Bard the Bowman costume build - The Hobbit movies

Discussion in 'Replica Costumes' started by jessamygriffin, Apr 6, 2015.

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  1. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Well, this is going to be my first time posting up on RPF about a costume build, though I've enjoyed looking at other's works!

    I quite enjoy The Hobbit movies, not least of which because the actor/characters are somewhat within the age range I can portray. Plus, they are intricate and rich with detail, as I found out when I made my Thorin Oakenshield costume and helped with my flatmate's Fili build. But of course this thread isn't going to be about the Thorin costume, there's been several excellent threads on that already!

    Bard the Bowman, bargeman by day and the bane of the Master of Laketown. Definitely a one-coat, single pair of boots character. I liked the relative simplicity of the costume after the Thorin build.

    The costume is mostly done, barring me making longer arrows, the arrow nocks and tips, and the quiver.

    The Cloaks and Daggers book by Weta talks about how Dale and thus Laketown was a mix of people and culture inspirations, which certainly explains Bard's curve-tip boots.

    10717759244_507573fb9c_o.jpg

    The book also states that the boots were adapted from Ugg boots and fancified. The shirt is a rough and loose-woven silk, and the coat was Luke Evan's choice from several costumes they tried. Kangaroo pelts! They shaved down the fur in the back and sleeves so he wouldn't overheat.

    Okay, on to the first piece, going from the boring under-layers on out. The undershirt!
     
  2. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    First layer - the undershirt.

    From production pics, it looks like a mixed grey linen type, and the Cloaks and Daggers book confirms this.
    tumblr_mvwdnxmaq61s2qkt9o8_r2_1280.jpg
    You might think, why is he wearing just a brown sleeveless tunic over this? In all the movie shots where he's wearing the coat, you can see the brown cuffs of the brown tunic sticking out! When he lifts his arms, you see brown, not grey!
    The answer is pretty simple - we see Bard in the movies without his coat just twice - in the scene in Desolation of Smaug when they they bring Kili back to his house, and when the Guards of Laketown come to arrest him.
    vlcsnap-2015-03-27-18h23m56s67.png
    The production crew probably decided they didn't want Luke Evans to expire of heat in his 'roo coat, and the brown cuffs are tacked inside the coat. That leave the question of the armpits, which can be seen when he lifts his arms. They patched more brown onto the undershirt to cover the gaps.
    5063f3dd92736d52057909eaa654fc30.jpg
    Anyway, from detail shots of the shirt, it's your average t-style tunic with a button down front and slits up the sides. The buttons look like either small wooden ones or leather and the top one has a thread hanging off it. There's a small collar.

    For the sake of coolness and because the original fabric looks so wrinkly, I found a nice linen of grey and white threads.
    2015-03-15 14.26.29.jpg

    The sleeves are un-gathered, and for my own comfort I put in under-arm gussets to allow for better movement. For buttons, I cut some leather, punched holes in the circles and water-hardened them with near-boiling water until they shrunk down. I'm not going to post pattern pics for the shirt - it's easy enough to find similar styles on reenactor websites.
    2015-03-16 22.24.31.jpg 2015-03-16 22.24.41.jpg
    Lastly, to cover that under-arm gap, I cut two ovals from the brown tunic fabric I'd chosen, aged them with a bit of paint, stay-stitched the edges because it frays like crazy and attached them with a running stitch.
    2015-04-01 16.22.39.jpg
    Next boring layer - the pants.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2015
  3. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Pants. Like everything Bard has, they are well worn, frayed down to the weave. They have a rough texture but drape well with no wrinkles. Any guess for the fabric content is up in the air - for mine, I looked for something that was textured and close enough.

    B24dyXhIIAETPjG.jpg large.jpg bow2 (2).jpg Bard_12b.jpg

    The pants look like they had a long-dead dream of being dark blue at one point, but age, washing and wear have left them greyish non-colour. We don't get to see how they are fastened, what the waistband is like, which makes it pretty simple. It meant I got to choose all of that. They are big, frayed, dirty, clown pants, lots of looseness in the leg.

    My fabric choice wound up being a light wool that was nubbly. Ideally, it would have been a fabric where I could wear away at the knees, fray with impunity and still leave the fabric intact, but what I found seemed similar enough. I didn't think the wool would hold up to the wearing without coming apart. Plus, being wool, it drapes beautifully and doesn't wrinkle.

