Blade Runner Blaster Paint Up For Bad Wolf

[PepMaster]

Just seeking a little critque on a Blade Runner gun that I hand painted for a member here Bad Wolf. I still have to do a quick close inspection to see any spots I might have missed or any spots where paint is overlapping where it should'nt be, but this was all hand painted. All I have left to do is spray it with a gloss to seal the paint on it. Believe it or not I accidently found the perfect color for the grip by mixing a little Autumn Leaves, Fire Engine Red and a tiny bit of black, mixing it all together and got it on the first try. It took 5 coats to get a solid color on the black grip, but I'm happy with how it turned out. Pardon the photos believe it or not the photos are upside down because it's hanging on a hook air drying lol. Prepare to have your mind blown.

 

[franz bolo]

Personally, I'm not liking it. It looks like old Testor's Model paint that I used as a kid.

Opinions vary so please don't take offense.


FB

 

[PepMaster]

No offense taken enamel paint was used, I like to stick with Model Master paints. And I know some people airbrush, but I like to handpaint items that way I know how much effort was put into it.

 

[androidandy]

What model is that? If it wasn't for the notch in the grip butt plate, I would think it was a casting from one of the stunt casts.

Personally I am not crazy about the texture you get from hand painting, unless you are going for a corroded metal look. The gloss seal may alleviate some of it though.

Andy

 

[Hirohawa]

Hand painted doesn't really make it feel like a firearm or capture the look of the film used blaster.

I still think it would look like a lot of work was done to it if the paint was smooth from application of an airbrush or even a rattlecan.

 

[PepMaster]

I'm not sure of the model maker I received it from Bad Wolf on here, when I put down the clear gloss coat even though I'm leaning more towards a clear matte coat it will allievate most of what you see in the photos. I was going for a more used over time look with it on the barrel of the gun. And believe it or not I have never used a airbrush or rattlecan in my entire life, since I was about 8 years old I have been doing handpainting with a series of brushes starting with old store kits of the Star Trek ships and I still wish I had some of those photos today from that age.

 

[Alan Castillo]

I agree Vagabond, a can or airbrush would be the way to go.

And believe it or not I have never used a airbrush or rattlecan in my entire life,

It's very easy. Just follow the instructions on the can. Really ! They work

Just practice the pushing of the nozzle, & the wrist /arm movements a little, on any old thing first. You'll get the hang of it instantly, and will avoid 'clumping' or overdoing it.

 

[PHArchivist]

I'm not sure of the model maker I received it from Bad Wolf on here, when I put down the clear gloss coat even though I'm leaning more towards a clear matte coat it will allievate most of what you see in the photos. I was going for a more used over time look with it on the barrel of the gun. And believe it or not I have never used a airbrush or rattlecan in my entire life, since I was about 8 years old I have been doing handpainting with a series of brushes starting with old store kits of the Star Trek ships and I still wish I had some of those photos today from that age.

I doubt it... Paint is very thin (at least, sprayed paint). Your texture is not.

If you'e not into airbrushing, or even rattle-cans, then I doubt you've experimented with wet-sanding.

But that's what this needs. A color-sanding (wet-sanding) to knock down the texture.

Done properly, it will even out your texture. It will also make the colors less rich, but when you DO go over with the clear (and PLEASE do so with a rattle can), it will bring back the richness of the color.

 

[androidandy]

I would also go with the matt clear coat. The gloss tends to emphasize textures. The thing is that even the absolute best brush painting will not compare to the quality of a spray paint, even from a can. Not only that, even with the time spent masking it will also end up being a lot less work too. I can still remember the "Ah ha" moment when I switched over to spray for doing model car kits. The difference was astounding immediately. I still do much of my weathering by hand though, as well as detail painting and dry brushing. Just remember when using a spray can to make quick (the quicker the thinner the paint) complete passes over the object and don't hold the can on the object when spraying or it will be too thick and drip, as well as fill in all the detail. Main rule of thumb, the thinner the paint, the less it looks like paint, and will like it is molded in that material.

Using a flat black primer as your main paint is also nice, because it takes dry brushing and buffable metal paints nice. Many pros use that with just some rub and buff to make quick metal looking non-hero weapons. Some of them have it down where they can be shown up close and look very real too.

Here is an example of the idea from Rick Ross...
http://pflagerkatsumata.com/PKD-Enforcer_2.jpg

And as PHArchivist said, sanding. Make sure your base model looks smooth, and clean before hand. Do one thin primer coat, sand, and then repeat as needed. Hand brushing will still work geat though if you are trying to add rust an corrosion on it.

KramStar has some tutorials on that I think on his site, here is his RPF thread...
http://www.therpf.com/f9/blade-runner-pflager-katsumata-pkd-pic-heavy-61915/

Some pictures of extreme weathering by Rick Ross on Propsummit...
Propsummit.com a Blade Runner Prop Community Forum BladeRunnerProps.comView topic - Rick's PFLAGER KATSUMATA SERIES D Magnum (showing off)

Hope this gives you a lot of cool ideas to experiment with.

Andy

p.s. Do you have any pictures of it before you started painting? I would also like to see the otherside too please.