Bio Helmet Mold?

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oxtheii

New Member
I have looked around the site quite a bit, making sure not to ask the same question.
But I would like to know if there might be a tutorial on how to prep your bio mask for mold making?

What materials would you recommend to make the mold?
Should I make the traditional box mold type or something else?

If there are pictures or anything, that would be super :)

(I found it after posting this Derp...I think the bondo has gone to my brain now)

http://www.thehunterslair.com/topic/17425-huntorial-molding-a-p1-bio/page__hl__huntorial
This is what I found for anyone who is curious
 

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made007

Sr Member
I think theres a lot of ways of doing the same thing, search for huntorials theres a lot of useful stuff
 

zero90

New Member
Hi, I have a few questions regarding mold making as well.

1) So approximately how much the silicon need to use to mold a Bio? I'll be using Rebound 25 that
comes in a package of two​
16 oz(473 ml) jars. Is that enough for 1 bio? Or I need a pair of this silicone kit?

2) How much volume I need to use for first layer?(the beauty coat)

3) How many layers to add on? 3-4? I know I need to adding some thickening agent, but not sure in which layer to pour on it.

Thanks!
 

SMOKE

Well-Known Member
You definitely need 2 trial size kits of rebound 25. As far as beauty coat, each Bio is different. It all depends on your surface area and details. Best to mix up too little cause you can always add more if you didn't mix up enough. Rebound takes about an hour before you do you second coat. So there's time to mix up more. First 2 layers are straight up rebound. 3rd layer is your thickened layer. Basically level out all of the low spots,over hangs,eyes ect. 4th is another straight rebound coat. I like to put a few drops of thivex in the last coat so its not as runny. After that you make your fiberglass jacket.

Hope that helps.
 

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zero90

New Member
That does help out a lot, thanks. :) I'll go for the plaster jacket mould instead of fiberglass. And I also need to have a light mist of silicone release agent on the rubber mould before I apply the plaster right?
 

SMOKE

Well-Known Member
You shouldn't need any mold ease for your jacket. I only use it on the inside of the mold before i pour in the resin. you could put some on your work board around the rebound to prevent the Jacket from sticking to it. You shouldn't have an issue with the plaster sticking to the rebound.
;).
 

hez1

New Member
The thread that oxtheii found that I wrote (bottom of her first post), gives detailed instructions on how much of everything to use. It's a pretty exhaustive, step by step process. The only thing I would add is that ultimately, that mould proved to be a little thin. I would say use 3 of the trial size kits, as after a while, I started getting impressions of the mould keys in the casts, and eventually had to scrap the whole mould because of it.
 

zero90

New Member
Really? Cause I'm worried that the plaster will stick on the rebound after dried. :unsure: Oh yes, please don't mind me asking more. For casting, which resin most people here use to cast the bio? Is smooth cast 300 good to cast a bio? And I wanted to know how many layer to have enough thickness for a bio as well, I don't find any thread that explain that clearly as I have no experience on moulding and casting.
 

hez1

New Member
Nothing sticks to silicone, except more silicone. The mother mould may be difficult to remove the first time, because the close fitting nature of it creates little pockets of vacuum that you have to break, but it won't stick.

320 is a better casting resin for slushing than 300, go with that. The 300 sets up too suddenly. As for how many layers, it's tough to explain. It depends how you're casting. Meangene has some great youtube vids on it, you should check those out. You'll have to look for the links though, I don't have them to hand.
 

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