Building The Death Star - PRODUCTION

[Jedifyfe]

So are you using this as a guide for size reference of the blocks and lines? I think that is a brilliant idea and it should work perfectly for that.


Brad

 

[PHArchivist]

So are you using this as a guide for size reference of the blocks and lines? I think that is a brilliant idea and it should work perfectly for that.


Brad

Brad, first - take a moment and go back and review my last posts as I've edited and added to them.

But to answer the question directly, I'm seriously thinking about using this method for the final surface finish.

 

[Jedifyfe]

I see. Got it. I would say go for it and see how it looks after, say, a 1/4 of it is completed. I think you'll get a really good idea if you'll like it or not at that point.

Do you think that this method was used on any of the original DS?

Brad

 

[vaderdarth]

neat idea Rob, but I think it will present problems with the light pinholes. a drill would likely make it pull away from the surface due to it wrapping around the bit. That's only a theory my friend.

Dave

 

[PHArchivist]

I would say go for it and see how it looks after, say, a 1/4 of it is completed.

Profoundly wise advice. In fact, when playing out all the "What ifs..." (in terms of drawbacks to this approach), I concluded that the worst case scenario is that I get about half way in (too far to turn back) and realize it just ain't workin'..! THAT would suck big time.

The concept of testing on a small scale (like continuing up the far edge where I've started my test) may help mitigate this.

Do you think that this method was used on any of the original DS?

I certainly would not be surprised.

Problem is, unless we get word from Ralph McQuarrie (and that means accurate "word"), we'll never know. Well, or unless I can physically touch the model or open an informed dialogue with Gus Lopez.

We have a brethren member who has in-roads to Mr. McQuarrie, but so far the connection has yet to be made. But I beleive this member mentioned that in past interactions with RM, it was mentioned they did use colored paper on the finish.

However, when analyzing the surface of the original model today, its possible to clearly make out physical relief in certain areas (score lines or seam lines, and edges). But there is no apparent relief at the borders of the speckle-to-grey.

So its really hard to judge.

 

[PHArchivist]

neat idea Rob, but I think it will present problems with the light pinholes. a drill would likely make it pull away from the surface due to it wrapping around the bit. That's only a theory my friend.

Dave

Totally. My biggest fear. Though easy enough to test out. Keep in mind the drill bit would likely be .5mm diameter at the most. But still, tearing and pulling would really screw things up.

 

[Treadwell]

That's a great solution! Aside from the drill bit thing, my only concern would be that if you're repeating a speckle pattern, that it might be detectable.

 

[vaderdarth]

You know you could always do variations too, by overspraying with the base color to "lighten up" the contrast in some sections. That would hide a repeating pattern of speckles.

As for the drilling thru it, I'd do a few test drills on a piece stuck to something else and see what happens. May work like a charm!!!

Dave

 

[PHArchivist]

That's a great solution! Aside from the drill bit thing, my only concern would be that if you're repeating a speckle pattern, that it might be detectable.

Jay you're dead right, but I may have this solved...

I had about three or four shots of the original that had a clear area of speckle (no pen lines, gaps or other variations.

At first (using ACDSee; I don't have Photoshop:unsure), I selected the largest area I could (for efficiency), copied it, and pasted it sequentially across the image pane.

But yes, the repeated pattern became evident, not because the speckling itself had a pattern, but due to light variation from the camera flash within the selected area. It would get darker as the model surface curved away.

So on the final image I worked with, I selected a much smaller area, clear and clean, and with minimal if any light/color variation. I pasted this 15-20 times to form a larger, mostly pattern-free rectangle, then selected and copied this larger rectangle. At that point, I filled the entire image pane with the large rectangle, overlapping and rotating it as I went.

Finally, with the entire screen covered, there was still minimal pattern elements visible, so I took the smallest section (that I first started with) and pasted it randomly where I saw signs of a repeating pattern.

So at this point, I did manage to acheive a relatively pattern-free image of solid speckle.

