Building the Tie Bomber

Hey people. I too am trying to build a tie bomber and was wondering if one of you fine gentlemen would help out a newbie by listing all of the parts where to find them on this bomber?
much thanks in advance..
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 8 2006, 04:42 PM) [snapback]1316130[/snapback]</div>
Hey people. I too am trying to build a tie bomber and was wondering if one of you fine gentlemen would help out a newbie by listing all of the parts where to find them on this bomber?
much thanks in advance..
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Just a quick list of all the kits from this discussion:

Tamiya 1/35 M3 Lee
Airfix SATURN V kits - 1:144 scale
Airfix 1/24 Harrier GR MK1 A
Tamiya 20mm FLAKVIERLINGS - 1:35 scale
Tamiya German 20mm Flak38 MIT Sd.Ah.51
Tamiya GERMAN FLAK 88 - 1:35 scale
Tamiya Hanomag Sdkfz 251/1- 1:35 scale
Tamiya's 1/700 Yamato # 31105
Tamiya's 1/700 Rodney
Hasagawa Morser Karl 1:72 scale
Hasagawa Leopold Rail Gun 1:72 scale
AMT/ERTL DARTH VADER'S TIE FIGHTER -
2-inch Hemisphere
2-inch Flat Dish
1-foot long section of 1/2" tube
1-foot long section of 2" tube
Various pieces of strip and tube styrene
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Barnstormer @ Sep 8 2006, 02:53 PM) [snapback]1315908[/snapback]</div>
Hmmm, yeah - my first thought on this back when I started was to begin with the base tube and then laminate layers of sheet onto it to get the successive steps. The 1" outer diameter should be right - that's based on pretty clear dimensions scaled to the Vader wing (unless my outer-most ring is too thick, I suppose, but it matches the photos.)

The assumption that the body is based on 2" tubes goes way back to the very earliest discussion of the topic - I've never personally checked those figures against reference materials, perhaps I'll sanity-check the 2" tubes against some of the kit parts and see if they'll really fit together as expected.

BTW, I think the conclusion drawn earlier in this thread was that 1/2" wasn't big enough for the cross-support, and that 5/8" is more what's been typically used. That again requires ordering plastruct, or using brass tube (my Ace carries 5/8 in brass and I've got a few on hand.)

If the body is actually a size smaller than it would make sense to go down to 1/2" for the wing support as well - again, I'll experiment a bit this weekend and see what conclusion I draw.

I've got a pair of railgun frames cut down for the top and bottom of the pilot's fuselage and I've got a 2" dome cut for the front window, it should be possible to determine if the kit parts fit correctly on the 2" diameter or not (although a few people on the thread have built bombers, I doubt that this oversight would really have stood this long.)

I can cut down a pair of the railgun frames for the front and back of the wing-strut, too, and they'll either fit a 1/2" piece of tube or not, it should be pretty clear by then what the sizes need to be.



...Hmm, and I wonder, 1/16 wall thickness actually seems right - if we need to get from 1" to 5/8", and there are three steps if I'm remembering correctly, then we need to lose a total of 3/8" in total diameter, and a 1/16" wall thickness will shed 1/8" per step (2 x 1/16) which actually seems to add up right...? Again, bears photo checking It'll be a productive weekend...
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window_frame.jpg


That is the window frame on a 2" Hemisphere, which looks right. I think that the 2" tube is correct. I got a small piece of 1/2" PVC that actually has a 5/8" outside diameter, and it looks too small. I have another piece of PVC that has a 7/8" OD and it looks about right. Maybe it's just my eyes playing tricks on me. Remember too that the steps on the wing connectors are not all the same. The middle one looks very thin, and the one to the outside of that looks to be a bit thicker.
 
Thanks for the info. I have just gotten my 2" and 5/8" tubing from plastruct and all of the kits except the harrier and the saturn V, I hope i can start on it soon.
Does any one know how many scribed circles or lines i need? and what are the spacing of the lines?
Thanks, Jerry
 
I scaled the most straight-on photos I could find and I alos feel confident that 2" is the right diameter for the body tubes. The next time I can work on the project I'll look at the various sections of the wing struts.

