epochcraig
New Member
Hello all has anyone used easyflo 120 plastic resin for casting props is there a best way to slush cast with it or a better liquid plastic to use when making plastic cast of helmets thank you
Best plastic to cast with
- Thread starter epochcraig
- Start date
tango'd fett
Well-Known Member
Easy flo 120 is more of a rotocasting resin so 60 would be better if you are slush casting , ie it takes a lot longer to cure and your arms would die !! Do a search on you tube for slushcasting there will be loads of videos there.
I've used easyflo for years and always had great results.
Easyflo 120 is the slowest curing which gives you more working time and 'pot life' with the product.
When using it to slush mold, I always mix the two parts really thoroughly to accelerate the curing process.
Then pour in enough easyflo to easily cover the interior surface of the mold. Rotate the mold around, tipping it just enough to keep the liquid inside the edge of the mold.
Even after you have coated every visible surface, keep things moving to avoid pooling of the excess liquid in the bottom of the mold.
Continue slushing until you see the liquid visibly thicken. Stop before the thickening easyflo begins to 'drag' behind itself. Now let it set, and repeat the process to increase the slush to the desired thickness. Be aware of areas becoming much thicker than others. Leave to fully cure, then demold.
If you're building up more than one slush layer, it's always best to do this when the easyflo is still freshly curing, as it will bond to itself much better and the risk of layer 'delamination' is greatly reduced.
One last thing to remember is that you should always use a good quality respirator, and work in a well ventilated area as the easyflo produces pretty nasty isocyanate fumes.
Hope this has been helpful.
Good luck.
Easyflo 120 is the slowest curing which gives you more working time and 'pot life' with the product.
When using it to slush mold, I always mix the two parts really thoroughly to accelerate the curing process.
Then pour in enough easyflo to easily cover the interior surface of the mold. Rotate the mold around, tipping it just enough to keep the liquid inside the edge of the mold.
Even after you have coated every visible surface, keep things moving to avoid pooling of the excess liquid in the bottom of the mold.
Continue slushing until you see the liquid visibly thicken. Stop before the thickening easyflo begins to 'drag' behind itself. Now let it set, and repeat the process to increase the slush to the desired thickness. Be aware of areas becoming much thicker than others. Leave to fully cure, then demold.
If you're building up more than one slush layer, it's always best to do this when the easyflo is still freshly curing, as it will bond to itself much better and the risk of layer 'delamination' is greatly reduced.
One last thing to remember is that you should always use a good quality respirator, and work in a well ventilated area as the easyflo produces pretty nasty isocyanate fumes.
Hope this has been helpful.
Good luck.
epochcraig
New Member
brilliant thank you for the input thats great
bobatrooper
Well-Known Member
Ive used easyflo 60 a few times and always had great results from it, but I prefer the smooth on stuff myself or you could try this place I found called CFS they sell something pretty much the same and its abit cheaper too, ordered some to give it a try on the gauntlets I make.
Unimatrix01
Active Member
I've recently had a go at slush/roto casting having watched sooooooo many tutorials on youtube and tried EasyFlo 120.
My first 2 attempts came out and remained tacky even a week later but I managed to counteract that with a good application of Talcum Powder....Johnsons Baby Powder actually lol.
My problems been that I tried to cast myself a Star Trek Communicatorbadge using an RTV Silicone mold that I made myself having first made the badge from Airdrying clay....That was NOT fun!!!!
I poured a into 1 glass jar and be into another and mixed in a c jar then stirred quickly for 10 or so seconds and began to pour..........the results were amazing the 1st time as it sset well and looked amazing......I thought I'd make another for my better half and that's where it all went wrong?????
Not, catalising, remaining sticky and so on?????
We've had a virtual heat wave and I was even told off for putting the liounge fire on to try to cure it giving we had a temp of 26 degrees c today it didn't go down a treat and didn't work!!!
