few yours), scrubbed with an old toothbrush, then a good warm rinse, then air dry.
Accept for any uncured resin weeping oils, I've never had any problem with primer sticking.
I use Dupli-Color Automotive Lacquer primer.
You need to sand the parts. And clean off the mold release. Soap and water will not remove the release good enough. And and paint will not like a wax based release.

Edit. If you cant sand parts. You need to find a good wax and greae remover. And also maybe try an adhesion promoter. Its clear so it wont mess up your color. Spray one coat of the promoter after a good cleaning. Let it flash off. And then shoot your clear


division 6

Master Member
Transmission fluid, Super Clean, Purple Power etc. are used by many people as a way to de-grease their kits.
I've used Super Clean a few times but in a couple cases it dyed the resin purple and in one case softened and warped the piece.
That is why I used Dawn now.


New Member
Typed that sentence quickly. I meant that I add the colour to the resin before pouring. I don't colour my figures after casting and therefore, I need a clear coat that can go right on top of the resin. Thanks for the tip. I'll try baby powder.

Could you explain the "uncured resin weeping oils"
Meant to imply that maybe my resin is not setting correctly?

- - - Updated - - -

The trouble is, I live in Russia and all products are named differently. Could you tell me what ingredient dawn has that helps clean the figure so well? I'll have to find another product with the same ingredient.

division 6

Master Member
In some cases the resin has gone bad or isn't mixed properly and oils from the resin come to the surface.
This usually means you have to grind out the area and re-sculpt it with an epoxy putty like Aves or Magic Sculpt.

Dawn Dish Soap.
Also used for cleaning up wildlife effected by oil spills.

Might want to add your location to your personal info so others in your area may be able to help you find alternatives. ;)

If you are interested, there is a figure forum that always has lot's of good information.
You do have to be signed in to view the forum but it is free to join.
Club House.
They do have requirements that have to be met for those wishing to sell and no recasting is allowed.


New Member
Thanks! I'll go register.

Someone just suggested that I apply MOLD RELEASE into the silicone, followed by Crystal Clear (directly onto the MOLD) and pour the resin in.
Has anyone tried this process?

division 6

Master Member
I've done the paint in the mold a few times without mold release.

Another thing you could try for a clear coat is airbrushing on Future Floor wax, not sure what it's sold as in Europe, maybe Pledge.
Scale modelers use it as a gloss coat before applying decals, they also dip clear parts in it to make them shiny and cover scratches.


New Member
Thanks for all the tips. Got a bit of work ahead of me. Gonna start off with baby powder this weekend and see how the clear coat sits from that cast.

Jedi Dade

Master Member
It certainly sounds like there is something else going on... check your resin mix ratios to be positive that there is enough hardener... not enough hardener (or too much) will lead to resins that have an "oily" surface as has been mentioned - that could stop the clear from adhering properly. I've also had great success with Tamiya clear. many of the other clears tend to "frost" or yellow. I've not had any of that experience with the Tamiya Clear.

Baby powder certainly works with opaque resin pours... not sure how that will work when you want something to be clear. I could see this causing a "haze" to the cast - but I've never tried it so... it could work.

but the main thing I think is check your mix ratios and weigh carefully. and then wash with plenty of soapy water. I always give all resin parts a lengthy soak in soapy water before I do anything with them.

Jedi Dade


New Member
I've had the "oily surface" issue and wasn't sure why until your post (really new to this). A few pulls came out heavily covered in "goo" that is just unwashable. Most pulls however come out just mildly greasy, from what I assume is the ease release. I'll be extra cautious with the mix ratios going forward though. Thanks for that extra tip.

I've also found wax and grease remover & adhesion promoter here in Russia so I'll test those out as well.


New Member
For those of you unable to sleep over the past few weeks regarding this issue, it seems like the adhesion promoter is what was missing.
a nice scrub with a grease and wax remover, coated with adhesion promoter and a urethane topcoat has resulted in a super strong coat that won't come off even under extreme pressure.

Thanks for all the help from everyone on this thread
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