Captain America Armor Variant WIP (Pic Heavy)

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hi Everyone!

So, for anyone who was following my last thread, I'm now working on an armored variant of that costume because, apparently, I just can't leave well enough alone. ;)

I'm using the below artwork as reference and want this one to be an original "mash-up" of some of the elements I like from all the various sources and movie versions. The kneeling reference is from the "Living Legend" TPB, the armored rendering is by Guy Bourraine Jr and I do not have a source on the line art. If anyone knows where this originates, please let me know and I'll add a credit here.

I also have to give a shout out to sparton110 for his awesome build and it made me want to do an armored version for myself.


CAPALL2013002.jpg
IMG_0227-193x300.jpg
IMG_0512-270x300.jpg


The base costume will be very similar to the last one, with some color and torso style changes, and we'll come to that soon. First, I needed to get started on the armor pieces. I'm mix-and-matching some of the templates from two other armor files that I have (Iron Man Mk VI and N7) and working some of it up from scratch. The first thing I needed to come up with was the template for the chest. I began this in poster board. I made this template by making a copy of my Old Republic chest (based on N7 templates) and splicing the brace from the IM Mk VI onto it to create the collar area and the back of the neck. The backpack is from the N7 template.


chest-paper-front-300x295.jpg
chest-paper-back-249x300.jpg


Once I had the basic shapes and proportions down, it was time to start cutting some foam. The base for all the armor will be 12mm (~1/2") foam floor mats purchased from Lowe's. I will also be using 2mm "foamie" sheets as well as 6mm craft foam sheets, both purchased at Michael's.

Two things that I always like to do when making armor from foam:

1. Use the heat gun to pre-shape curved pieces. You can really cut down on the difficulty of gluing and get much cleaner seams if the pieces are already shaped. It's easy to do and will save a lot of time and effort later in the process.


heat-shape-1.jpg


2. Round off the edges. I use a drum sander attachment for my electric drill to round off and smooth the cut edges of the foam. This can help even out slightly uneven cuts and also gives the edges a nice finish. Once finished sanding, just run your heat gun around the edges to smooth and seal them. This pro-tip comes to you thanks to Bill Doran at Punished Props - check out his amazing books and the rest of his site.

sanding-edges.jpg


Here's the chest piece assembled. The lines on the front are the placement lines for the detail pieces that will go on later.


chest-back-1.jpg
chest-front-1.jpg


The details for the chest piece were cut from 2mm foam and contact cemented in place. The bevels are then carefully cut and peeled away. I created a place-holder star from a scrap of foam and tacked it on so that I could always see it in scale. The actual star will be a resin cast.

chest-front-2.jpg


Next, I assembled the backpack. If it looks familiar, that's because it's based on the template for the Mass Effect N7 armor. However, this one will end up being given an much different treatment. I made the center first and added the star motif by cutting the star and circle out of 2mm foam and contact cementing all the layers together.

The great things about making detail pieces like this out of 2mm foam are: it's really easy to cut accurately and smoothly, even if you have 3 layers it shapes around curves really well and it coats and finishes very nicely.

backpack-1.jpg


Once that was in place, I made the side "pods". For the cut out piece in the pods, I thought it would look cool if they were flush at the center and then dipped down at the ends. When the whole thing is finished, I think this will give it a little more sculptural detail and interest and keep it from getting too angular and "stacked".


backpack-3.jpg


Here's how the backpack looks up against the back.

backpack-4.jpg


I went around in a few circles on attaching the pack and decided that I didn't want it to be permanent and fused to the chest piece, but (since I really like the harness look on so many of the Cap versions - like the new movies and the Living Legend art) I wanted it to be a separate piece that's held on by a harness. So, naturally, that needs a template. The template is simply made out of poster board at the right curves to fit over the chest.

harness-template-1.jpg
harness-template-2.jpg
harness-template-3.jpg


I am at a crossroads on how I want to do this. I'm torn between a more classic "leather" look like the one I recently made:

harness-2.jpg


Or creating this new one with a base of red faux that I just bought and making the inner band of the blue cordura. So, the blue all blends but there's a pop of red stripes at the edges of the harness straps. Also, that leads to a decision on silver or black hardware... So many choices...

swatches.jpg


But, that's a bridge I can cross later. In the meantime, I wanted to draft out the shoulders. I did this one by hand with just some poster board and got the scale and shape I wanted. Here's the base in the foam.

