Careful Molding Question.

GQ Customs

Active Member
OK -

I'm going to be molding this suit and I'm looking for suggestions as far as how to do so SAFELY.

http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11737&d=1236222735

It was painted almost 14 years ago and as you can see, especially in the shoulder areas - there is a bit of paint wear. My biggest fear is molding it and when I remove the mold - all the paint has come along for the ride.

So basically, I'm looking for the best way to mold this and leave the original untouched with no damage.

Thanks guys,
-Kyle
 
C'mon - I find it very hard to believe that with all the talent and casting that goes on here, nobody has any words of wisdom?
 
What materials am I seeing in that photo? Latex? Foam latex?

If latex, it would have shrunk a bit from its original size. If you were to mold it and cast another in latex, it would be even smaller.

My thought on this would be to not do it, as I see it as hurting the original. Better to use it as a reference, and sculpt a new one.

If you were to use a release and mold in silicone RTV, you might not damage the paint, but will have a mold that you can't use with latex. I could be wrong here, but I don't think you can cast latex into a silicone mold.

Hence, the next step would to be to cast a new master, and subsequently make a new mold into which you could cast latex.

The best person to comment here would be board member Doody, as he is the resident foam latex expert.
 
If you make a silicone mold of it you could cast it in urethane. What you're talking about doing is a lot of work and a lot of money. It's not for someone with little experience. Difficult to mold a foam latex piece from my understanding. I think I would either talk to a professional or just not do it.
 
My intentions were in fact to mold the suit, cast a new master in resin, repair any and all blemishes, and go from there. I was only stuck on what medium to use for step number one. Hopefully he will chime in with his 2 cents.
 
Ive had to make molds out of painted rubber castings where the paint has cracked, orange peeled and chipped... and it will all come out in the mold as thats the surface. You could coat it with Vasaline but even that would leave the original in an altered state with zero guarantee against any damages. You just have to look at it realistically and accept the original will not come out the same way it went in. It was made to do a single job and that job happened 14 years ago. Weight the costs and risk then ask yourself if its worth it?
 
C'mon - I find it very hard to believe that with all the talent and casting that goes on here, nobody has any words of wisdom?


I would agree with the sentiments posted here - very difficult project.

Though I'm not a molding/casting expert, I'm not certain I'ver ever heard of a foam latex suit of this type being molded. The inherent challenges (at least to me) seem almost too numerous to list (how will the suit maintain its shape under the weight of the silicon?)...

Also - know thy audience - at least one industry professional has already responded here...
 
I am not someone of little experience. I have been casting and molding for quite some time. Molding it will not be an issue for me. I was looking for input as far as someone doing something along the same lines and their experience and advice as to keeping the paint intact.
 
Thanks for all the replies thus far. I guess resculpting is the best option. Shouldn't be too hard with the original to work with. Pardon my ignorance, but I was curious as to who the industry professional is that chimed in?:$ I haven't been able to get to know everyone in the short time I've been here and everyone that posted referred me to a professional instead of saying I am one.

Last question - alginate?

-Kyle
 
Alginate should work and will have a lower chance of taking the paint off than with silicone but it does limit the materials you can mould the new master in.
 
This is over simplified for brevity, but it'll work.

1. Stuff the suit to make it rigid, or mount it on a neutral pose mannequin.

2. Spray the entire suit with dish soap, through an airbrush, in every nook and cranny and allow to dry to a waxy consistency.

3. Mold as you would for a normal, high detail body cast, in ultracal 30 or other high quality dental stone.

4. When the Ultracal is fully set (overnight would be good), set up a fan style lawn sprinkler to spray over the entire thing, and rotate it every 2 hours. Do this for at least 4 - 6 hours on each side. What you're wanting to do is completely saturate the ultracal with water and re-liquify the soap, so that your original piece will fall right out w/o sticking. This is called "floating" the piece out of the mold. It's normally done to remove a clay sculpt from the ultracal with minimal hassle and scrubbing, but I can't see why it wouldn't work with this too. Just be super careful when you separate the ultracal- I'd be more worried about prying tools doing some damage than anything else.

Good luck!

-Sarge
 
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