Best Aluminum Finish Paint?

Mechinyun

Sr Member
Hey looking for some recomendations for aluminum paint.

Going to be covering a pretty large prop with it, needs to be able to windstanding handling pretty well also. Im looking for some really shiny, almost polished aluminum type look. :)


Thanks guys.
 
Anyone?

I know alclad is out there, just had no experience with it and it comes in such a small amount/expensive. I heard it flakes off easy too?

Thoughts on alternatives?

Thanks.
 
I have never had Alclad flake on any project I used it on. Although, I am very meticulous with my surface prep and priming. What are you covering?

JDH

Originally posted by Mechinyun@Feb 19 2006, 01:57 PM
Anyone?

I know alclad is out there, just had no experience with it and it comes in such a small amount/expensive. I heard it flakes off easy too?

Thoughts on alternatives?

Thanks.
[snapback]1188411[/snapback]​
 
I've been simply fascinated with the results from Alclad paints. Holding up to handling is one of their best characteristics. If some chipped, I would think it was either a problem with undercoat preparation or to heavy a single application. That's easy to do because the stuff looks so sweet laying down as you make each pass it looks even better. Takes some self control to avoid build up.

ONLY problem I ever had was being stupid and applying a crap clear coat spray and clouding the finish.:(
 
Aluminum needs an enchant prior to a primer. A mild acid like vinegar will work, but check with a paint store for their suggestions. Aluminum requires special attention for the paint to adhere to it. Put down a nice glossy black then cover with alcad.
 
I think he's trying to replicate aluminum, not paint on to aluminum.

Alclad Chrome will give you a polished aluminum or weathered nickel type finish. I've considered it for a large project too (R2 dome -- that what you're doing?).

Next in line for me would be Testors Buffing Aluminum Plate. Comes in standard rattle can so is easier for large projects, but the finish isn't as good as Alclad.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, keep um coming.

I'm having a rocketeer rockpack painted. Like in my pic over there <--. I am trying to see what options are out there. And yeah I am looking to paint the kit aluminum. Im not 100% sure what its made of, but I think its like a resin/Polyurethane material.

Glad to hear some good stuff on alclad, but I dunno if it would be cost effective considering how big the pack is vs. how small a bottle of that paint is. Intresting that clear coating it would screw up the finish. Didnt know that.
 
Originally posted by moffeaton@Feb 20 2006, 05:40 PM
I'm having my pack plated, then I'm scuffing it with scotchbrite... wheee.
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Wouldn't advise telling the plater that. :D
 
Originally posted by moffeaton@Feb 20 2006, 05:53 PM
They've actually done that before with a Rocketeer pack - they're the ones that gave me the idea ;)
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I hadn't heard of any successful attempts at plating a pack... if you've got any more info on that, it would be greatly appreciated. :)

And I've got Rocketbob's painting tutorial stashed around here somewhere... if anyone would like a peek at how he did his, I'm sure I could dig it up. Life's been crazy, so it might be a day or two before I can get it posted. Heck, maybe Bob will post it up himself. :)
 
Hey man-
If you have that tutorial post away. I dont have it anymore. I could redo it I suppose. I do have pictures of my pack with the "special" paint process. Oh-Ah.

The first shots here are before I brushed the paint.

RBpaint.jpg


pack_1.jpg


pack_2.jpg


pack_7.jpg


pack_outside.jpg


pack_blue2.jpg
 
Originally posted by rocketeer25+Feb 21 2006, 12:12 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rocketeer25 @ Feb 21 2006, 12:12 AM)</div>
<!--QuoteBegin-moffeaton
@Feb 20 2006, 05:53 PM
They've actually done that before with a Rocketeer pack - they're the ones that gave me the idea ;)
[snapback]1189171[/snapback]​

I hadn't heard of any successful attempts at plating a pack... if you've got any more info on that, it would be greatly appreciated. :)

And I've got Rocketbob's painting tutorial stashed around here somewhere... if anyone would like a peek at how he did his, I'm sure I could dig it up. Life's been crazy, so it might be a day or two before I can get it posted. Heck, maybe Bob will post it up himself. :)
[snapback]1189391[/snapback]​
[/b]

Yeah please. If you can dig it up, please post or shoot me an email with it, fen2k@yahoo.com

:love
 
Originally posted by rocketeer25+Feb 21 2006, 06:12 AM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(rocketeer25 @ Feb 21 2006, 06:12 AM)</div>
<!--QuoteBegin-moffeaton
@Feb 20 2006, 05:53 PM
They've actually done that before with a Rocketeer pack - they're the ones that gave me the idea ;)
[snapback]1189171[/snapback]​

I hadn't heard of any successful attempts at plating a pack... if you've got any more info on that, it would be greatly appreciated. :)

And I've got Rocketbob's painting tutorial stashed around here somewhere... if anyone would like a peek at how he did his, I'm sure I could dig it up. Life's been crazy, so it might be a day or two before I can get it posted. Heck, maybe Bob will post it up himself. :)
[snapback]1189391[/snapback]​
[/b]


Can you post the tutorial? please
 
Here is Rocketbob's tutorial as he posted it at Finhead Central.

Okay the nightmare paint process....You basically have one shot to do it right. I repainted this sucker about 14 times. The paint is still a bit to thick, making the rivets a little softer than they should be.
1) I bought this type of Krylon chrome paint in a rattle can.
2) Primed the pack with grey automotive primer
3) Wiped it down with alcohol
4) Here is the tricky part. The pack should be laid flat on the bench. I painted it a section at a time. You can't use any king of masking tape on this paint or it will pull up. So I used white printer paper soaked in warm water to mask off the areas. Cutting out little shapes to make the curves and such. Once the paint is dry you cant paint into it again or it will show.
5) Tack cloth.
6) Paint the panel
7) Play two full games of Pinball
8) Carefully remove the paper without dripping water on the paint. You can not leave the paper on until the paint dries or the paper will dry out and the paint on it will wick through.
9) You need to wait 36 hours between panels. The wet paper will attack the drying paint even the next day, but then it is fine. Paint the rest of the pack. I painted the entire back first to get the hang of it.
10) Once dry, you take one of those paint scrubbing brushes. The brass bristles on the wood handle. Like a big tooth brush. You then brush out the finish from top to bottom trying not to start and stop in the middle.
11) Dust off
12) Apply a smooth coat of Future floor polish over the pack. I used one of those foam chisel brushed used for interior painting.
13) Then paint the gold cones. Of course now you can only mask that area off buy sticking tape only to were the black pinstripe is going to cover.
14) Then mount your grills and such.

Whew. Easy huh?
Things I have learned...
A)Sand paper or steel wool does not work to brush mark. It knocks the entire surface of the chrome down to flat silver.
B) Other brands of chrome paint you cant clear coat. Or if you can the reflectivity is not as good.
C) Real silver plating like anything with real metal in it seams to oxidize once it is brushed.
D) Other paints were to fragile. You could not handle the pack at all. Mine you can pick up and dust.
E) Thin coats are better. The paint lays out flat after a few seconds.
F) You cant paint in to an area that has been painted. You have to do the whole section over again.
G) Over brushing will cause it to look like stainless steel. This is aircraft aluminum, reflective but not chrome. I have an Airstream trailer and have been studying it.

bobspaintcanpic.jpg

The one on the right I used in an airbrush for the grills, radiator, and flaps.

And thanks to Pilot for the image hosting.. :)
 
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