Painting up some parts. This "Chalked" stuff takes a bit to cure. It has been really hot here lately and it seemed to lessen the paint curing length to only about two days.
Here is a quick photo of the AN/M2 version. The cocking handle has yet to be painted and the round and belt stops are still drying and are missing from the photos. The photo needs better lighting and the weapon itself needs a bit of weathering. The only time a weapon would look like this if it were with a factory fresh parkerized coating.
The rear sight assembly painted but not glued on yet. Spade grip handles still being painted but standard backplate attached with working latches. Picked up some silver paint wax at Michael's for weathering. Will try that soon. Notice the 1/2 inch copper pipe which almost goes from barrel end to the rear buffer assembly. the cocking slide rides on it and will have springs to return the cocking handle forward.
Cartridge stop assembly on right and belt holding pawl on left added. Both functional with springs.
The securing pin, brass rod, obviously still needs a touch of paint.
A custom backplate for an M3. The M3 was the next step in improving the old M2 to increase the fire rate. Most of the internal components are similar, but the M3 has a larger buffer assembly, the feed cover was redesigned and the rear top cover modified to accept the sturdier buffer assembly back plate.. This one does not fit on the above M2 but I am printing out another with modified parts.
Pretty much done. Printing out an M3 chassis to ensure everything fits together well. Tweaking the trigger assemblies to standardize how they attach to the backplate.
Trying to design an instruction set to ensure this printed kit goes together well and 'in order' so that people don't make mistakes and have to spend hours re-printing parts if not assembled correctly. I hope the instruction set doesn't turn out to be hours and hours of work or else I might never get this done.
Looks really nice. When you get to weathering it, I'd go kind of light on the weathering since the parkerization is pretty tough. You're going to mostly see wear, but not a whole of chipping. The most visible wear is going to be on the inside on the feed plate, that part will usually have a lot of the parkerization worn off.
You're absolutely right Riceball . Parkerization doesn't chip but it does wear. I picked up some silver paste was designed for antiquing painted handles, picture frames and such. Its really thick and difficult to have it go on light. I found that Windex breaks it down for a bit to make it more "paintable". I rubbed most of it off to give it the look of a bit of wear on the edges and "bumps". I can't take this thing outside because of nosy neighbours, so I had to use some bright lights in my basement. Not a natural light so things may look a bit too weathered since the silver reflects more than the paint.
Its so easy to overdo weathering on weapons. Windex takes some of the silver paste off to tone it down. What I don't like it the visibility of the 1/2 " brass pipe. I purchased a 1/2" solid metal rod that I will put on the back end, which will give it a bit of rear weight. The front barrel and barrel support are very solid and heavy which weigh down the front of the weapon. If anybody is going to mount this on a Jeep, the weight has to be somewhat balanced. I designed an optional compartment inside that one can access to put in extra weight in the receiver. It won't matter if someone wants to just display this on their wall, but if someone want to use this as a prop, it has to have some weight to it.
I have yet to glue the rear sight on. I'll do it once I get the instructions done. The yard increments on the rear sight didn't come out as clear as I would have hoped. It may be because I used full anti-aliasing on the resin printer, but again, at a couple of feet away, you can't even notice.