    The original colour was a bright blue. A packet of Rit colour remover later, they were a sad grey-blue, with some odd rusty spots where apparently the fabric was reacting with the heat at the bottom of the pot I was using too quickly. Dye removal is a tricky thing, always, and it was just as well the pants were meant to look pretty bad.
    2015-03-29 00.28.46.jpg 2015-03-30 11.26.14.jpg
    I cut clown pants, basically. The waist was gathered into a waistband, and I gave Bard's pants a button-fly with some metal buttons because that's so much more elegant than an elastic waistband. I'm sure Bard's trousers were nice once upon a time. I did use elastic in the ankle for convenience and to help keep the gathering even when I tucked them into the boots.
    2015-04-01 16.21.50.jpg
    Moving on - the brown tunic.
     
  4. Contec

    Contec Master Member

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  5. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The Tunic

    As I mentioned above in the post about the grey undershirt, we only see the full tunic with arms once, when the Guards come to arrest Bard in his house just under 2 hours into the movie. Otherwise, in all the back-stage shots, it's a sleeveless tunic for comfort. The fake cuffs are attached inside the kangaroo coat.

    The Cloaks and Daggers books states the fabric is silk, and boy howdy is that type of silk hard to find in such a loose weave. It doesn't seem hemmed, just fraying away naturally at most of the edges.

    la_ca_0908_the_hobbit_battle_five_armies_193 copy.jpg

    The pattern is simple - pretty much a rectangle with a collar. It has side slits and of course is kept closed down the front with the lacing. Again, the usual theme of dirty, rough, and aged comes into play, especially around the collar and front, which makes sense as the coat would keep the sides and back somewhat cleaner. My version did have front facing of the same wool and the collar is a double layer, which meant the front edge had double the amount of wool to fray.
    B24dyXhIIAETPjG.jpg large.jpg bow2 (2).jpg
    I found yet another nubbly wool in a loose weave that would work well enough.
    shirt.jpg
    Of course, what makes the shirt Bard's is the wear and tear. None of my edges were finished - a straight stitch was run around all the edges about an inch or so in. Then I sat and began to fray, pulling loose threads out and teasing them free with an awl. I also used the awl to pull some snags out from the wool. I used a large eye needle with some of the threads I'd pulled out to stitch and tied a few strands back into the front of the tunic to hang free.
    2015-03-30 20.41.46.jpg

    Ageing was applied with acrylic paints mixed with water and a Febreze bottle. The Febreze bottle worked well for a very fine mist that covered a large area. Extra cuffs were cut and frayed and aged as well for later attachment to the coat.
    2015-03-30 20.41.19.jpg
    The lacing is pretty much a leather strip shoved through the loose weave of the fabric. It wasn't worth putting eyelets in such a loose weave.
    lacing.jpg

    Oh, and the sash Bard wears? I'll mention it here, it's just a small piece that you see in the one pic. Bard's sash - long, brown, frayed, etc.
    Mine - long, brown, frayed etc piece of double gauze cotton.

    Next - the coat. It's done, but it's getting a bit late, I'll post the start pics and the finished pics tomorrow.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  6. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The Coat.

    How I love a long coat. It makes lumpy people elegant, and bargemen into kings.

    Cloaks and Daggers states it is kangaroo pelts, which certainly explains the odd texture of the fur at the lapels vs the collar and hems. I say hems, but it's just pretty much the raw edge of the pelt, hardly trimmed and with some holes, possibly from the tanning process. Or Bard's job.
    10717759244_507573fb9c_o.jpg
    vlcsnap-2015-03-19-20h08m46s208.png
    holes.jpg

    Of interest to me and any other person who would wear this to a convention - the under arms of the sleeves are not attached to the coat, which allows for good movement (Bard the Bowman, after all) and ventilation (Thank you, costume designer, say I.)
    vlcsnap-2015-03-27-18h08m11s68.png
    The pattern is much like any long coat pattern you can get commercially, though a slightly historical pattern would also work, like a greatcoat. I apparently didn't take pictures of the pattern for this as I drafted it, which surprises me and I apologise.

    Bard's coat body doesn't have a single side seam but two (you can sort of see the one seam near the back in the above picture). The shoulder seam is set slightly back, not on the top of the shoulder and has bit of fur stick up. The sleeve cap has large dark hand-stitching showing.