shoulder-1.jpg


I then decided to carry the "stealth" stripes motif out to the shoulders. However, I decided to do a more classic Commander Rogers star-and-circle motif rather than the flag and patch from the stealth suit. I made all the details for the shoulders out of the same 2mm and contact cement.

shoulder-2.jpg
shoulder-3.jpg


So, here's the upper armor so far:

upper-armor-1.jpg
upper-armor-2.jpg
upper-armor-3.jpg


The jacket and torso for this version will also be getting a whole new treatment and I'll be covering part of that next. As for the armor, next up is finishing all the detail application, sealing the seams and (if it's not too cold) Plasti Dip and paint!

Stay tuned!



CAPALL2013002.jpg


IMG_0227-193x300.jpg


IMG_0512-270x300.jpg


chest-paper-front-300x295.jpg


chest-paper-back-249x300.jpg


heat-shape-1.jpg


sanding-edges.jpg


chest-back-1.jpg


chest-front-1.jpg


chest-front-2.jpg


backpack-1.jpg


backpack-3.jpg


backpack-4.jpg


harness-template-1.jpg


harness-template-2.jpg


harness-template-3.jpg


harness-2.jpg


swatches.jpg


shoulder-1.jpg


shoulder-2.jpg


shoulder-3.jpg


upper-armor-1.jpg


upper-armor-2.jpg


upper-armor-3.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Subbed, great idea for a suit and I am interested to see your work with foam, if its like your work with the cordura we're in for a treat. I look forward to seeing the end product and how you tackle the helmet.
 

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Subbed, great idea for a suit and I am interested to see your work with foam, if its like your work with the cordura we're in for a treat. I look forward to seeing the end product and how you tackle the helmet.
Thanks! It's coming along and I'm pleased so far. Hopefully it won't go sideways. :)

As to the helmet, I like this version (again, I was sent this image a while ago and I can't remember where it came from. If anyone knows who the artist is, I'm happy to credit them here). I think this will be my main inspiration and I'll work out the details when I get to it. I know right now I want a more classic eye shape - the "goggle" look really doesn't do anything for me. I'm also not sure about the shape of the ears - I know they need to be covered, but I'm going to need to think on the shape. I also want to add some dimension to the "A" and especially the wings rather than just the stenciled versions.

helmet-art.jpg

To build it, I'll end be using JFCustom's speed pepping file for the basic shape. Coincidentally, his thread appeard just above mine this morning so I didn't have to hunt it down - you can see it in detail and get the file here: http://www.therpf.com/f78/captain-americas-helmet-speed-peping-foam-file-152770/.

helmet-pep-e1417362542779.png

My plan, however is to adjust all those cuts out by cutting the pieces out of solid 6mm, putting them in the oven for a bit, shaping them over my head form and trimming as necessary. That way, I'll be able to eliminate all the seams except the main ones on the side, which I want to use as detail anyway. Then, I can build up all the other details from there.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ElFazio

New Member
Impressive. I offer my congratulations.. and my thanks, because inspired by your previous awesome project i started out my first costume, AOU captain =)
 

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Impressive. I offer my congratulations.. and my thanks, because inspired by your previous awesome project i started out my first costume, AOU captain =)
Awesome! If you start a thread, post a link so we can follow it. :cool

- - - Updated - - -

Hey guys! Short update today, some some new stuff has happened...

I decided to go ahead and get the armor pieces coated. Now, everyone has their own opinion about Plasti-Dip - and here's mine:
First, I always use the brush on and never the rattle cans. In my opinion, the rattle cans are just too unpredictable and, even though they are the same product, the spray and brush on don't really seem to behave the same way. There are a couple of things to keep in mind with the brush on, however.Once you pop the can, it does have a somewhat limited shelf life. I would recommend that you always have several pieces prepped to coat all at once and set aside enough time to do multiple coats in one session. It cures pretty quickly (depending on the weather) and, if you're coating 3 or 4 pieces at the same time, by the time you've done them all, it'll be time to go back and start again on another coat. I always also keep a little bowl of Naphtha nearby. This way, you can add some to the PD and stir it if it starts to set up an get gummy in the tray and you can also dip your brush in the Naphtha and brush it lightly over the pieces as they cure to smooth out any little clumps or blobs.

