Biker Scout Blaster Build

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


Jediseth

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My Biker Scout Trooper Blaster

This started when I came across a transistor several weeks ago while tearing part a vintage monitor to salvage a part for a prop and came across a transistor that looked very familiar. I was identical to the one used on the Biker Scout Trooper blaster so I harvested it and decide to go down the journey of building one. With the recent live auction The Prop Store had very close up images were available for me to build a prop. So I decided it would be a fun project and moved forward to build one as accurate as I could to the design by James Schoppe and then built by Ira Keeler and ILM.

Here are two reference photos for two different blasters that were auctioned off. A complete set of images on both blasters are available in the auction house websites. The first was from the Prop Store Auction June 29, 2021 and the second photo was from a smaller resin version from Julien's Auctions, April 28, 2021.

tf2zilU.jpg

finEDtM.jpg


The main body is made from wood just like the original and then I searched and got together the known vintage parts to build the blaster. Vintage parts for this blaster include:

Vintage TO-3 Transistor
Vintage Single Point Scope
Vintage Webley or Parker Hales RCH3 1" scope rings.

Here are the parts I gathered.

6LeinCn.jpg


I glued two blocks of wood together and began measuring out from reference photos and the measurements given the body for the blaster. The transistor as well as the scope really helped as a reference point too.

W3HrCVO.jpg


After I was happy with the shape of the gun I began drilling holes and making the necessary parts it needed. I help the parts in place with JB weld, which I liked because I was able to sand any access off.

39q7K9V.jpg


On my lathe I started turning wood to make the top and side details. I couldn't find any wood that was hard enough to turn. After trying out poplar I figured out it was way too soft, it turned into a disaster. I then tried oak and later decided to just make them out of aluminum and epoxy glue them to the wood body.

oLHosrm.jpg


I was much happier with the aluminum and it gave the blaster a little more strength. I then needed to mill them about half way down so they would be flat and the correct size.
Z1j2BaI.jpg

EjywhxL.jpg


I used some JB weld and JB weld putty to fill in the cracks and round things up just like on the prop.

wmzczZH.jpg

2xAUH59.jpg


I also made the handle guard out of a 1/8" x 1/2" steel I found at Lowe's. I used my vise to clamp it and by hand I bent it, I got it exactly how I wanted the first try which usually doesn't happen.
vcHct02.jpg


I also had to drill a 3/4" hole for the back part that I made and the front end I made in the beginning. I used an end mill to drill the hole because I didn't own a 3/4" drill bit.

oDmFj2i.jpg


After a little Durhams wood putty to smooth out some cut lines and lots of sanding I'm ready to prime. Priming is nice because It can be sanded afterwars and will show you tiny flaws that may still need to be filled in. They stand out much better and can be seen after priming.

hyN6QWB.jpg


I'm waiting for the second coat of primer to dry after reapplying from filling in a few cracks and sanding again. To be continued...
 
Last edited:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Jediseth

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Suspending your project in the air is the best way to paint items like this.. This will need overnight to dry so I can handle it and attach the scope. I might want to build a stand of some sort, there isn't very many option for a biker scout or EC-17 blaster stand.
Vu361nR.jpg
 

Chris Moliere

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I love seeing people using original parts for their prop builds, it brings a level of accuracy that is difficult to achieve without them. Loving this so far!
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

eethan

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
cool! this is a project I always wanted to do! I never knew the body was made of wood, if this is true, that makes it even more interesting!
congrats on your scratch build (y)
 

Jediseth

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
cool! this is a project I always wanted to do! I never knew the body was made of wood, if this is true, that makes it even more interesting!
congrats on your scratch build (y)
Thanks Eethan, the original one was made from wood, I believe the rest were resin.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

woodywaverider

Active Member
Love this, what did you use for the barrel piece? I’ve been looking for a correct nozzle, but can’t find the right one, closest I’ve found is a fuel line connector, but that requires modification the stepped part to be added separately.

I’d also love to hear your solution for how you attached the bottom of the scope mount. I’ve never seen a picture from that angle.
 
Last edited:

Jediseth

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Love this, what did you use for the barrel piece? I’ve been looking for a correct nozzle, but can’t find the right one, closest I’ve found is a fuel line connector, but that requires modification the stepped part to be added separately.

I’d also love to hear your solution for how you attached the bottom of the scope mount. I’ve never seen a picture from that angle.
The bottom scope mount I just used a 3/4” aluminum rod. There are images showing the underside available if you look on the prop past auction sites.
For the front of the barrel I just used a large threaded bolt. And drilled it out and added an aluminum nose I machined. The threaded side goes into the wood. The bolt had to be turned down and hole all the way through to add my part. Plus drilling a hole through it helped eliminate the weight of the steel bolt.
 

woodywaverider

Active Member
The bottom scope mount I just used a 3/4” aluminum rod. There are images showing the underside available if you look on the prop past auction sites.
For the front of the barrel I just used a large threaded bolt. And drilled it out and added an aluminum nose I machined. The threaded side goes into the wood. The bolt had to be turned down and hole all the way through to add my part. Plus drilling a hole through it helped eliminate the weight of the steel bolt.

Thanks for explaining, I thought it was a found part, it looks spot on, I’ve found things that are close, but never anything that was right.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top