CC D7 Painting & why I hate the EPA pinheads!

[sapper36]

Suggestions?

The one on the left was prepped exactly the same as the one on the right.

Lefty was sprayed wiith the end of can #1

Righty was sprayed with a brand new can - #2

Righty started fizzing lke I sprayed it with soda pop!

So Suggestions?

I used Testors Gloss Gray BTW.

 

[hansicle]

Oh yeah. I work part time for a friend, at his shop doing odd jobs. One day he had me paint these statue bases. Primed them, then hit them with some Krylon semigloss black from a can. They started to pit really bad. I asked the shop manager for some help before I painted anymore. He told me I was spraying it on too heavy, so he tried... same thing. It was the paint.

I had to mist it on really light, with almost no coverage. Then let it dry, then another really light coat. It took me a freaking hour just to paint the thing.

 

[moffeaton]

Prime with Plastikote T-235 auto sandable primer. Then spray it with anything you want - it will stick to the Plastikote.

 

[sapper36]

See - I don't think it's a sticking or primer problem. The one on the left is fine! The paint itself was fizzing like an SOB when it hit the piece. I got a different can to try - If that doesnt work then I guess I'll resort to the airbrush. The fun part is I get to strip a resin piece again & take a chance on mangling it. Thanks again EPA!

 

[GKvfx]

Not a fan of Testors' Spray paints. Too many inconsistent results in the past. I use Tamiya Spray paints and have had stellar results. Good coverage, levels nicely, dries quick, and is a strong base for other types of paints.

As for removing this paint - pick up a bottle of Polly S Easy Lift Off (ELO). Coat the part with the ELO and let it sit overnight. (You don't need to let it soak in the stuff, just get a good coating of ELO on the part and let it sit overnight.) Should be able to scrub it off in the AM with a soft toothbrush and some ELO. It's safe for plastic and resin (unless you leave it in the sun or something). When the paint is removed, give it a good cleaning with soap and water. I've stripped off 30 year old gloss enamel paint off of old Aurora models with no problems whatsoever.

Gene

 

[Clerval]

Another vote for Tamiya, and if you must use any sort of spray can, be sure to warm the contents up a bit first, it definitely helps out with the paint flow.

 

[CaptCBoard]

Krylon used to be my friend. Now, Krylon isn't welcome in my shop. Which is too bad since their Satin Jade is the best color for the gray/green on the D7. I've stopped making built D7s because of this. In general, I really have bad luck with paint and when this problem with Krylon popped up I just had to stop!

Easy Off works really well on resin, but has quite an odor.

Scott

 

[sapper36]

Yup - Stripped & reprimed last night. Sigh.... Used Easy off - took 3 applications & a bit of sanding to get it stripped. Now I'm terrified to spray the hull at all. I really don't want too have to strip that sexy beast! I picked up some bottles of gloss gray & guess I'll fire up the old trusty air brush.

 

[Jedi Dade]

Here's what I'd do. soak the "button" in thinner then try again on a piece of scrap. If I got the same results I'd toss the can and get a new one.

For the record I always hit a piece of scrap on a new rattle can - or a fresh load on the airbrush. just to be safe...

Jedi Dade

 

[DarkKnight]

so whats the best spray paint option out there for the D-7

 

[Jedi Dade]

CC has a pretty extensive write up on his website about matching the colors. He has two recommendations one with Tamiya paint and one with rattle can. IIRC it was a testors basic gray color - can't remember the exact name and number, and Krylon Jade satin. For Tamiya I also can not remember the numbers but they were common fairly common colors.

Check out his atomic city web site. http://atomiccity.yuku.com/

Jedi Dade

 

[jlwshere]

Krylon used to be my friend. Now, Krylon isn't welcome in my shop. Which is too bad since their Satin Jade is the best color for the gray/green on the D7. I've stopped making built D7s because of this. In general, I really have bad luck with paint and when this problem with Krylon popped up I just had to stop!

Easy Off works really well on resin, but has quite an odor.

Scott

Can Satin Jade be used in an airbrush?

 

[SD Studios]

Scott...Ya know I love ya, right?

But I am gonna have to kind of...um...disagree with you there.

I have a can of the Krylon Jade and it is GREEN. I mean REEEEALY green. I have been studying the D-7 colors (like many of you) for years and while we will probably never pin it down, I think that Krylon "Honeydew" is a closer match for the main green on the D-7. (I used a Tamiya dark gray on the topsides). I LOOOOVE Tamiya spray paints!!!! Anyway...

