Best weathering technique to cover up small imperfections?

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by helix_3, Jul 10, 2015.

  1. helix_3

    helix_3 New Member

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    I recently painted a large item in a glossy red enamel, and there are a few small patches with bad textures (bubbles, etc).

    The item is supposed to be a metal machine that has experienced both subtle battle damage (impact and/ or flame) and handling damage (dust, dents and scrapes), but not long-term damage like rust. I would like to use the weathering step to cover up the patch of bad textures; what would be the best method to obscure these imperfections?

    I was thinking of dry-brushing/ dry-blotting matte acrylic over the bad spots, in both faded red and steel grey colors. I'm thinking this picture would be good inspiration: http://www.governmentauctions.org/uploaded_images/forklift-786335.JPG

    The matte colors would make the poor texture harder to see, but probably won't completely obscure it. Does anyone have any other ideas?
     
  2. Badgersbunk

    Badgersbunk Active Member

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    The flame damage would be a good way to hide it since paint usually bubbles up some when burnt. I'm kinda new to the damage and weathering though.
     
  3. Redshirt98

    Redshirt98 New Member

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    Weathering is an excellent way to hide minor imperfections up until the point where the weathering BECOMES the imperfection. Many good costumes and props have fallen victim to poor of overzealous weathering. So, take it slow. Weather the prop, but weather the imperfections less. In this manner, the imperfections will get lost in the background. Badgersbunk is right, heat causes blistering. Add some black to your red base coat and go over the bubbled area with a thin coat for starters to make the burned areas slightly darker. Don't over darken these areas though. You could actually get out a torch and really burn these areas if the base material can withstand it. After making your basic discolorations, weather like this:

    Wash: This adds shadowing. Mix up a very thinned out black or dark brow wash. Almost as thin and transparent as something you've washed out a brush in. Preferably your wash is of a different type of paint than your base. You said it was red enamel. I would use brown acrylic over red for the wash. Use a big brush and slather it on. Because it is very thin, it will settle in the low spots and crevices and only add color there. If it is coloring everywhere, the wash needs to be thinner still. Don't wash the imperfections and they won't get shadows that make them stand out.

    Dry Brush: This highlights edges and simulates wear of exposed surfaces. Dip a large and faily stiff paintbrush in white or a light tan. Wipe it off, then wipe it back and forth on a rag until you think it has stopped giving off color. Now start wiping it back and forth over the prop perpendicular to edges and high spots. This is very patient work. If it is depositing the color with streaks or brush strokes, you didn't get the brush dry enough. This is the number one reason behind weathering that looks like crap. Done correctly, this technique adds color subtly to the edges to bring out details. By not drybrushing flaws, the casual eye passes over them.

    Silver or rust: A frequently used helmet or piece of equipment will get chips or rubs down to the metal. In infrequently used piece will have isolated areas of surface rust. Pick your silver or brown as appropriate and add just a few spots. Imagine the piece in actual use and determine where it would get chips or rubs. This is also an area where builders fail. They chip up everything without really considering wear patterns. Elbows yes, insides of wrists no. Your forklift picture shows what I mean.

    Good luck.

    Redshirt98
     

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