Chappie - Head Project (3D Printed) - Build Thread / Picture Heavy / Finished! -> Page2

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diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi guys!

I've been working on my chappie head project and although I've been taking a lot of pictures, thought it would be good to document the process here and get help and feedback as I progress.

I got the original 3D files from RPF member Razmataz, and created/modified some new parts to be more screen accurate and also made a stand to display the head.

Here is the goal of this project:
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Finished Result:
Chappie-12.jpg


I will share my progress on the next couple posts!
 
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diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
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I was using a Prusa i3 MK2S with an IKEA enclosure to help with the ABS printing.

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Sliced some of the parts myself, to make it easier to print.

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If I were to do it all again, I would slice the whole model myself and include more registration keys for the parts to fit together.

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I glued the parts together with a good dose of super glue, so I could sand it afterwards.

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Used some clamps to help while glueing the parts together.

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Assembling the head frame with clamps and glue.

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The print lines weren't that bad, so sanding would really make the parts nice and smooth.

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Making a mess in my desk.. I was wearing a dust / particle mask.

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The surface was getting smoother but, near the edges and details the sand paper wasn't enough.

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These cheap metal hand files, were a blessing with ABS it was super quick to make the surface smooth and great for the small details too.

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The printer wasn't well calibrated so had some issues with the lines all over the place, but all manageable.

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Looking good, but still could see some lines, but since I was going to try some filler primer I let it be.

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I tried to use a knifing putty to help out with the curves, but it wasn't great. The putty dried super fast I could barely spread it and then because I used so much it just gunked up the sand paper.

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In the end the results were actually better on the one without the putty, although I sanded a bit more of the surface.

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Sanding and using the putty to help smooth the seam lines.

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The metal hand files really came in handy for the parts with small details.

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Using the dreadful putty to hide the rough side of the parts where the supports were.

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It actually ended up working well if you didn't use much.. but still..

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These metal hand files had various shape and sizes, perfect for the detailed parts.
 

diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
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These metal hand files had various shape and sizes, perfect for the detailed parts.

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The blue parts were PLA and they definitely harder to sand to a smooth finish.

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More of the same printing and sanding!

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Midway through I switched to the orange ABS.

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Easier to sand, and easier to make a big mess too!

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Modifying the visor part so It would fit the small LCD's I ordered.

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Also making some new parts to be more screen accurate, like the antennas.

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Smallest workshop ever!

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Modeling the wire connections as these were not included.

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Using some reference pictures from the original models to design a stand for my head.

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Nothing is articulated, it was just to give it some story.

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Updating the camera pod to be a bit more screen accurate.

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Took the chance to print the new updated part in ABS.

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By this point I was so tired of sanding ahaha.. its really time consuming! Punished props YouTube videos kept me entertained though.

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Print and sand.. print and sand...

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Updated the speaker box to look like it was damaged, like it was towards the middle of the movie.

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Desk mess!

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These were hard to print, but in the end they looked nice!

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Workspace now with a panting booth :D
 

diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
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I used a rattle can filler primer to prime all the parts.

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I used a rattle can filler primer to prime all the parts.

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I used a rattle can filler primer to prime all the parts.

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I used a rattle can filler primer to prime all the parts.

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It looked quite smooth, only minor things to fix!

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It looked quite smooth, only minor things to fix!

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It looked quite smooth, only minor things to fix!

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Far from perfect, but with the final pain and weathering it would look okay!

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All primed and ready! Now waiting for electronics and and thinking about on how to paint it.
 

diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
And that's it for now! Waiting on the electronics and starting to think about the painting and how to do it!

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These are the paints I'm thinking of using. Tamiya Metallic Blue, Flat Aluminium, Gun Metal and Clear.

What I'm thinking is:
Paint a black base, then Flat aluminium and then the Metallic Blue. But wonder if the black base even needed?

Will try out on some plastic parts and see how it goes.
 

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diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks guys! Just spent some time today painting all the parts.

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Tamiya Flat Aluminium base coat.

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All the parts painted, just some small adjustments needed.

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Looks really slick.

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Still trying to figure out the best material for the visor and came across this on amazon, a plastic dust cover for fans in PC cases. It actually looks similar.

Next step need to do some glueing which I forgot, use some liquid latex to simulate some paint chipping and give the pieces their final coat of Tamiya Metallic Blue, Black, and Orage (for the ear).
 

