Stock Hinge Secured to Receiver / Bolts Shortened
I mentioned previously that I wanted to bolt to slide freely without the stock receiver bolts hindering its movement.....both in function and for assembly.
Here's what it looks like as it comes from FM.
I hoped to simply buy a shorter bolt to replace the bolt with the kit but that wasn't happening. The cut bolt I ended up with fell between shaft lengths. So that meant trimming the bolt to length with my dremel. It was good to know that I had a source of these bolts locally as well in case I messed up something.
Here's a comparison of the bolts (L-R): new cut bolt ~13mm or 17/32" shaft length, new 5/8" length bolt from Ace, stock 3/4" bolt from FM
BTW, these were 10-32 threads, not the 12-24 x 3/8" indicated on his drawing
Perfect fit and the bolt slides freely now.
Very little thread left for the bolt to grab onto but this ends up being sufficient for handling the work of attaching the stock to the hinge only.
My concern was around the security of the hinge to the receiver. I feel relying on these 2 bolts to secure the stock-hinge-receiver was asking too much and noticed even before cutting down the bolts that the hinge would wobble a bit when extending / retracting the stock. Actually, if I tightened it down sufficiently without wobble, I couldn't get the stock to fold/unfold. It was a trade off between wobble or folding.
So I decided I needed to secure the hinge to the receiver in a more permanent way.....using E6000 and JB weld original.
Masking/Prep
Then first, some E6000 to the underside of the hinge to properly locate it to the receiver using the screws to assist and ensuring the bolts will be aligned properly afterwards. I consciously avoided applying the E6000 near the holes since I didn't want the bolts to be glued in.
After waiting a full 24 hours (a bit overkill but I really wanted it to be fully set before moving on) I mixed up some JB Weld
Did the best I could to smooth it out and keep things relatively clean and contained.
Removed the tape before the JB weld starts to set.
After waiting another 24 hours for the JB Weld to cure, I sanded everything down using round mini files and a maroon 3M scotchbrite pad to smooth everything out afterwards.
Some reflections....
- From previous work creating a internal mount on my PG Falcon and some tests with scrap aluminum bars before this, I noticed that just simply using one adhesive component may not be enough....especially in this type of connection where one part sits on top of another.
- The E6000 helps create the initial bond between the parts.....and while E6000 can be flexible after curing (this is a good thing for what it is and honestly it seemed quite secure afterwards), I wanted something a bit more to lock the hinge down so a 2-part epoxy putty of some sort was considered.
- JB Weld Steel stick - no way, too little working time and not easy to manipulate given the parts to be bonded [Pass]
- CA/baking soda - surprisingly effective, super strong and sandable; but messy, difficult to control application and not sure how the CA would interact with the E6000 [Pass]
- Milliput - great working time, easy to work with especially with a bit of water, I really went back and forth between this and JB Weld but ultimately felt JB would give me a better connection since it was a bit more fluid during application [not this time but a viable option]