Best crackle finish?

J

jason1976

Sr Member
I'm looking to do a custom made clockwork man mask from Doctor Who, and I'm having a very hard time finding a good home down crackle finish. I usually get way to big of crackles (too big chucks of paint, with few cracks, etc.)

What is the best, easiest way to get a crackle finish. (like the one found on the original Clockwork men masks. )
 
I guess I don't know what they look like. Is that the same as the wrinkle finish paint? (Probably not, I suppose.)
 
Um anyone? Paint (spray would be best for me but waht ever works best) of does it have more to do with who you do it, then what you use?
 
If you go to the section in the craft store that has decopage (sp?) supplies, you can get a bottle of crackle medium that you can use on any acrylic (i believe) paint. There are directions on how to get different sized crackle finishes. And yes, it's all on how much and when you apply it. You're better off with this, as you'll have more control. With the spray paint sets you're pretty much stuck with how it comes out....and paying a ridiculously high price for it.
 
Crackle finish is just elmers glue. Its applied in 3 layers- base color, glue layer then final color to crackle. The more glue you use the bigger the cracks. Also the direction in which the glue is applied will determine the crackle look.
 
BigGunns said:
Crackle finish is just elmers glue. Its applied in 3 layers- base color, glue layer then final color to crackle. The more glue you use the bigger the cracks. Also the direction in which the glue is applied will determine the crackle look.
Click to expand...

Now that's interesting. So, I put on the first layer of paint. Let it dry. Put on the glue. then the top coat of paint. Do I apply the toop coat of paint wall the glue is wet? Or, do I let the glue dry first.
 
I'm awful with a brushI'm awful with a brush, do you think spray pant, and spray elmers glue, would work? (you know, spray some paint, let it dry, spray some glue, and before it dries spay on the other color of paint.)
 
jason1976 said:
I'm awful with a brushI'm awful with a brush, do you think spray pant, and spray elmers glue, would work? (you know, spray some paint, let it dry, spray some glue, and before it dries spay on the other color of paint.)
Click to expand...

Forget the glue,unless your very adept at this! The easy way is to buy Formsbys crackle finish. This will allow you to paint this without fear of glopping it up! This an enamel,and acryic formula. The other way to do this would be with varnish,then lacquer,as it reacts with the mastic resins in varnish,and/or in enamel that causes the separation between the two! First practice on scrap wood similar to what you're painting to achieve the same desired results! If you can't find varnish at your local store,or paint jobber,then use enamel as this does a great job at wrinkling,and giving that old dried varnish look to it! You'll want to of course use brown enamel,and yellow together to the colour you want,(if this is what the clock looks like)or whatever colour it is,then add this to clear enamel-acrylic enamel will work too until it's the consitency of colour that you desire. Brush it on lightly ot avoid lapmarks from the brush. Then let it dry for a couple of minutes,then spray lacquer over it,and it should wrinkle up the finish like it's a hundred years old!
 
Well I'm working on one of these. (custome made to fit my big head. :lol)

clockworkdude1-1.jpg


So, that's the crackle I"m going for.
 
How about painting it with acrylic paints,then clearcoating it with Dutchboy brand(Kmart)acrylic. Wait for it to dry for a couple of weeks to harden. Then spray it with a can of compressed air! The cold air mixture with cause the hardened finish to crack just like this! You'll want to spray the entire can of clearcoat over it to ensure a hard finish,and enough coverage to cause finish checking. This is what Fender musical instruments uses to recreate finish checking on their relic line of guitars. These are treated this way to mimic years of wear,and tear on the instrument to make it look fifty,plus years old,even though new! You'll want to try this out on scrap first,to ensure even checking patterns,until it looks the way it does on the mask! I hope this helps!
 
Last edited:
Any updates on this project? How are you making the mask?

I would like to make the robot head. Not sure how.
 
Last edited:
Jason,

The product you are looking for can be found described here...

http://www.valsparglobal.com/val/resident/mc_special_effects.jsp

It is mccloskey porcelain crackle and aging glaze that you are specifically looking for. Depending on the base coat color and the specific aging glaze that you pic...(I would assume asphalt based on your picture) you should be able to match your sample.

I have used the product many times in the past and it works like a charm.

Hope this helps
 
SirJediKnightTim said:
Any updates on this project? How are you making the mask?

I would like to make the robot head. Not sure how.
Click to expand...

Well, it's sadly a long ways off. Like most of my projects I start them gung ho, and then the drag out way too long. :(

I want to do the costume, for a local convention in late May. (Marcon) But, I don't have the money to buy the licensed on, and even if I did, I don't think I want to wear a very expensive breakable mask around at a con all day.

So, I am first casting a generic male face, using a cheep Adult Male mask, and art plaster. (I did this part and it turned out ok.)

Then I sanded, chipped, and ground off, all the bits off the face that were wrong.

Next, I'll sculpt on the fetures, and details I want, on the mask. (this will take time as I have little, to no experience with that sort of thing.)

Then I will make a silicon Mold from that, and from that make a fiberglass mask, that I will then hopefully be able to get the right finish on, and then line the inside of the mask with fabric.

That's the plan anyway's. We will see, what actually happens.

I wont be doing a "run" of these, as it is a licensed prop, and I'm sure whatever I come up with not be run worthy as, I'm sure the real ones are fare nicer. That said, I would love to have a clock work head to go with mine, so if mine turns out, and your project works out for you, then down the road, we may be able to help each other out. :)
 
jason1976 said:
... and then line the inside of the mask with fabric.
Click to expand...

How about strips of that thin craft foam? That way there's a gap between your skin and the mask to allow for some air flow, and the strips can be easy pulled out and replaced if and when they get nasty. You risk breakage trying to pull out a whole face sized piece of fabric, and it will get gross faster.
 
TridCloudwalker said:
How about strips of that thin craft foam? That way there's a gap between your skin and the mask to allow for some air flow, and the strips can be easy pulled out and replaced if and when they get nasty. You risk breakage trying to pull out a whole face sized piece of fabric, and it will get gross faster.
Click to expand...

That's a great idea. I was just doing faberic, because the description of the real mask says that's what they did, but I like the foam idea better. :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Best way to clean/Polish This hilt and sheath
Replies
3
Views
236
IFA
IFA
Toecutter
Who makes the best Time Bandits map?
2
Replies
20
Views
1,382
jheilman
jheilman
J
Best Nurhachi Urn
Replies
3
Views
960
juvatwad
J
Turizmo
Best UK Barbasol Can?
Replies
0
Views
446
Turizmo
Turizmo
Starganderfish
Best Hellboy (2004) Samaritan 3D model for printing
Replies
1
Views
1,023
Talisen
Talisen
Back
Top