    The skirts of the coat are two pieces per side, with a side seam. The skirts are open in the back. They attach at the waist of the coat body. The lapels are fairly wide, and the collar is shown folded and standing up sometimes, or just flopping down and all over.
    tumblr_mugialcs3u1rp382io2_500_bard.jpg

    As kangaroo pelts are rare and bound to be pricey in Japan, I opted for that fabric... I am not sure what you call it. It's all synthetic. Looks like suede on one side, and has a fur backing. I was pretty stymied for choice and ended up with one with a really horrible, too-fine, and MUCH too short fur on the inside. Soft and white. There was no way it was going to look authentic enough, and thus I turned to second-hand shops for winter fur coats to recycle. Happily, I found one cheap as a clearance.
    2015-03-16 22.25.09.jpg
    Not sure what kind of fur it is - the leather was very, very fine and thin, so much so that it was backed with glued on fabric when I tore out the lining. But it was the closest I could get to the colour and texture of kangaroo. It wasn't enough to line the entire coat. All I wanted was to line the areas that were going to be most exposed - the edges of the coat skirts, the front body, the lapels and the collar.
    2015-03-18 23.03.07.jpg
    After piecing the fur coat and cutting the pattern for Bard's coat, the real fur was attached on the inside of the coat with contact cement (not ideal but it comes in large cans). I actually glued the real fur on TOP of the fake fur, and then began to airbrush and age the fake fur so it wasn't too jarring if it were seen. I will admit, the fake fur painting is one of the weak areas - all the advice I found about airbrushing fake fur didn't work well with this really fine textured fur. It got a but clumpy, and the colour match isn't the best. Oh well, moving on.
    2015-03-26 19.01.11.jpg
    2015-03-19 21.55.22.jpg 2015-03-26 23.53.18.jpg
    Issues with the contact glue - you can see in the right picture that the surface of the fake suede ended up a touch bumpy after the real fur was applied. It's also not as flexible and drapey as seen in the left picture, which didn't have the fur glued in yet. I decided I'd not worry about the bumps, figuring they could be masked with paint ageing. I also decided I could live with the stiffness.

    More to follow tomorrow, mostly to do with paint ageing the coat down to absolute grubbiness and grime.

    The Coat, Part 2, to be continued. Thanks!
     

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  7. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Oh, nice! An actual close-up of the gaiters! I've already bodged together some gaiters, not the best. It is the curse of the costumer to find the detail pics AFTER.

    Now, I haven't tackled the boots yet...

    Thanks so much!

    - - - Updated - - -

     
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  8. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Okay, going on with The Coat.

    Mainly, what happened next with The Coat is a lot of paint ageing, done with watered down acrylics and the Febreze spray bottle. I started with two shades of brown, went on the grey brown and then a weak wash of black.
    2015-03-26 23.53.18.jpg 2015-03-26 23.54.06.jpg


    Stage 2 - Browns
    2015-03-27 18.47.47.jpg 2015-03-27 18.48.36.jpg

    Stage 3 - Greys and Blacks
    2015-03-28 19.51.29.jpg 2015-03-28 19.51.48.jpg 2015-03-28 19.52.10.jpg

    Stage 4 and 5 involved dry-brushing some acrylic gloss to the areas that would have high wear - elbows and underarms, the shoulders, cuffs and parts of the hem. As well there are some shiny patches on the back of Bard's coat.
    vlcsnap-2015-03-19-20h12m47s237.png


    The last touches involved clipping some of the fur on the lapel a bit shorter, airbrushing some whites and blacks into the real fur and wetting and brushing out the fur along the hem edges where it was clumpy. Finally, the brown tunic cuffs were tacked inside the sleeves.
    2015-04-01 16.25.49.jpg
    2015-04-01 16.27.15.jpg

    My coat wound up a bit darker than the movie version, though I don't mind this, sometimes photos end up washed out. Anyway, Bard is a one-coat man who wears it constantly for work etc. I think it ought to be fairly grubby.

    But best of all, the fake suede doesn't look fake at all any more. The partial real fur attachments look well, though I won't be taking any coat-swirling, windy pics for fear of exposing the fake fur bits that don't match up well.