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diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
J912Dje.jpg

Started painting some pieces with the Tamiya Metallic blue.. the color is not exactly the same as the movie.. but once I apply the weathering and grease up the model I think it will look the part.

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Used some liquid latex to mask before I applied the blue.. so then I could take it out and see the color bellow, and try to mimic some paint chipping. Technique I saw on the punished props YouTube channel!

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The pieces are not perfect.. but since I'm trying to get closed to chappie by the end of the movie, he was pretty banged up, so it will be ok.

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Removed the liquid latex, and it looks okay-is!

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Its quite brash right now.. but I think the weathering will tie everything together!

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Some of the parts already painted! I think that's it for blue and orange..

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I wasn't happy with the test orange test pieces.. but then painted the right ear.. and it looks better than expected!
 

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Uridium

Well-Known Member
Looking great, and as a fellow 'no workshop so i have to do everything in the man room' guy, I like your setup.

However in your first post, such great progress pictures but all i could think about was your poor dust covered keyboard!!! :eek:
 

diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Looking great, and as a fellow 'no workshop so i have to do everything in the man room' guy, I like your setup.

However in your first post, such great progress pictures but all i could think about was your poor dust covered keyboard!!! :eek:

Ahaha yeah.. took me a couple hours to clean everything up.. now that I'm done with the sanding.. (thank god)..
 

diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
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Finished with all the base paint so far! Now only small details.

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Using McMaster-Carr in Fusion360 to figure out how many screws will I need... and what size!

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Lots of different sizes and lengths! I will post the full list once I have the exact number..

And I still need to figure out all of the electronics..
 
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diogorsergio

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Side Model
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-----

Normal Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M1.6 x 0.35 mm Thread, 4 mm
Quantity: 8
Available: UK Socket Head Cap Screws ISO 4762 (DIN 912) M1.6 in A2 Stainless Steel - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Normal Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M2 x 0.4 mm Thread, 10 mm
Quantity: 18
Available: UK Socket Head Cap (Allen) Screw M2 x 10mm in A2 Stainless - ISO 4762 (DIN 912) - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Normal Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M3 x 0.5 mm Thread, 6 mm
Quantity: 8
Available: UK M3 Screw Unbrako Socket Head Cap (Allen) 6mm in Black - ISO 4762 (DIN 912) - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Low-Profile Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M3 x 0.5 mm Thread, 6 mm
Quantity: 4
Available: UK Low Socket Head Cap Screw M3 x 6mm in A2 Stainless - DIN 7984 - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Flat Head Screw, Hex Drive
M3 x 0.5 mm Thread, 10 mm
Quantity: 10
Available: UK Unbrako Socket Head Csk Screw Full Thread M3 x 10mm in Black Oxide - ISO 10642 (DIN 7991) - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Low-Profile Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M3 x 0.5 mm Thread, 16 mm
Quantity: 8 (These 4 for the fan, and 4 for the base mentioned bellow).
Available: UK Low Socket Head Cap Screw M3 x 16mm in A2 Stainless - DIN 7984 - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
YYBQZiL.png



M4 x 0.7 mm Thread, 20 mm
Low-Profile Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
Quantity: 10
Available: UK Low Socket Head Cap Screw M4 x 20mm in A2 Stainless - DIN 7984 - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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M4 x 0.7 mm Thread, 35 mm
Low-Profile Socket Head Screws, Hex Drive
Quantity: 4
Available: UK Low Socket Head Cap Screw M4 x 35mm in A2 Stainless - DIN 7984 - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Normal Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M5 x 0.8 mm Thread, 10 mm
Quantity: 4
Available: UK Unbrako Socket Head Cap Screws ISO 4762 M5mm in Black oxide high tensile steel class 12+ - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
vDcPmig.png
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Bottom Model
34JrGQE.png


Low-Profile Socket Head Screw, Hex Drive
M3 x 0.5 mm Thread, 16 mm
Quantity: 4 (Counted Above)
Available: UK Low Socket Head Cap Screw M3 x 16mm in A2 Stainless - DIN 7984 - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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Inside Model
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Nyloc Nut Type T (Thin) M3
Quantity: 4
Available: UK Nyloc Nut Type T (Thin) M3 in A2 Stainless - DIN 985 - Westfield Fasteners Ltd
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I don't know if this is too much detail, I'm having fun detailing the project! If its too much let me know and I will tone it down! :)
 
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