Bone broth cup / soup bowl for Baby Yoda (The Child)

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E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
soup.gif

Hello there!

Here's a bone broth / soup cup for your "Baby Yoda"! I didn't see one posted here or on Thingiverse so I made my own. The geometry should be fairly accurate -- I used reference images from the fourth episode as well as accompanying behind-the-scenes footage from the Gallery specials.


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cup2.png
cup3.png
cup4.png
cup5.png
cup6.png


I made my best guess at the size of it and arrived at a 2 5/8" outer diameter, starting from an assumed 14" tall Child (the Mattel version pictured below is a bit shorter and chibi-fied compared to the puppet). If the original wasn't printed, I suspect it could be a shortened 2" sch. 40 PVC pipe cap with feet added on, though that part is much thicker.

print2.jpg


Two versions are posted; my first pass had the ends of the legs flush to the contour of the cup, but the Gallery footage revealed a slight step between the cup and the legs and this is reflected in the "idealized" and "accurate" files, respectively. Looking at the reference again I half wonder if the cup upper lip should be shortened by about 1/8" as with the step added to the leg-to-cup joint, the legs appear shorter in relation to the cup than they should be... Thoughts?

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(wasn't as careful smoothing out the lines on the bottom of the second version on the right)

IMG_E8075x.jpg


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PS The cup has a very low center of gravity and is extremely stable due to the wide footprint; I found that my mis-prints were really useful as parts dishes - screws, small printed components, model kit parts, etc. So, a third version is included on Thingiverse with notches in the feet to allow stacking :)

stacking.jpg

Here is the thingiverse link:
 

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E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
How to finish:

Sand the print to knock down layer lines, and use red glazing and spot putty or XTC-3D epoxy coating on the lower contours to fill the lines that are harder to reach at the base of the legs. The spot putty can be thinned with acetone or isopropyl alcohol to make a glaze. I don't use or recommend XTC-3D very often, but the shape of this is simple enough that no detail will be lost and it would work well in place of the spot putty.

Since I printed my bowl upside down, the print finish was worse on the inside bottom than the outside. I sloshed a thin layer of casting resin around in the bottom to create a smooth surface, but sanding and spot putty or XTC-3D would have worked fine as well. If you don't have any resin on hand, printing the cup upright may result in less post-processing.

Sand again to smooth the coating material and follow up with Dupli-color red filler primer. Check to see that all print lines are filled and if necessary, repeat the sanding and filler primer step.

I painted the cup in multiple thin misted layers of metallic copper/brown colors. I try to avoid Rustoleum as it takes a long time to fully cure, but in this case only this brand had the mix of color I wanted. I used Metallic Rust and Burnished Amber but Rustoleum has at least half a dozen colors in the general ballpark that would work. Thin layers of alternating color give the paint depth; follow up with a grungy acrylic or oil wash for aging.

When finished as described above this cup is not food-safe!
 

Vader2015

Member
Haaa, this just said E williams shared a project, i looked over and started freeking out. Have i been working in my sleep, no wonder im tired lately for no reason. I've heard of this happening but never figured to me, OMG this is blowing my mind as my currrent project is my mancave and a saber. This i must see...oh its a bowl and then i realise im not listed with my real name here. I'm E Williams also. Nice project though ..im going back to bed
 

Soulinertia

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Excellent work on this! I agree it seems a bit tall though. But overall you totally nailed it. Thanks for the file. Looking forward to printing one myself!
Screenshot_20201109-180732_Layout.jpg
 

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thank you and I appreciate the feedback! I stared at the images some more last night and do agree there's definitely something off in the proportions. Here's a comparison with two reference images -- the diameters are all scaled to the same width:

35A241B9-259A-43A7-B625-1B65E4CF2E94.jpeg

It does seem at first that it's simply too tall. So as a test I edited the photo of mine to shorten the straight-sided section by a fraction of an inch to make that comparatively the same height as the straight-sided part of the reference image

F6EBC217-DB01-44C1-8BF8-CAF3B19554A9.jpeg

And now the cup seems too short - note the position of the bottom of the feet in the top row is higher on the print, and the feet themselves seem short (bottom row is less useful here as the reference image is cut off at the base). I know the perspectives are not *exactly* the same but that wouldn't throw it off that much. So I think the issue is that while the overall height-to-width ratio works, the curved bottom portion actually should be taller relative to the straight-sided section. That would make the feet taller too.

To illustrate here is the Fusion 360 sketch of the cup cross-section - the light blue shaded area is the original shape, and the dark blue lines show the shape after increasing the height of the ellipse minor axis by 1/8" and keeping the overall height the same...
1605024143819.png

And some comparisons before and after the change... better I think?
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Compared with reference:
revised compare.png

New file added to the thingiverse entry: "broth cup accurate mm revised.stl"
 

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E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
After seeing Soulinertia's beautiful wooden take on this prop, and the brightened screencap above, I started to doubt my interpretation of this cup's material as a glazed ceramic finish. I went back to the episode to more closely examine the larger version that Cara Dune uses at the end of the episode (it's also used when Din eats dinner in his hut window, but it's hard to see the finish then too) -- turns out the big one is absolutely made from or meant to be wood, so the small one would be too:

big cup.png


There are a lot of small tea cups made from acacia and jujube wood on the internet, though I've not yet found one small enough to use right off the bat. So I'll be trying a faux wood grain effect on my printed cup. I've seen some very convincing effects done with alcohol inks:


 
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TazMan2000

Master Member
Is it just me, or do those cups in the stills look like they are faceted? Could be just the shadows, but they could have printed off a bunch of them for production.

TazMan2000
 

E Williams

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I see what you're saying, but if those were facets from a lower resolution 3D file, they'd be straight up and down / parallel to the long axis rather than angled - pretty sure those are wood grain lines. Here is the image with the levels adjusted - see how in the upper right image those grain lines also curve around the bottom of the cup:

big cup2.png
 

TazMan2000

Master Member
That's possible. It also depends on how the object was modelled and printed, if it was printed at all. I would estimate that if it were printed, it would take about 12 hours at least. I'm sure a competent wood turner could carve on out in a fraction of that time.

TazMan2000
 

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