Best SmoothCast Resin for Slush Casting a Face Mask in a Rebound 25 Mold?

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jzerot1437

New Member
So I've finished with my mold of my Lich Face and am ready to cast, however the lich has very exagerrated features (deep, recessed eyes, multilayer mouth, etc), which I think means I'll have to slush-cast the mask (by hand, since I down own a slush caster and this is a one-part mold).

To get all of the detail, I'll probably need a longer pot life than the 3 minutes SmoothCast 300 offers--do you guys have ideas on what the best resin would be for casting this mask, given the postive and negative pictured below?

Thanks!
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ChickenHaunt

Well-Known Member
The 65D works well for rotocasting, as it has a "gel cure," rather than the "snap cure" of the others in the series. This means it solidifies more gradually, so it builds up a thickness as you go. I think you'll find 3 minutes is longer than it seems when casting relatively small things like a head.
 

Sinned

Well-Known Member
Second for the 65D. It works great for slush-casting, and also makes for a great mask. The cured castings have just a little flex to them, so you don't get the feeling that the mask is brittle. And, as ChickenHaunt said, 3 minutes is plenty of time to move things around. Once you get the hang of it, you'll sometimes wish it was less.

Here's a general plan of attack that I recently posted to a different thread. You'll have to pay a little extra attention to the deeper parts, to make sure they get coated well, but otherwise, shouldn't be an issue.

Layer 1: 1.5 oz of each part A and B, coat the entire mask as even as possible, and then favor one side, as it's about to set up
Layer 2: 1 oz of each part, coat the entire mask as even as possible, and then favor the other side, as it's about to set up
Layer 3: 1 oz of each part, coat the entire mask as even as possible, and then favor the middle (top and bottom), as it's about to set up
Layer 4: .75 oz of each part, coat the entire mask as even as possible, and then favor any obvious thin spot, as it's about to set up

I wouldn't do a layer with more than 1.5 oz of each part (3 oz total), otherwise you'll end up with an overly thick spot.

I always tint my last layer a dark black, so I can be sure of good coverage around the whole mask, and also when I demold it, I can see any spots which were thin, from the front, which helps me decide how to refine my slushing process down the road.

Don't let the resin fully cure between layers. As soon as a layer has set up, and no longer oozes, start mixing the next layer.

Also, it doesn't matter how careful you are, you're going to get surface bubbles. To fix that, keep a toothpick handy. Once the first layer has completely set (but not fully cured!), go around, and carefully pop them all. Then, when you do the second layer and slush it around, you'll notice that the larger bubbles now have air trapped in them again. Use the toothpick again to poke that air out, and you'll wind up with a much nicer final surface.
 
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jzerot1437

New Member
This advice and walk through is much appreciated! This is my first attempt at mask making in a mold, so I'm a little frightened of screwing everything up (I'm even having visions of accidentally ripping the mold, which honestly feels impossible), so any background you provide gives me much-needed confidence.Should I also coat the mold with a release agent or will smooth cast 65d be okay by itself in a rebound mold?
 

ChickenHaunt

Well-Known Member
Release is always good. I like Epoxy Parfilm (either Ultra 4 or Ultra 3). It's a paintable mold release, so it doesn't leave residue on the cast part (if applied properly)
 

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Mr Mold Maker

Sr Member
Release is always good. I like Epoxy Parfilm (either Ultra 4 or Ultra 3). It's a paintable mold release, so it doesn't leave residue on the cast part (if applied properly)
Off topic, but thank you so much for understanding what paintable mold release is.
Every time I've seen it brought up its been people thinking that once you spray it in you can "paint" it in the mold. :lol

Also thumbs up for Epoxy Parfilm. I know I say it all the time but I love the stuff. I would marry it if I could.


65D is the shizznet. I use the 300 for small things like magnets or greeblies, but you can't go wrong with 65D for bigger things.
 

jzerot1437

New Member
Huge thumbs up to everyone responding here. You're really helping me understand the technical needs of the mask making process (and especially for pointing me to a paintable mold release--I'd read that release sprays made masks almost unpaintable).

Will pick up the Epoxy Parfilm today and give the cast my first shot tonight.

Thanks!
 

Mr Mold Maker

Sr Member
Huge thumbs up to everyone responding here. You're really helping me understand the technical needs of the mask making process (and especially for pointing me to a paintable mold release--I'd read that release sprays made masks almost unpaintable).

Will pick up the Epoxy Parfilm today and give the cast my first shot tonight.

Thanks!


It is really great stuff. While it is a paintable mold release, meaning it doesn't migrate to the piece... I'd still give the piece a good rinse before painting. Better to be safe than sorry. Good luck! :)
 

jzerot1437

New Member
I made three pulls tonight---each one with progressive success. A lot of leftover WED clay came out with the initial pull, which is fine since the character is mangy anyway. The second and third pulls were nearly all white.

11167971_10101449373860383_629604153893418306_n.jpg1476435_364483170414896_7866365822095523879_n.jpg

I'm glad I started with a character that's disgusting and therefore a little more forgiving as far as discrepancies go, but now that I've done mold-making and casting, I think I can move on to more detailed characters now.

Thanks for all of your advice and help!
 

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