Build Log - Fieldmarshall E11 Blaster

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zjunlimited

Sr Member
That scope looks great! It looks just like the finish on my larger scope. Great idea using the textured paint.

Are you going to do the wrinkle paint that's applied to the real Sterlings?

Whew! I hoped my efforts were on par with the numerous reference photos I’ve been studying.

And yes to the wrinkle paint >>> VHT.
 

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zjunlimited

Sr Member
Stock Hinge Secured to Receiver / Bolts Shortened

I mentioned previously that I wanted to bolt to slide freely without the stock receiver bolts hindering its movement.....both in function and for assembly.

Here's what it looks like as it comes from FM.
183 Hinge 01, bolts.JPG

I hoped to simply buy a shorter bolt to replace the bolt with the kit but that wasn't happening. The cut bolt I ended up with fell between shaft lengths. So that meant trimming the bolt to length with my dremel. It was good to know that I had a source of these bolts locally as well in case I messed up something.

Here's a comparison of the bolts (L-R): new cut bolt ~13mm or 17/32" shaft length, new 5/8" length bolt from Ace, stock 3/4" bolt from FM
BTW, these were 10-32 threads, not the 12-24 x 3/8" indicated on his drawing
183 Hinge 04, 13mm or 17-32 vs 5-8 Ace vs 3-4 FM length.JPG


Perfect fit and the bolt slides freely now.
183 Hinge 05.JPG


Very little thread left for the bolt to grab onto but this ends up being sufficient for handling the work of attaching the stock to the hinge only.
183 Hinge 06.JPG 183 Hinge 03.JPG

My concern was around the security of the hinge to the receiver. I feel relying on these 2 bolts to secure the stock-hinge-receiver was asking too much and noticed even before cutting down the bolts that the hinge would wobble a bit when extending / retracting the stock. Actually, if I tightened it down sufficiently without wobble, I couldn't get the stock to fold/unfold. It was a trade off between wobble or folding.

So I decided I needed to secure the hinge to the receiver in a more permanent way.....using E6000 and JB weld original.

Masking/Prep
182 Hinge 13.JPG


Then first, some E6000 to the underside of the hinge to properly locate it to the receiver using the screws to assist and ensuring the bolts will be aligned properly afterwards. I consciously avoided applying the E6000 near the holes since I didn't want the bolts to be glued in.
182 Hinge 14, e6000.JPG

182 Hinge 16.JPG

After waiting a full 24 hours (a bit overkill but I really wanted it to be fully set before moving on) I mixed up some JB Weld
182 Hinge 17, JB Weld.JPG

Did the best I could to smooth it out and keep things relatively clean and contained.
182 Hinge 22.JPG


Removed the tape before the JB weld starts to set.
182 Hinge 23.JPG


After waiting another 24 hours for the JB Weld to cure, I sanded everything down using round mini files and a maroon 3M scotchbrite pad to smooth everything out afterwards.
182 Hinge 34.JPG


Some reflections....
  • From previous work creating a internal mount on my PG Falcon and some tests with scrap aluminum bars before this, I noticed that just simply using one adhesive component may not be enough....especially in this type of connection where one part sits on top of another.
  • The E6000 helps create the initial bond between the parts.....and while E6000 can be flexible after curing (this is a good thing for what it is and honestly it seemed quite secure afterwards), I wanted something a bit more to lock the hinge down so a 2-part epoxy putty of some sort was considered.
  • JB Weld Steel stick - no way, too little working time and not easy to manipulate given the parts to be bonded [Pass]
  • CA/baking soda - surprisingly effective, super strong and sandable; but messy, difficult to control application and not sure how the CA would interact with the E6000 [Pass]
  • Milliput - great working time, easy to work with especially with a bit of water, I really went back and forth between this and JB Weld but ultimately felt JB would give me a better connection since it was a bit more fluid during application [not this time but a viable option]
 
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Kwc271

Active Member
Great build and attention to detail. I have one of FieldMarshal’s E11 kits as well but I don’t know when I’ll be able to finish it, life is getting in the way. I do have it painted and assembled but it lacks the scope, counter, and t-tracks. I’m considering letting it go, hate to, but it isn’t doing any good sitting in a drawer. I used flat black on mine.
 

zjunlimited

Sr Member
Great build and attention to detail. I have one of FieldMarshal’s E11 kits as well but I don’t know when I’ll be able to finish it, life is getting in the way. I do have it painted and assembled but it lacks the scope, counter, and t-tracks. I’m considering letting it go, hate to, but it isn’t doing any good sitting in a drawer. I used flat black on mine.
Thanks. I would suggest keeping it and displaying it as is for the time being. Without those Star Wars specific bits, it does show well as a replica SMG....if that's your fancy. Otherwise, seems like FM will have a continual stock of these so you can always come back later when you are ready. Best of luck.
 

zjunlimited

Sr Member
Front Sight Guard

Not sure if others experienced this but when assembled, the guard wobbles/rattles a bit. No matter what I do to tighten the muzzle against the barrel, it was still loose. Maybe it was the result of my previous adjustments but whatever the case may be, I needed to fix it.

So taking a similar approach as with the hinge, I applied some E6000 on the underside of the guard where it contacts the receiver and assembled the front end together. After drying I removed the muzzle and barrel.

Next I taped off the front end focusing on the area where the front sight would slide into.
180 Sight Guard 15.JPG


I could have stopped with the E6000 since that stopped the rattle but I wanted to give this connection a bit more stability and support so this time I decided to use Milliput instead of JB Weld. For one, I didn't need the strength of JB Weld and this is a much tighter area so it required a cleaner, more controllable method of applying the putty.

So I rolled up the Milliput in thin sausage-like rods and using a clay carving spatula, applied it to the relevant sections....shaping and carving it as I went. Sorry no pictures since I had to manipulate the putty and water with my fingers and was just too messy.

Once applied and the tape removed, I let it dry and cure for a bit over 24 hours. Afterwards, shaped, carved, sanded it using an xacto knife and the same round mini-file. Final result...

180 Sight Guard 25, final sand.JPG




180 Sight Guard 28.JPG


And similar with the hinge, once I have a couple layers of paint, the putty seam shouldn't be that noticeable
 

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Kwc271

Active Member
Thanks. I would suggest keeping it and displaying it as is for the time being. Without those Star Wars specific bits, it does show well as a replica SMG....if that's your fancy. Otherwise, seems like FM will have a continual stock of these so you can always come back later when you are ready. Best of luck.
I don’t know, I’m just tempted to sell it.
 

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