alextalisker

New Member
Hey so I had an idea and am way out of my depth with technical know how, has anyone here had any success layering silver and black cold cast resin to give the appearance of Damascus steel? I’m thinking of making a beskar steel mold and wondering if this would actually work!
 
i think it would be very tricky to get the definition of the lines - might be easier to mix up 2 batches of resin and mix metalic powders into them and then mix the two batches incompletely, streaking it through with a large toothed comb all in an over sized mold then chop it down to size after its cured and engrave or mill out the imperial logo

i'm trying to work out how to do it with a real metal billet though so they clink nicely :)

edit: you know the oversized mold could still have the logo's etc so would only need to chop down the edges

also should say i've never tried it - this is just a idea of how you could maybe do it
 
It might work if you had a special way of pouring the resin, like with a syringe. You'd have to have 2 syringes with different resins, one dark and one light. Squirt out the resin in a zigzag pattern and go 90 degrees with the lighter stuff. But for all the trouble, on something that may not work, you could try painting a Damascus pattern.

TazMan2000
 
easy way, print a damascus template on vinyl, apply that to a block of aluminum, and paint it on. The swords from Spiderman 3 were done this way (yet with the pattern being sandblasted first) with the rubber swords using the vinyl template applique as the actual damascus pattern. Youll see in the attached photo various color and material tests on a sword blank which were sandblast and paint, just paint, aluminum black, just the template with a clear coat to lock it in place.

Or, if you must have it actual cast in color, sculpt your master base, hand etch the pattern in, use black iron oxide powder, graphite powder and whatever color silver base you prefer (aluminum and then tone it down with the iron oxide/graphite) brushed into the mould.

Lastly you could have a lot of fun with Crayola brand crayons. Melt some silver and black in separate cans, I use cleaned out soup cans on the stove top. You should learn a method within minutes of pouring colors in rotation and angling the mould. Its what material I would use if melted parts had to be done on camera in real time. Crayola crayons specifically due to the wax and color content not separating when melted. Other brands of crayons may work but I stick to what I know works.
 

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