naphtha-300x300.jpg


If it gets thick in the can, it's not completely useless, but it is trickier to use and may not end up as nice as a 'fresh' can. You can thin it down with Naphtha and stir it with a chopstick or small paint stirrer. Just be sure to get it thinned evenly or it will go on clumpy.The brushes I use come in a 3-pack at Lowe's for about $8. You don't want cheap ones that will shed bristles into the coats and you don't want pricey ones because you're (well I do anyway) pretty much going to burn a brush in each coating session - another reason it's good to to a lot of pieces all at once. You also want to make sure that the brush glides smoothly at all times. If you feel any pull on the brush while coating, dip it into the Naphtha to keep things from getting gummy.Here's what it looks like after two thin coats on foam that was only pre-sealed with a heat gun.

plasti-texture-1.jpg


A glass-smooth texture is pretty difficult with PD, but I like the pieces to have a little texture. I like to weather my pieces with the paint job and the slight texture takes the paint better (in my opinion). Here's a detail shot of my Old Republic armor chest. This was finished using this same method, then painted, scarred with a dremel, Mod Podged, painted and coated with DuraClear (more on Mod Podge and DuraClear later).

old-republic-detail.jpg


Of course, if you want to get really crazy with it, you can check out this site, which sells professional paint sprayer kits that are made for PD. For real!

new-pds-pro-car-kit-e1417454303238.jpg


Here are the backpack and shoulder at this point. I need to work on the seams and some gaps (more on that later) and add another couple of coats of PD. So far, so good.

backpack-6.jpg
shoulder-4.jpg


I also began on the new version of the jacket. This one will have silver biceps and blue forearms. I used up most of my work time yesterday with coating, so this sleeve is not finished and is only pinned up the to jacket, but you can get the idea.

new-jacket-1.jpg


Here's a quick image of the new jacket so far with the armor added on.

upper-armor-4.jpg


More to come, so stay tuned!


naphtha-300x300.jpg


plasti-texture-1.jpg


old-republic-detail.jpg


new-pds-pro-car-kit-e1417454303238.jpg


backpack-6.jpg


shoulder-4.jpg


new-jacket-1.jpg


upper-armor-4.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

scruggs1134

New Member
LOVE this, would you be willing to mock up some foam templates to send around, i would love to build this as im sure other people would as well. or at least give a more detailed account as to what parts came off of other designs. Thanks
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
LOVE this, would you be willing to mock up some foam templates to send around, i would love to build this as im sure other people would as well. or at least give a more detailed account as to what parts came off of other designs. Thanks
I have kept the posterboard templates and was planning to make them into a PDF and will post it here with some details on how to put it together. Keep in mind, though, that it's not going to be a pep file so it's not going to be scalable. If you need to resize it, you'll have to do it the old fashioned way. :)

- - - Updated - - -

Still good for February?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yep! Looking forward to it :)
 

SMP Designs

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Hey guys! The holidays are crazy this year, but I have a small update on the suit. I was able to get the torso hammered out last week and am just getting a chance to post it. So, here we go...

I like the style of the Bourraine torso and the way it goes with the armor.

torso-concept.jpg


However, I wanted the stripes to be more prominent, so I began with a muslin blank of the torso and drew on the lines that I wanted and marked them by color.

torso-style-lines.jpg


The muslin blank was then cut apart to create the pattern for the new torso and I began cutting the pieces.

torso-pattern.jpg
torso-pieces.jpg


To keep with the armored style, I decided to use red faux leather, the silver from the sleeves and some blue metallic vinyl that I had left over from a Nova Prime project a couple of years ago. I began at the front and worked my way from top to bottom assembling the stripes. Once the front was complete, I finished the back.

torso-assembly-1.jpg
torso-assembly-2.jpg


After the torso was built, it was lined with muslin, the spandex top (that fits under the jacket), the bottom edging and zipper were installed.

torso-1.jpg
torso-2.jpg


Here are some images of the torso with the jacket and then with the armor chest added for a look at how it's all coming together so far.

upper-body-front.jpg
upper-body-back.jpg
upper-armor-5.jpg


Next I'll begin on the harness for the backpack and the segmented neck. Stay tuned!


torso-concept.jpg


torso-style-lines.jpg


torso-pattern.jpg


torso-pieces.jpg


torso-assembly-1.jpg


torso-assembly-2.jpg


torso-1.jpg


torso-2.jpg


upper-body-front.jpg


upper-body-back.jpg


upper-armor-5.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top