Christmas Lights To Light Models?

[PHArchivist]

Thoughts...?

I did this YEARS ago using the white, incandescent mini-bulbs (before the days of LEDs) with an AMT 22" Enterprise Refit. Took some sanding to make clearance in the saucer, and wasn't fancy, but it worked.

Figure if I can squeeze them in on the 22", then the 1:350 should be easier.

Again, thoughts on this?

--I realize incandescents burn hot, and if left on can melt styrene.
--I have a string of "white" (more blue) LEDs I planned on for the Refit 1:350
--And a string of the white, incandescent mini-bulbs for the TOS 1:350
--Figure different color effects can be attained with films, gels, and clear colored paints
--Or I suppose you might be able to replace a clear bulb with a colored bulb
--On the old 22", I had nothing in the nacelles; I wonder how effective stripping the insulation down to bare wire would be to fit into the 1:350 nacelles
--Also wonder how effective it would be to remove bulbs, and re-connect the wire where necessary to create longer "runs" of wire without bulbs (like for running up the nacelle struts)
--Love the fact that, though not fancy (no blinking, flashing, or other effects) that it is essentially "plug & play"

Tel me what you think for this "poor man's", or "lazy and unskilled man's" lighting method.

 

[crackerjazz]

Hi PHArchivist, I once stripped wire to make it thinner and easier to thread through in tight spaces. They crossed and shorted. Found it so difficult to troubleshoot without prying the model open again. I currently use AWG-30 gauge and strip only the very tips of the wires and solder carefully, and use heatshrink tube on the leads for extra precaution against shorts, as well as over solder joints when splicing wires together.

Incandescent bulbs will burn out and consume more power so not good for battery-operated setups. The smaller LED ones called "super-bright" are excellent.

I don't know if you can get any of those solder-free connectors but make sure that when you splice wires together that they are secure and completely insulated with tape or heatshrink tube.

 

[Atlanthia]

I also looked into this and even sourced a string of 30 blue white lights form EBay for 1 penny... They run off of a power pack that requires two AA batteries. From the limited experience that I have, I would say that they are great to use so long as you have the space. Also, I have since bought a set that run on a 12v supply which is even better as there are no batteries to replace. My current Builds, (52 inch Eagle Transporter and 1/10th scale T.O.S. Enterprise bridge,) are both being illuminated with the adhesive 12v LED waterproof ribbons, which can be cut into blocks of three or run as a whole multi metre length. They are flat and take little space, come in a
large variety of colours and are as easy as pie to hook up. So in short, yes, they do work, but choose the right size for the model you are making. For what you are doing, I would suggest the mini LEDs which normally run on AA's.

 

[Jaitea]

I have a set of LED lights I got in January sales last year for my Fine Molds Falcon 1/72, I recently took the string apart and they all are wired parallel so if you decide to take half the lights away it does't effect the power & brightness to them (I think), I also extended the distance of some of them for a test using some of its own wire & that didn't effect them negatively.....maybe other manufacturers may wire them differently, but these were perfect for me.

J

 

[F3nri5]

I have a set of LED lights I got in January sales last year for my Fine Molds Falcon 1/72, I recently took the string apart and they all are wired parallel so if you decide to take half the lights away it does't effect the power & brightness to them (I think), I also extended the distance of some of them for a test using some of its own wire & that didn't effect them negatively.....maybe other manufacturers may wire them differently, but these were perfect for me.

J

The voltage across each LED remains the same. But the important part to remember is that the mA per LED will increase. So long as the mA does not exceed the max rating of each LED it wont fry. Higher mA, within spec, will, long term, shorten the LED life.

In these battery powered strings, because the battery cells have an internal resistance, the LED's do not require a current resistor each as is usual in other uses. So the number of LED's has been calculated by the maker to suit the mA available overall.

3n

 

[PHArchivist]

The type of lights I'm considering are the plug-in type. Not battery...

 

[F3nri5]

Hi PHArcivist

The same would apply. The number of LED's and the wall wart would have been matched, as it were, with some small current head room. Removing LED's from the string will increase the mA to each remaining LED.

3n

 

[PHArchivist]

Did a quick test on fitting. The necks (dorsals) of the 1:350 Enterprises will be tough. Can't fit much more than two bulbs, and the wiring gets tricky not to block windows. But should work.

 

[PHArchivist]

Here's a look...

 

[James Kenobi 1138]

You should check the auto parts store, where they sell all that custom junk that kids put on their cars to make them look cool.

I saw some really tiny bright plug-and-play LED light strips at Auto-Zone. 12 volt, you could easily wire them up and use a 12v power transformer.