As I am sure you are aware, my ex-partner, Rick, at Unobtainium owned one of the original D-7 filming models and I spent a summer with it in his spare bedroom. Good times. (What happens in LA STAYS in LA). :lol

Anyway, I remember it was definitely green, but not the "garish" Krylon Jade green.

Now, it could have been repainted when I saw it. And it is possible that he owned a fake? I have read the history many times, so I am aware the models were altered. And I could certainly be wrong here...It wouldn't be the first time...But...

I did two build-ups of D-7 kits and IMO, I just think that the Honeydew color is more of a nice, subtle green-gray and looks better in-person. It is far less "saturated" than the dark-grass-green-Jade and makes the model look less toy-like, and closer to the grayish, washed-out colors that we see when the D-7 is on-screen.

Having been an art-major in school, I am somewhat sensitive to color/scale and even IF the original model was painted something like the Jade color, it would drive me nuts to walk past a plant-colored D-7 every day in my shop.

I sprayed two models with Krylon Honeydew (about 6 or 7 coats each, over gray primer, it is somewhat translucent) and I had NO problem with it at all.

Just my $0.02

Now, don't get me started on Krylon "satin black". :angry

 

[CaptCBoard]

Steve-- First, I kinda doubt your ex-partner had an original D7. There were only two made. One resides in the Smithsonian, the other has been auctioned several times over the past 20 years for absolutely tons of money. The last time was in a Profiles in History auction where really nice photos of it were published in the catalog. The way to tell for sure if he had an original is if it had a crack in the front of the right wing. This is where the wood had delaminated. What he probably had was one of the castings made from the Phase II molds of the Smithsonian model.

The colors of the model can not really be known without actually having the real model to reference. The photos in the Profiles catalog, which are all over the internet, are pretty good reference because they go to a lot of trouble to get the color in the photos printed accurately.

My opinion is the Krylon Satin Jade is closer to what is seen in those photos than the Honeydew. By your description of how green the paint you are using, I have to think you have the wrong color. The Krylon product number is 53509 for Satin Jade. This stuff also covers really nicely. Using paint these days really has to be done according to the instructions on the can, though. Recoat time actually means something these days!

Scott

 

[SD Studios]

Yah, I am just not sure on the D7's authenticity. It was owned by Rick Ceigel around 1999-2000 until he re-sold it a few years later.

Rick had come into some money at some point, and had spent HUNDREDS of thousands of dollars on flown NASA hardware and models over the years. Unfortunately, by the time we started Unobtainium, he was literally...broke. (But he lived in a million-dollar house and had a half-million worth of toys in it.) :confused

I liked to play with all of the amazing NASA gadgets he had. He had a "back-up" thruster Joystick control that was INSANE. It had a about million moving parts. Absolutely incredible 1960's tech. He also had a flown (empty) briefcase full of moon dust. I was always fascinated by that.

He told me what he paid for the D7 model, but I just can't remember. It was a CRAZY amount. Like $60k PLUS?

If it was a replica, it was a REALLY good one. It was wood and the paint looked old and crazed and like it had been handled for a long while.

I just don't know... I lost the pics a long time ago.

On the green color... I have a can of Krylon Satin Jade. Yup. I just don't see it being that green. Is it possible? Sure, I will concede that point, as nobody seems to know for certain, but the Jade looks too dark and GREEN to my eye. To each his own.

Steve-- First, I kinda doubt your ex-partner had an original D7. There were only two made. One resides in the Smithsonian, the other has been auctioned several times over the past 20 years for absolutely tons of money. The last time was in a Profiles in History auction where really nice photos of it were published in the catalog. The way to tell for sure if he had an original is if it had a crack in the front of the right wing. This is where the wood had delaminated. What he probably had was one of the castings made from the Phase II molds of the Smithsonian model.

The colors of the model can not really be known without actually having the real model to reference. The photos in the Profiles catalog, which are all over the internet, are pretty good reference because they go to a lot of trouble to get the color in the photos printed accurately.

My opinion is the Krylon Satin Jade is closer to what is seen in those photos than the Honeydew. By your description of how green the paint you are using, I have to think you have the wrong color. The Krylon product number is 53509 for Satin Jade. This stuff also covers really nicely. Using paint these days really has to be done according to the instructions on the can, though. Recoat time actually means something these days!

Scott