    2015-03-30 20.40.12.jpg


    2015-03-30 20.40.47.jpg

    Next - the gloves and my current gaiters.
     
  9. DJdrummer

    DJdrummer Member

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    As someone who wants to get more into the fabric working side of cosplay, this is so incredible! Can't wait to see more progress.
     
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  10. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    Definitely subscribed! I love what you've done with the weathering. I've got some coming up to do too, and I hope I can do half as good a job as you!
     
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  11. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    I started from the fabric side of costumes, moving to the building side now. It takes mad skills either way! Thanks, glad you like it.
     
  12. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Well, the bulk of my weather work for the costume was the coat, and it's pretty much the same technique for all the stuff I did on Bard. Acrylic wash, Febreze bottle that mists and doesn't squirt to avoid splashiness, and airbrush for small and narrow areas that need more controlled work.

    Granted, I don't know how much of the ageing will hold up on the brown tunic if I put it in the washing machine. There's always a chance of weakening acrylic's bonding agents with too much water; some of the ageing may wash out. We'll see! I think there was some advice about it on airbrush sites, but I can't always get the right materials easily in Japan. Or maybe I can, but my internet shopping/reading skills aren't up to it.

    I guess my advice is make sure you've an excellent spray bottle you clean after every colour and use, and test how it looks and dries on scraps of course. There's tons of painterly techniques to help with weathering and ageing - spongework, brush, dry brush.

    It was nerve-wracking to finally do the coat, but I'm really happy with how it looks. A lot of imperfections were hidden by the paint work.
     
  13. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The fingerless gloves

    gloves.jpg
    gloves (2).jpg
    gloves1.jpg

    Made from a pelt, leather side out and tied off with a thin rope. Your guess is as good as mine on the fur type, but with mine, I decided that some cheap rabbit pelts in brownish grey would be fine. The leather side of my pelts was natural, of course. Sadly, that brings me into an area of annoyance - leather dye.
    I'd bought some brown leather dye at a shop in Japan but it ended up not being right - it was half paint, half-dye and all ugly weird orangey brown. Previously when I'd got leather dye from an online shop for my Thorin bracers and Orchrist's baldric, it was barely sufficient - if it takes four or five passes of dye to get that blue-green I wanted on the baldric, it's not good enough. One ought to have a dark dye that can be thinned out! I wound up using nearly all the bottle on the baldric, just one bloody belt length and I couldn't see myself plonking down that kind of money for a small project. Sorry, Bard.

    Thus, fake it until you make it. As Bard's gloves as as shabby as the rest of him, I decided to treat them as I did the coat. I thinned out a craft paint (from Pebeo, I think) that was good for fabrics or leather and painted the rabbit skins, mixing in some different shades to simulate wear and a bad dye job. The leather lost the suede touch, but that was better than ordering another bottle of half-arsed leather dye.

    Two rabbit pelts gave me just enough to do two gloves, using the pattern here, minus the fingers.
    2015-04-01 01.33.06.jpg
    2015-04-01 01.34.03.jpg
    I used black fake sinew, an awl for poking holes and just a cheap sharp needle to stitch the gloves by hand. Wound up breaking a needle anyway, but since they were 100yen shop ones, I wasn't fussed. It was a great relief not to have to worry about getting very pretty, even stitches for once!
    Since the side seam of the glove shows fur sticking out, I simply overlapped the seam edges.
    2015-04-01 15.13.12.jpg
    I double stitched the thumb piece, as it was going to get the most stress.
    2015-04-01 15.13.19.jpg
    Then I put on the gloves, flexed my hands to see where I'd grip a bow and where creases would fall, wet them down and smudged on some black paint while still wearing them (ought to have put on plastic gloves, though.). The thumb piece would up being awkwardly long and I cut it down. A slit was cut into the wrist and a hemp cord was threaded through - that way, I wouldn't end up losing some piece of string that a person would see and think, "What is this trash doing lying around?" and throw away a costume component.
    2015-04-01 15.17.24.jpg
    And that was pretty much it for the gloves. If anyone makes their own, be sure to mock up one beforehand to check the thumb placement and shape, and make sure it's wide enough at the top to tuck in the grey undershirt.

