best glue for papercraft (warhammer tank)??

Discussion in 'General Modeling' started by keithktam, Jun 14, 2015.

  1. keithktam

    keithktam New Member

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    I am building an oversized warhammer tank for a buddy, i am using thick card stock using papercraft template. I am using super glue (instant dry glue), the good and bad thing for it is that it dry very fast, so i have a couple of pieces ended up not being placed perfectly...

    I might use UHU glue next time, but before that i really would love to know what other people are using :)

    thanks!!
     
  2. stigmorgan

    stigmorgan Sr Member

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    alot of guys use a hot glue gun for cardboard and foam as it can be heated up and the parts moved if you get it wrong, for paper i use PVA glue (i buy mine from a local builders merchant as it works out alot cheaper)
     
  3. keithktam

    keithktam New Member

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    I see. thank you!!
     
  4. rbeach84

    rbeach84 Sr Member

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    I like using the Sobo brand PVA glue; depending on what you're gluing and its expected longevity, you may want to use glues that specify low or neutral pH (often stated as 'archival quality'). Elmers tends to be more acidic while their 'no acid' glue is actually a bit basic...

    PVA 'tack' is essentially a function of the amount of moisture present in the glue when applied. Thin glues like 'school craft glue' tends to require a bit of 'airing out' to thicken before it really works okay for paper modeling.

    Regards, Robert
     
  5. keithktam

    keithktam New Member

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    something that been getting me thinking while i am doing this project, in situation where i need to get the tabs to stuck together, i still need that super glue, cause the PVA or UHU just won't dry fast enough, i would have to literally hold it for 5 mins in order for the tabs to stuck together..... may be i am using thick card stock for the project, and the two pieces i am trying to glue in tends to pounce back....
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2015
  6. rbeach84

    rbeach84 Sr Member

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    Keith, I know the effect you are noting. PVA has a bit of flexibility even once dry, which is essential with some papercraft models that are designed with less rigid structures - so the PVA joints allow some flex when handling. The long 'grab' time is due to applying the PVA while too 'wet'. You can try this by cutting some strips of a single paperweight and then applying glue of varying viscosity. To reduce the moisture content just let the glue 'rest' on the palette before applying. Depending on factors such as paper thickness, absorbancy, area being glued and initial water content of the glue, it will take different 'rest' times to get the optimal 'tack' in the glue. If you repeat the same 'tests' using thicker or more dense papers, you will get different behaviors. It should be apparent that it take experience to get the feel for this process. Probably, for any given paper model, it would be prudent to use some of the scrap to practice your gluing. I suppose this is why you can call paper modeling an art (among other reasons)! At least, with digital designs you print yourself, if you at first fail, you just print a new copy and try again (I once built four separate 'Tinkerbell' heads - not counting the attempts at the face alone- before I got one I liked.)

    The challenge of building clean paper models is one reason I feel all modelers interested in expanding their skills should try it at least once (I mean, build one, though it may take several tries to get it done!) If nothing else, you can learn a new way of thinking about a physical model...
    R./ Robert
     
  7. RogueTrooper

    RogueTrooper Well-Known Member

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    I tried everything and ended up using hot glue. It has a great combination of dry time, handling and price.
     
  8. keithktam

    keithktam New Member

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    thanks guy!! now i understand the PVA more! will try to use this alternative next time round. the project i am doing now is a huge tank, so much work sometimes make you just want to give up:lol, nut of course i won't stop.
     

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