I’ll get them in a mould next week and spin a few samples...
I’ve just upgraded my membership to premium so hopefully I’ll be able to create an interest list in classifieds as stated in the rules.
Build: Luke Macrobinoculars (ANH Hero)
- Thread starter MastahBlastah
- Start date
I’ll get them in a mould next week and spin a few samples...
I’ve just upgraded my membership to premium so hopefully I’ll be able to create an interest list in classifieds as stated in the rules.
Count me in for 4, if so!
I have both. Haven’t taken the cameras apart yet and put them together but, from what I can see, the central knobs seem to be the same size. Can’t see why they wouldn’t fit.
Funny you should ask as I’ve just swapped mine today! They are the same size... excuse the grime, the plate will get a clean
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I will make an interest post once my premium membership is confirmed. I want to do things by the book so once that happens and I have the first castings I’ll create a post in classifieds and link it back to here
Definitely seems to be.
Hi Bbabylonia
So if thats the case...would one really need the B/H 220 or could you just use all of the parts from the 624 to produce the same results on the interior of the seagull knob?
So if thats the case...would one really need the B/H 220 or could you just use all of the parts from the 624 to produce the same results on the interior of the seagull knob?
I'd be in for some metal replicas!
I’m still waiting for a chance to see my mouldmaker But hopefully I’ll be able to meet up with him first week of September and once I figure out the logistics and potential costs I’ll create the interest thread. As with everything Covid-19 is slowing things up!
I hope if it's OK to post my version of the macrobinoculars here! I'm very happy with the result. I 3D modeled and printed several parts: the transition box, the lens plate, the lens knobs, the EIAJ plug cover (on the female side) & small plate. The rest is all vintage components.
The lenses are not 'correct' but I found one of them in my father's old camera box (Asahi Pentax Super Takumar). Great find and a personal touch! So I managed to purchase a similar lens to go with it. Assembly, finishing and weathering all done by myself. Research and hunting parts took a while but was great fun. Building took about a week. I installed a flexible EL backlight and I'm planning on putting the Bantha scene inside [emoji846]
The stand is a cheap security camera wall mount. I still need to attach it to a base. I mounted a camera 1/4" nut on the body which can be covered with the belt clip (not in the picture).
If anyone is interested in the 3D parts: please send me a message and I can share it.
Let me know what you think!
Roy
The lenses are not 'correct' but I found one of them in my father's old camera box (Asahi Pentax Super Takumar). Great find and a personal touch! So I managed to purchase a similar lens to go with it. Assembly, finishing and weathering all done by myself. Research and hunting parts took a while but was great fun. Building took about a week. I installed a flexible EL backlight and I'm planning on putting the Bantha scene inside [emoji846]
The stand is a cheap security camera wall mount. I still need to attach it to a base. I mounted a camera 1/4" nut on the body which can be covered with the belt clip (not in the picture).
If anyone is interested in the 3D parts: please send me a message and I can share it.
Let me know what you think!
Roy
Looks beautiful! I love the lenses, looks the parts without breaking the bank. I'm doing something similar with mine.
The mount is great!. Very inspirational
The mount is great!. Very inspirational
chazzychaz
Sr Member
Hello Just tried searching jerry gluejunky on etsy, no shop found. help
Looks beautiful, Roy! Refreshing to see a new approach to building these out.
Banthas in view!
Dewback_Rider
Well-Known Member
These look AMAZING!! Please detail your sources for the EL backlight and the process.
Dewback_Rider
Well-Known Member
So, I have sourced a real-world VTR plug and receptacle. The receptacle (female) was part of a vintage SONY monitor.
Because the connectors in the monitor were mounted/soldered on the circuit board in a weird configuration, the prongs were bent at a 90° angle so it faced out the back panel correctly. I had to cut it off of the board, which meant one side was shorter than the other. If done carefully you can cut them long enough to still be usable though.
My question is this: The metal housing that is part of the connector is not rounded, but rather flat and squared off. (see pics of mine and the rounded one for reference). Is anyone using the squared off metal part, or should I ditch it and just use the green plug part with the added circuit board and wrapped wire around the pins?
Because the connectors in the monitor were mounted/soldered on the circuit board in a weird configuration, the prongs were bent at a 90° angle so it faced out the back panel correctly. I had to cut it off of the board, which meant one side was shorter than the other. If done carefully you can cut them long enough to still be usable though.
My question is this: The metal housing that is part of the connector is not rounded, but rather flat and squared off. (see pics of mine and the rounded one for reference). Is anyone using the squared off metal part, or should I ditch it and just use the green plug part with the added circuit board and wrapped wire around the pins?
I had the same green block but covered in a black square block. I used the green block and I modeled and 3D printed a fake metal rounded cover as you can see here:
But I've seen others using the metal sheet cover as well.
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