 

[PHArchivist]

Also, if and when I apply it to the replica, I can also rotate if necessary, and there will be varying sizes of cut-outs.

And there will additional visual elements (pencil and pen marks galore, areas of silver, etcetera) to break it up.

 

[PHArchivist]

You know, the deformations on the top edge may be attributable to merely dust or imperfect paint on the surface.

Also, a sharp #11 exacto blade could slice through that, allowing it to lay down nicely, sealed in with a clear coat.

And, I did not mention that - though you CAN see an edge here - the material it is printed on is thinner than standard paper (but thicker than water-slide decals). A clear coat might help smooth over the edge just a hair, but probably would not make a visual difference.

 

[PHArchivist]

You know you could always do variations too, by overspraying with the base color to "lighten up" the contrast in some sections. That would hide a repeating pattern of speckles.

As for the drilling thru it, I'd do a few test drills on a piece stuck to something else and see what happens. May work like a charm!!!

Dave

Dave remember - I can also adjust the color/brightness in the computer before even printing! Another accollade for this method...

I'll test the drilling this afternoon.

 

[vaderdarth]

good point. I hope it doesn't form airbubbles under the stickers, Vinyl is bad about that on painted surfaces......something about the paint degassing which creates a bubble in a vinyl sticker. If it's a paper one, however that might not occur.

 

[PHArchivist]

good point. I hope it doesn't form airbubbles under the stickers, Vinyl is bad about that on painted surfaces......something about the paint degassing which creates a bubble in a vinyl sticker. If it's a paper one, however that might not occur.

And I'll be sanding the surface to 1,000 grit prior to applying, which should reduce any surface variation, adn lend towards better adhesion.

 

[feek61]

Actually, what this is is a test...

And Feek, contact paper is close.

I figured since I now have hi-res shots of the surface of the original, I could make "texture maps". I copied and pasted clear areas of speckle on the shots of the original, and just repeated until I had a full image of just plain speckle off the original.

I printed this out on Avery brand self-adhesive clear label sheets, and stuck a block of it on the model.

So...

What you're looking at is an applique afterall. The block in the image I posted represents about the largest sized block of speckle found on the Death Star. The self-adhesive clear label sheets adhered to the compound curves fairly well. Though if you look close at the image, you can see some deviation on the edges.

But, a few things...

First; this block is larger than I'd actually be doing on the model. All the sections to be used on the model would be more narrow, or shorter, and thus should conform to the compound curves much better.

Second, this area on the model was neither sanded or cleaned prior to me laying down the test section, so that may be playing a negative role regarding the adhision.

Third, this block was cut with 90-degree angles; no curvature at the top or bottom edges, and no angling in of the side eges.

Finally, there is no flat clear coat sealing it over.

Sheer genius!! Yes, control is the key and you are not going to get much better. Not to mention the fact that in essence you have part of the original on yours. Pretty cool!

Will

 

[MsngPcs]

Stick some of it on some scrap and drill through it. Then you will know if it's worth your time to persue this method.

 

[PHArchivist]

Stick some of it on some scrap and drill through it. Then you will know if it's worth your time to persue this method.

Will be doing so within the hour...

 

[PHArchivist]

Though I wonder...

If this method is viable, how much more challenging would it be to have custom water-slide decals made, and would they conform to the compound curves even better?

 

[tgreco]

getting them printed... not so bad
but it will probably get pricey fast

you have 2 choices, transparent, or on a white background

I guess the thing you have to watch out for is, how easy will it be to drill through them without tearing

so definitely test the method beforehand

 

[vistaVision]

Hi Rob,

This is a great idea! I've seen some large model railroad buildings that were entirely covered with brick detail decals. Totally fooled the eye from inches away.

You can print your own water-slide decals, 8.5x11 inch "paper" for your inkjet or laser printer is available: http://www.decalpaper.com

You'll need a gallon of micro-sol but this could work! And after this, you'll be all set for the aztec decals for that Enterprise model you're thinking about!!

Marcus