Does the middle step on the wing joint seem slightly tapered rather than perfectly cylindrical?
 
On the behind the magic CD there is a TB with the wing struts on and it is straight brass tubing, and the middle is just a square block.
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 13 2006, 06:18 AM) [snapback]1319078[/snapback]</div>
On the behind the magic CD there is a TB with the wing struts on and it is straight brass tubing, and the middle is just a square block.
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Can you get a screen grab to post?

Oh... is it before they put the "stepped" sections on?
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 16 2006, 10:56 PM) [snapback]1321531[/snapback]</div>
Im glad that helped, I havent even started building mine.
How far away is the tube from the front edge supposed to be?
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Mine is at 1/4" (well, to be precise, 13/50ths of an inch, or 0.260" - it came out that way because of my CAD drawings).
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Flintlock @ Sep 16 2006, 11:07 PM) [snapback]1321536[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 16 2006, 10:56 PM) [snapback]1321531[/snapback]
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Im glad that helped, I havent even started building mine.
How far away is the tube from the front edge supposed to be?
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Mine is at 1/4" (well, to be precise, 13/50ths of an inch, or 0.260" - it came out that way because of my CAD drawings).
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Ummm... I messed up. My apologies. The brass tube is back from the front edge of the larger tubes 9/16". The 1/4" is from the front edge of the larger tubes to the front of the middle box. I just figured out how to make my CAD program display the correct grid units. I am unstoppable now. :lol
 
great. thanks.
Now another stupid question, i know that there are 12 lines that need to be scribed, how far from the edge do you start these lines?
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 20 2006, 04:52 PM) [snapback]1323471[/snapback]</div>
great. thanks.
Now another stupid question, i know that there are 12 lines that need to be scribed, how far from the edge do you start these lines?
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I'm not sure how far back they start, but that section of circumscribed lines is centered on the cross-tube. There are also other scribed panel lines and rivet holes on the body tubes.
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Flintlock @ Sep 17 2006, 01:45 AM) [snapback]1321504[/snapback]</div>
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 13 2006, 05:09 PM) [snapback]1319491[/snapback]
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I have a pic of both before and after i hope its good.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/Stipp08/09-13-22.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v602/Stipp08/09-13-12.jpg
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Thanks, Apophis. Those will help...

Also, thanks to you, barnstormer. I think the 5/8" Brass does the trick:

DSC00116.JPG


I wish I had a workshop with a table saw and a drill press - I'm about 0.020" out of square...
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Hey flint, what were the numbers for the 2"hemisphere and the 2" flat dish? I was looking in my Plastruct catalog and i only found the hemi but not the dish.
 
This just in from the silly question dept... how are you scribing the main tube segments? It's one of the last of the things I have to tackle to then start getting all of the sub-assemblies together... I sweated the bomb tube front opening less than the grooves...
 
<div class='quotetop'>(Apophis @ Sep 22 2006, 06:29 PM) [snapback]1324698[/snapback]</div>
Hey flint, what were the numbers for the 2"hemisphere and the 2" flat dish? I was looking in my Plastruct catalog and i only found the hemi but not the dish.
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The Hemisphere is VHH-200, and the Dish is VHD-200. They also come in ABS, but you'd have to look at the catalog to see how to order the ABS instead of the Acrylic. The flat dish is NOT the elliptical dish. If you need to, you can download their current catalog from their website.

<div class='quotetop'>(Clerval @ Sep 22 2006, 08:56 PM) [snapback]1324752[/snapback]</div>
This just in from the silly question dept... how are you scribing the main tube segments? It's one of the last of the things I have to tackle to then start getting all of the sub-assemblies together... I sweated the bomb tube front opening less than the grooves...
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Go to Wal Mart or Staples and buy some tape for those handheld label makers, mark your lines (whether they be the corrugated section lines or panel lines), and use a scribing tool with your label tape as a straightedge that can be wrapped around. This has to be the tape that is thicker and is "stamped" to make the label, not the tape for the label makers that just print the letters on.
 
Forgive me... it is not the piece. I should have looked closer before I posted. I truly do not know what it is.
 
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