Building The ANH 5'Millennium Falcon

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


eagle1

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I use cyanoacrylate glue exclusively, medium. Thin I do not like at all, it runs everywhere!. I buy 3 bottles at a time & open one up right away & put aside in daylight. I find by doing this the glue 'goes off' a little & gives me a mix that offers a little more time in fixing parts down, rather than almost an instant set with a new bottle. I can wiggle a part for around 10 seconds, which beats 1 to 2 seconds set time!.
I use a kicker also in some cases.
And Tamiya thin cement very rarely.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

SSR

Active Member
It doesn't seem to matter what you do to ACC it always bonds skin in seconds !

Fabulous build - very neat and tidy.
Curious as to how easy it is to mark out and cut straight lines on the preformed panels ?

Also, a question back to the start of your project - does your internal structure include the side mounts on the Falcon ?
Not talking about points to mount the ship on to the filming armature, but the holes in the side for the short lifting handles to carry the ship around the studio and lift it on/off the mounts. There isn't a "safe" place to lift the miniature otherwise and regardless of modern materials would certainly be quite heavy when done.
 

Attachments

  • Side Mounts.JPG
    Side Mounts.JPG
    72.8 KB · Views: 95

eagle1

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
It doesn't seem to matter what you do to ACC it always bonds skin in seconds !

Fabulous build - very neat and tidy.
Curious as to how easy it is to mark out and cut straight lines on the preformed panels ?

Also, a question back to the start of your project - does your internal structure include the side mounts on the Falcon ?
Not talking about points to mount the ship on to the filming armature, but the holes in the side for the short lifting handles to carry the ship around the studio and lift it on/off the mounts. There isn't a "safe" place to lift the miniature otherwise and regardless of modern materials would certainly be quite heavy when done.
Thank you kindly.

With the pre-formed curved styrene panel making being only 1mm thick, I simply pressed down on the roughly cut panel on my bench & marked out the correct size. The panel was then again pressed down almost flat to cut it out. The panel pops back up to its curved state as plastic has a memory.

Yes I do have the holes for those extra holding/handle points on all 4 curved sidewalls, or at least I added extra material behind my kit core walls to allow me to do this later. Each handle entry point through the casting plate & sidewall material also has it's own unique cover hiding the hole.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

eagle1

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The pipes are all pretty much bent over a candle. Thicker pipes are held closer to the flame over the thinner ones, but not too close, it's all a matter of practicing & seeing what works. Some can be bent simply by bending with your fingers, especially the thinner pipes, but without heat they tend to spring back & don't stay in the shape wanted. Heat bending gives the desired tight bend needed for alot of the pipes, it's the only way really.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

JediMichael

Master Member
Whenever I bent a rod over a flame, it always made that part black from the burn. Maybe I held it too close, or are you wiping off the burnt part. (Or both)
It gets primed/painted anyways, but just wondering.
 

eagle1

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
If you are getting the pipe black, then yeah, way too close!. Larger diameter styrene rod you can hold closer, say 3", but not for long at all, it's only to soften & pull away to do the actual bending, not holding over the flame at the same distance while pulling a bend.
 

JediMichael

Master Member
If you are getting the pipe black, then yeah, way too close!. Larger diameter styrene rod you can hold closer, say 3", but not for long at all, it's only to soften & pull away to do the actual bending, not holding over the flame at the same distance while pulling a bend.
Ok. I figured. Been a few years and have only done it a few times. It was very small rods, like 2mm or less. Can't remember.
 

eagle1

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Radar quarter section progress. Plating complete & the 'blast' damage added with more work here needing to be done with layering of damage & dremelling to replicate the miniatures wonderfully applied damage.
One more donor part to add, seems to have gone AWOL for now, but will have another hunt for it.
20210108_095644.jpg
20210108_095713.jpg
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Searun

New Member
Awesome work eagle 1. I am brand new to the forum and have started down the path of attempting a 5 ft. model as mentioned in the related ANH thread. Basic wood construction on the fuselage is a work in progress using the dimensions open sourced by the professionals on this site. Proper airfoil camber is being added above straight stringers from the disc ring to the trailing edge.

My plan is to armor the Falcon using thin brass plate as I have done on some other models. Could you please advise “edge“ measurements for the the disc and mandible side walls? I realize the mandible is about 2” in depth and it slides into a disc slot of about 2.625”. My question is what should be the inside height and recess of those channels to permit Greeblies or 3D printing detail installation if I can obtain such later.

Thanks for any advice you can provide, Searun
 

Fabian 71

Active Member
Thought I'd post some progress on my hull dome work.
I realised early on & couldn't find a place in New Zealand anyway to blow mold one piece domes, that really, there is no point to full domes, why wouldn't a half dome or even a quarter dome section work!. So that's what I have done, built an oversize quarter section form or tool, to have the domes vacformed in 4.75mm ABS. The tool is oversized to allow good pulls & trimming when placed on my core. The tool was all CNC'd MDF. Just finishing up the skinning now, which is 3mm MDF. All this will be sanded smooth & filled if needed & sanded again & sealed. Then it will be down to the plastic formers for vacforming. 10 pulls will be needed for 1 Falcon, 8 for the 2 domes,1 for the engine deck & the last for the engine petal strips & maybe another as a spare.

View attachment 840853

View attachment 840854

View attachment 840855
Hi Stu, sorry to bother , do you remember what thickness you used for the mdf ribs ?
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top