 

[Atlanthia]

You know, something isn't adding up here....12 years of continuous membership, 17,172 posts, some of the most incredible builds on the RPF to your name (not least, that awesome Death Star!!!), Respected by everyone who is anyone, and even by me, and I am still noone!:lol and you are seriously asking about putting heat generating bulbs into a model? I thought you were at least referring to LED fairy lights, as they are not heat generating, come in various sizes and can be purchased for as little as 1 penny for a string of 30+ with free postage on line. you could cram 10 of the mini LED's alone into the neck section of your build without any fear of distortion or melting. If you want to know where to get them, feel free t P.M. me and I will pop you a few live auctions from the ebay seller I use.

Did April 1st come early? :confused :lol
Please don't do this :cry.......PUHLEASE! cry:cry :lol

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

You know, something isn't adding up here....12 years of continuous membership, 17,172 posts, some of the most incredible builds on the RPF to your name (not least, that awesome Death Star!!!), Respected by everyone who is anyone, and even me, and I am still noone!:lol and you are seriously asking about putting heat generating bulbs into a model?

Did April 1st come early? :confused :lol
Please don't do this :cry.......PUHLEASE! cry:cry :lol

It could be worse: he could have asked about using Christmas illumination of ages past, when lit candles in the tree were the norm! :lol

 

[Atlanthia]

:lol :lol :lol

Seriously, though, I have to say, I am only pulling your leg or "chain".....please don't take offence..

 

[PHArchivist]

You know, something isn't adding up here....12 years of continuous membership, 17,172 posts, some of the most incredible builds on the RPF to your name (not least, that awesome Death Star!!!), Respected by everyone who is anyone, and even by me, and I am still noone!:lol and you are seriously asking about putting heat generating bulbs into a model? I thought you were at least referring to LED fairy lights, as they are not heat generating, come in various sizes and can be purchased for as little as 1 penny for a string of 30+ with free postage on line. you could cram 10 of the mini LED's alone into the neck section of your build without any fear of distortion or melting. If you want to know where to get them, feel free t P.M. me and I will pop you a few live auctions from the ebay seller I use.

Did April 1st come early? :confused :lol
Please don't do this :cry.......PUHLEASE! cry:cry :lol

Ahem...

For those not paying attention:

--I realize incandescents burn hot, and if left on can melt styrene.
--I have a string of "white" (more blue) LEDs I planned on for the Refit 1:350

Only reason I've even considered those incandescent mini-bulbs is the color, and that I've seen the MR TO "E" be criticozed for having the bluish tint that most "white" LEDs have.

Figured this thread wouldn't last too long before I started catch some **** in one way or another!

 

[Atlanthia]

As I said, I was kidding with you and, Yes I did read those posts, but yellow white/warm white LED's are easily available now and not at all expensive. Anyway, after 12 years treading these boards, you gotta have a much bigger bat than me so any **** I ever sent your way would deservedly end up right back in my face! :lol and rightly so.
I have those links if you ever want them

 

[PHArchivist]

As I said, I was kidding with you and, Yes I did read those posts, but yellow white/warm white LED's are easily available now and not at all expensive. Anyway, after 12 years treading these boards, you gotta have a much bigger bat than me so any **** I ever sent your way would deservedly end up right back in my face! :lol and rightly so.
I have those links if you ever want them

I know ya were!

 

[yuumi2891103]

I've been using the Christmas white color LEDs for lighting.
100 bulbs for about 10 dollar(Made in China).
It's very reliable.

When the bulb is bit long for the tight space.

You can even cut the clear head shorter.

I often use the hot glue for isolation and fixing the bulb.

I'm using the clear paint of Tamiya Mr. color

katsu

 

[division 6]

You should check the auto parts store, where they sell all that custom junk that kids put on their cars to make them look cool.

I saw some really tiny bright plug-and-play LED light strips at Auto-Zone. 12 volt, you could easily wire them up and use a 12v power transformer.

I mentioned these on a forum a few years ago then 3 months later the model accessories guy's stated selling it converted to battery's.

Go figure.

Anyway, you can get the ribbons and snap on wire attachments cheap.
Same stuff used in the 350 TOS lighting kit.

ParaGrafix sells them.
I plan to use them in my 2 refits and other models.

 

[PHArchivist]

I have those links if you ever want them

By the way - shoot them over!

 

[3djinn]

I was thinking about using USB fairy lights in a model I'm going to make. That means I could run four strings of different coloured lights from one powered hub inside the model. It seems like it might be a good way to use all those obsolete USB 1.0 hubs.