    For the finished look, all I did was roll back the top to my knuckles, exposing all that lovely fluffy bunny fur. They are wonderfully soft, though tying the cord was a pain and involved teeth. If the fur is geting in the way, you can roll up the gloves a few times, the leather is thin enough.
    2015-04-05 15.34.40.jpg
    gloves3.jpg

    Next - Gaiters
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  14. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    - - - Updated - - -

    Is this double posting, oh why?
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  15. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The Gaiters

    The gaiters are most likely shearling and put together in such a way it looks as if off-scraps of hide were jigsawed together. I can't quite tell whether they are open on the side and overlap, or whether they are just tubes that fit over the boots and can be pulled on together. Ropes tie them off at the ankle and tops.

    gaiters1.jpg gaiters2.jpg
    Gaiters3.jpg gaiters.jpg

    I had some odd greyish brown fur-backed fabric from a purchase that was possibly meant for Bard's coat, but wound up not using because it was too dark. Technically, it's too dark for the Bard gaiters as well, but I went with what I had, being both unable to find a. actual shearling, b. a decent fabric-backed shearling look-alike, c. and not really wanting to outlay more money at the time. I may go back and do them over, if I can score a decent second-hand coat.

    My pattern is more simplified than Bard's, and I will probably go back and rough up the bottom edge with some jagged cutting. I decided to make my gaiters large tubes. Open-sided gaiters that overlapped would be easier to put on and take off. But when I tested the pattern with overlapping on the sides and tied them off, there was too much gapping. Perhaps I just need more rope. Yeah, I definitely more rope. Thicker rope, too.

    The top edge, after I handsewed the long edges so that bits of fur were exposed, was cut unevenly to look more scrappy.

    2015-04-01 20.23.26.jpg 2015-04-02 22.24.14.jpg
    2015-04-02 22.23.41.jpg gaiters.jpg

    So, thus far, the gaiters are not very screen accurate for a variety of reasons. Couldn't paint-work them lighter over the underlying dark fabric, need to rough up the bottom edges more and get better rope. They are functional and most people don't look down much. Perhaps when I get around to adapting a pair of boots, they will. For now, the gaiters are sufficient - they cover up my non-Bard boots and can pass.

    Next - The Bow
     
  16. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The Bow

    From Cloaks and Daggers, we know that Bard's bow was cast in two pieces, assembled and finished and was a functional working prop. It was 2.2 m long, and simple and efficient in design. It also has a nifty braided grip and leather and braid accents at both ends.
    bow6.jpg
    bow2 (2).jpg

    bow3 (2).jpg
    tumblr_ndt4z52B7U1sml467o3_1280.jpg


    It kind of killed me to make a bow that had to be non-functioning. Japanese cons are really antsy about weapons that could potentially harm someone, and some want props that can be broken down into small pieces to bring to the site so as not to alarm people. Well.

    With that in mind, my goals were to A. Make a take-down bow that split in two, B. make a bow that would not, even if I tried, shoot an arrow. At all. Which meant I couldn't allow any flex in the bow at all. So that meant C. To do the action style shots where he's pulling for the stars, the bow would have to be pre-curved.

    Other hurdles - I live in a Japanese apartment complex, and the fanciest things in my cardboard box of tools are a Dremel tool, and a jigsaw and drill purchased at Ikea. So, actual verisimilitude was just going to have to go by the way-side. I decided PVC pipe was my friend, and said good bye to the way Bard's bow has the nice round backside and a flat front and thickened at the grip. In fact, if anyone can point out something that can work, from a material I could plausibly find overseas, that'd be grand. Otherwise, this bow was just going to be a painted pipe.

    I do wish I had a workshop, making props would be so much easier.

    A tutorial on bending PVC pipe without kinking it came to my rescue - tape an end, fill it with sand and apply heat with a heat gun. For my first time, I was amazed how well this technique works. The internet is genius.

    The first go-through wasn't bent quite enough, so I worked it a second time. The bow, before bending, was over 6 foot, making it proportional to my own height. It comes together at the centre with another pipe inside that the ends fit over and a bolt and nut to keep it steady.
    Witness as well the awesome jigsaw work on the ends, done in my apartment with no worktable, no clamps and a stool, doubtless to the annoyance of my neighbours. This is not a pretty bow. This is a bow made under under conditions that would make a shop teacher cry.

