Bio Helmet Huntorial

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antcarb

Active Member
Hey all! I am going to give a quick step by step on building a jacket mold for a bio helmet.

1. First step, build a wall for your mold. Here we used cardboard covered with duct tape.
th_BioHelmettutorial001.jpg

2. Next fill all your voids with dirt clay.
th_BioHelmettutorial008.jpg

3. You want it to be about one-third of and inch thick. The reason for that is to build space of the silicone.
th_BioHelmettutorial034.jpg

4. When finished it should look like this. Notice the keys on the clay that will help hold the fiberglass shell on.
th_BioHelmettutorial039.jpg

5. Then gently put a pour spout on the top of the clay to pour the silicone into. The reason for this is to help fill the mold to top with silicone. Photo shows plastic wrap on dirt clay, this is only to keep dirt clay from drying out. REMOVE plastic wrap before you begin to fiberglass.
th_BioHelmettutorial042.jpg

6. Then fiberglass your form. We like to use a mixture of talc and cabasel to thicken the fiberglass to be able to trowel it on mold verses using mat. Add rods to jacket mold before it cures to create handles for your mold.
th_BioHelmettutorial005.jpg

7. Next step, when the glass dries, drill small holes into it. You will only need about 4 of them. The reason for this is to let air escape when pouring your silicone into your form.
th_BioHelmettutorial015.jpg

8. Mix your silicone; we used smooth-on OOMOO quick set. It is a 1:1 mix ratio. Very user friendly.
th_BioHelmettutorial016.jpg

9. Pour your silicone into form, try to pour silicone as high as you can, this helps keep air bubbles out of silicone.
th_BioHelmettutorial017.jpg

10. When the silicone is dry remove the dirt clay.
th_BioHelmettutorial020.jpg

11. Next, remove sculpture remove all the clay from the mold.
th_BioHelmettutorial021.jpg

12. Start applying your plastic to the silicone form; we are using a Smooth-On product called Plastic Paste. This is mixed 3:1 by weight. You could certainly use glass to create your helmet but in this application we used plastic.
th_BioHelmettutorial026.jpg

13. When finished it should look like this photo. The product takes about an hour to de-mold.
th_BioHelmettutorial027.jpg

14. Here are the photos of the pulled casting.
th_BioHelmettutorial028.jpg
th_BioHelmettutorial030.jpg

15. Dremmel and clean all flanges, now you should be ready to paint.
th_BioHelmettutorial037.jpg

This is just a quick example of one way to create a bio helmet mold. If you have any questions please feel free to ask and I will try to answer.
Thanks,
Ant
 

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Guan Thwei

New Member
Thanks for the huntorial Ant and I'm sure this will help a lot of New people along with myself when I start casting my own Bio as well.
 

skull collector

New Member
thanks for the huntorial.... im new to the lair and ive been reading a lot of stuff and im learning so much
i dont want to rush into any sculpting or try to make a bio mask until i have enough info to do a good job
.. i hope to learn a lot more from the members of the lair i want to be as good as a lot of you guys
so thanks very much for the huntorials... :p

daskullcollector
aka(paul)
 

xdmray

Well-Known Member
nice tut, people have asked me about how to mold this way but i didnt take any pics. you should say about the holes that you need as many as you have high points. sometimes you might need more or less than 4.

EDIT: sorry i just reread you said "about" 4 my bad.


good work!
 

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antcarb

Active Member
Hey guys again this is a quick look.Their are lots of tricks that you learn through the years.I just wanted to open some eyes to directions that is used in the profession.I will field as many questions as i can.I did not get super detailed with it because most of you know what time of day it is.Just trying to open some eyes and help.See ya
 

Bovine13

New Member
I think he means after the mother/jacket mold dries...you then remove the dirt clay to pour the silicone in (between the sculpt and mother/jacket mold). I think Step 10 is removing the dirt mold that fills the amiture voids because you can see the silicone mold layer in the pics.

Nice tutorial BTW. Always love seeing "in the mix" pics...so to speak. I may try and use the plastipaste casting method. I just got some new plasti paste and they changed the mix ratio...now its 2:1. Almost missed that. Didnt notice till I opened it up and the paste is a different color now, kinda blue grey instead fo the old yellow color.

Cheers!
 

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xdmray

Well-Known Member
I think he means after the mother/jacket mold dries...you then remove the dirt clay to pour the silicone in (between the sculpt and mother/jacket mold). I think Step 10 is removing the dirt mold that fills the amiture voids because you can see the silicone mold layer in the pics.

Nice tutorial BTW. Always love seeing "in the mix" pics...so to speak. I may try and use the plastipaste casting method. I just got some new plasti paste and they changed the mix ratio...now its 2:1. Almost missed that. Didnt notice till I opened it up and the paste is a different color now, kinda blue grey instead fo the old yellow color.

Cheers!


ahh i reread it and you're right Scott. yeah that part is missing.

my bad
 

Bovine13

New Member
If im thinking this right its... the step between 6 and 7? Remove the clay between the sculpt and mother/jacket mold then drill the vent holes? Or am I cracked?
 

T1K1

New Member
Hey. I know we kind of missed a couple of shots when we were making it, sorry. I think it was something like "oh man. where's the camera? Oops, too late, oh well, let's keep going and get this thing done". Yep, forgot the "remove jacket, and clean out clay, which will be replaced with silicone when mold is put back together, do any touch up's on sculpt if necessary" or something like that. Also, the plasti paste we used was actually a 3:1 mix, I'm curious if they changed the formula, have to check it out. Anyway, given that the weather here was HOT, it kind of started gelling quickly(it was heating up as I was mixing it). I think I had about 5 minutes to mix and get it on. I think it turned out good though!
 

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Bovine13

New Member
I just used the new 2:1 stuff this weekend on my blade jacket mold. Its ****! It dosent mix as smooth as the 3:1 stuff and its way more pourus when cured. And for some reason the clay i have been using sticks to it. It didnt on the 3:1 stuff but, I had to scrape the clay away from the 2:1 stuff. I will just fiberglass the jacket molds from now on before I use that crap again.
 

hez1

New Member
I just used the new 2:1 stuff this weekend on my blade jacket mold. Its ****! It dosent mix as smooth as the 3:1 stuff and its way more pourus when cured. And for some reason the clay i have been using sticks to it. It didnt on the 3:1 stuff but, I had to scrape the clay away from the 2:1 stuff. I will just fiberglass the jacket molds from now on before I use that crap again.
I found clay stuck to the 3:1 stuff just as badly. Esaiest solution is to rub everything it's going to touch with vaseline.
 

Ei luj

New Member
AntCarb, T1K1

I just ran across this thread, excellent huntorial

It really shows the attention to detail-work that goes into making these, kudos to y'all

That bio is totally slathered, soaked, and immersed in awesome sauce (to borrow a phrase )

and

---
Ei'luj
 

Wolf177

New Member
hey there!

I was reading the tut, but somethin didn' make any sense to me. From the looks of it, it looks like you are making an outer mold, without the details. just a mold of the clay outer layer. Could you give some more detail on the silicone bit?
 

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