This is amazing stuff when it works but needs to be taimed lol
My first 2 attempts came out and remained tacky even a week later but I managed to counteract that with a good application of Talcum Powder....Johnsons Baby Powder actually lol.
My problems been that I tried to cast myself a Star Trek Communicatorbadge using an RTV Silicone mold that I made myself having first made the badge from Airdrying clay....That was NOT fun!!!!
I poured a into 1 glass jar and be into another and mixed in a c jar then stirred quickly for 10 or so seconds and began to pour..........the results were amazing the 1st time as it sset well and looked amazing......I thought I'd make another for my better half and that's where it all went wrong?????
Not, catalising, remaining sticky and so on?????
We've had a virtual heat wave and I was even told off for putting the liounge fire on to try to cure it giving we had a temp of 26 degrees c today it didn't go down a treat and didn't work!!!
This is amazing stuff when it works but needs to be taimed lol
exoray
Master Member
1. First and foremost even though some brands of resin claim to not need it, give both halves a good shake before you pour out...
2. From that point this is how I recommend the mixing be done, it has never failed me as long as you pay attention to the time...
3. Pour side A into a disposable PAPER cup, don't use disposable plastic cups the solvents in some resins will melt them in no time flat...
4. Pour at equal amount of side B into a paper cup
5. Let both cups sit for a minute or two, so the bubbles come to the top... If it's a humid day, I have two small pieces of plexi-glass that I place over the cups during this time to avoid moisture contamination...
6. After the cups of resin sit for a period of time, I take a heat gun and pass it over the surface a few times, this will knock down the bubbles...
7. From this point I do one of two things...
- Pick up both cups, and at the same time pour them into a third container, mixing the two streams as you pour into the new container... I try not to use tall containers as the height promotes splashing and introduces more air bubbles...
- If size permits I will do a pre-mix in the paper cups, pour A into B and give a quick stir, scraping the sides, then pour this back into the now empty B cup and again give it a quick mix scraping the sides... Now take that mix and pour it into the new third container and using a figure 8 pattern give it a final stir
9. Resin mix is now ready to pour into mold...
Do note that the open time of the resin is effected by temps, so cooler temps give you more time... And with the above method you have to be very mindful of the time you are wasting mixing...
I find the local dollar store has a never ending supply of cheap mixing containers, but I recommend new paper cups if size permits...
Smooth-On Smooth-Cast 65D is very good as well for rotocasting.
danbakeronline
New Member
Smooth-Cast 45D and 65D are both great for slush/rotocasting, and both offer excellent impact resistance as well, which makes them a great choice for helmets and armor pieces.
Unimatrix01
Active Member
Thankyou Exoray 
One thing I should have done and as I get older I realise that this is important.
I should have read the instructions first!!!!
After reading them I realised that they recomend stirring for about 1 minute, being cautious and worried that it's cure before I could use it I skipped past that part, stirred for about 10 seconds and that's been part of my problem.
My heat gun died last year but my better half will let me use her hair dryer occasionally....I hope :-S....Thanks for the advice tho It's very much appreciated
One thing I should have done and as I get older I realise that this is important.
I should have read the instructions first!!!!
After reading them I realised that they recomend stirring for about 1 minute, being cautious and worried that it's cure before I could use it I skipped past that part, stirred for about 10 seconds and that's been part of my problem.
My heat gun died last year but my better half will let me use her hair dryer occasionally....I hope :-S....Thanks for the advice tho It's very much appreciated
TMNTRocketeer
New Member
BJB makes 2 resins that I like a lot, and are used by many professionals. 808 is a white casting resin that is really great with minimal shrinkage and can be heat bent afterwards if necessary. For something signifigantly stronger, and superior for bodyshopping, I would say that 1630 is the way to go. It's a dark grey color. Hope this is helpful.
7sinzz
Well-Known Member
Sorry to open up an old thread. But being UK based how does easyflo 120 compare to smooth on 65d?
What product (other than 65d), would be good for this:
xrobots awesome vid
What product (other than 65d), would be good for this:
xrobots awesome vid