    2015-04-02 22.24.52.jpg
    2015-04-02 22.25.59.jpg
    2015-04-04 23.58.36.jpg

    When I had the pipe bent to my satisfaction, I sanded, primed and painted it dark chestnut brown, with some wood graining dry-brushed on in two different shades of acrylic. A last coat of clear varnish later, I was ready to move on to the prettier bits.

    Next - the leather work on the bow.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  17. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    I don't know if it's just me, but I can't see the bow pics. I definitely want to see those, as I need to build a non-functioning bow for a Hawkeye costume at some point and want to see what you've done. I also had the idea to do it pre-curved, but wasn't really sure how to go about it.
     
  18. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    I've noticed that, some of the pics I put up just... go away and leave a link, I can click the link and see the pics but why aren't they showing in the post? It can't be size, the pics are usually only about 500kbs. I'll try and edit it again.
     
  19. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Okay, have tried to edit the post. Just in case, here's the bow progress pics, without the actual movie Bard bow pics.

    bow10.jpg bow8.jpg bow9.jpg

    bow.jpg bow1.jpg bow12.jpg
     
  20. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    That's looking really good! I especially love that you can take it apart for easier transport. I will have to keep that in mind for Hawkeye's bow. I cosplayed as Green Arrow a couple of years ago with an actual hand-carved wooden bow, and transporting it was always tricky.

    Thanks for reposting. :)
     
  21. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The Bow continued

    After the curving and painting was done, the next bit was to add the leather for the grip and the tips of the bow.

    Happily, my father had given me his original 1961 copy of Leather Braiding by Bruce Grant.
    leather.jpg
    It's a really authoritative book, and there's a reprint available on Amazon as well here, if that's something people are interested in. I needed it mainly for the grip and for the Turk's head braid that finished it and the tips.
    bow6.jpg
    I cut some leather thongs from a thin ladies' dress shoe leather that I'd bought cheap and settled in with some elastics and ties to start. Some flat leather pieces were attached with glue beforehand to cover the joins and the nuts and bolts that hold the parts of the bow together, unglued at the tops so I could still bend it back to access the bolts. And the weaving began.
    bow7.jpg
    When I was mostly finished, I went back over the weaving with an awl to lift and tighten the leather so it strapped closely to the bow. This took a bit of time, but I didn't want the leather to be sliding around everywhere. I probably should have started with wet leather so it would dry and tighten even more, but it wound up not being necessary.
    bow6.jpg
    The Leather Braiding book talks about using sinew to tie off weaving of this tight, wetted so it shrinks as it dries and clamps it down. Being that I only had synthetic sinew, I used heavy thread in black, cut off the ragged ends, bent them back and added spots of glue to keep it in place.

    Next was the Turk's Head knots that circled the bow and covered the cut ends of the weave. It's hard to explain the Turk's Head, except to say it's your basic three strand plait but with the ends of the leather worked back into the braid and then cut off so they are hidden and the braid looks like it's all of one piece. I gotta say, it is a bear to do, and my version was not perfect. Close enough, though. Below is one example, before I cut off the re-woven end of the leather.
    bow5.jpg
    However, it was still too loose and prone to sliding, and I was afraid it would slip off and expose the cut ends of the woven handle. My old friend Hot Water came to the rescue, to shrink (and incidentally harden and darken) the Turk's Head knots. It wound up shrinking and darkening part of the grip as well when I poured water over it, which was fine since the leather was a touch too light. The pic below is after the water-shrinking when the leather was still wet and you can see the Turk's Head knot tightened up beautifully.
    bow2.jpg
    Next was the tips of the bow. I'd actually managed to angle cut the tips to be thinner and more like a real bow, but unfortunately it left me with the exposed curved inner side of the PVC pipe. Thank goodness for these tip covers - they hid the essential pipeness of the pipe.
    bow2 (2).jpg
    For these, I wrapped a piece of the same fancy shoe leather around, marked where it should overlap, and hand-stiitched it into tubes which slid over the tips. Again, hot water helped shrink the leather until it was impossible to slide off again. More Turk's Head knots, in a thinner strands and finished with the same hidden ends and hot water finished the tips.
    bow4.jpg
    bow3.jpg
    The string is a round covered elastic I had bought to make hair ties with - it comes in 1 m lengths at the 100 yen shops in Japan. I'll be replacing it at some point with light brown, which is more like Bard's bow string. But for the look of it, I looped the ends, glued about 5 cm and wrapped it with thick yellow thread like Bard's. The elastic here is double looped over the bow tip, but that's mainly because I'm in mortal fear of it slipping off and whacking someone when I pull too hard. The elastic is very stretchy, and even when I pull back with an arrow and release, the arrow just flops. So, it's completely un-dangerous and thus should satisfy any convention management.

    I guess the next part of the build thread will be about arrows, the quiver and boots.

    I have mocked up some arrows, but I need to find longer dowels, sculpt arrowheads and nocks, and dye the feathers I ordered whenever they come in. I can't find brown or rust coloured feathers in Japan that aren't $3+ a feather. The arrows are not going to look very professional, I'm afraid, but since they are for a cosplay with a non-functioning bow and I wouldn't trust the dowels to hold together if fired from an actual bow, I'll learn to live with it. Arrow-making is tricky.
    IMG_2255.JPG

    Ditto the boots - I need to find Ugg knock-offs in my size here. This isn't an easy task.

    None of the above are up for immediate making, so the thread will update sporadically from here on, I guess.

    Next update - probably Bard's Quiver!
     
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  22. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The costume so far:

    Make-up, Costume and Hair test #1.

    pic8.jpg
    You can see the air-brushed fake fur when I open the coat too far. Thankfully, Bard never takes off his coat and if there's a wind to majestically blow my coat tails out, I'll just have to hope the ugly bits don't get too exposed.
    poic6.jpg
    Here's the interior of the coat with that lovely, soft and fluffly clean fake fur. The real edges the coat around all the hems and edges at least 8 inches deep and more on the lapels and on the back slit edge of the coat. I found that the back skirt interior could be seen between my legs, so the real fur covers more of that exposed area.
    2015-03-30 20.42.19.jpg 2015-03-30 20.42.43.jpg
    Other issues I found from Test #1 - the elastic on the bow. With a real bow, when I draw it back, the string pull is even and helps support the bow. But with the elastic being so stretchy, my arm got a bit tired holding what is essential a weight at arm's length with no support. Also, the draw ended up being un-even, even though I'd marked the centre nock point! The bottom elastic just stretched more than the top, probably because I was letting the bow sag against it. So that's something I need to be aware of in photos in the future,
    pic7.jpg
    I'm doing the inside draw like I'm used to here, though most photos of Bard show him doing an outside draw, the back of the hand toward the head and fingers out (to keep his hair and ear being whipped off by the string, I assume. Must be amazingly skilled to get such accuracy when he has no anchor point. Anyway.) I'll need more practice. Granted, I'm not here to discuss Bard's style with his bow - the actor himself said that's what they told him to use as it allowed an deep (and impressive I assume) draw. Well, I bent the bow to look like his, I have to draw past my face in the same style as Bard, though I'm not crazy about it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2015
  23. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Test #2 - Moustache worked out better (it's cut from on old lace beard; ditto the chin patch.) However, I either need to darken my skin tone or lighten the beard, the contrast is too much.

    I also found I need a really opaque black hairspray to fully cover my red hair. So that's progress. Bard's hair isn't black, but I'm reluctant to use a demi-dye, since I'm pretty sure it'd still darken my hair permanently. Thus, in the pics below, Bard has an odd burgundy tint. Couldn't be helped.
    pic2.jpg
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    Pic1.jpg
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    Anyway, pretty happy with how deliciously dirty the costume looks, and am looking forward to making the quiver and boots (but not looking forward to sculpting arrowheads and fletching arrows.)
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2015
  24. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Small informational update from the Cloaks and Daggers books - Bain has the same type of gloves that Bard does, and his are apparently made from a fluffy soft Australian possum!
     
  25. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    Everything is looking really good so far! I'm loving this build. :)

    Are you able to get brown hairspray too? Could you use it over the black to possibly hide more of the red and give a look closer to the colour in the movie?
     
  26. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    I did get this brown spray, two shades of it, a Japanese product meant to help cover up greys? It's what I used for the second make-up test. I think it was just... transluscent or something and just not going to cut it. Sigh. The test failed. That's why they are tests.

    For the first test, I used a black costume/Halloween stuff I got from Amazon.jp, much more opaque. At the same time I picked up what I thought was a brown in the same brand but it wound up being bronze and slightly glittery. Maybe if I spray that over the black and comb through? I don't know. Either I need to read the product descriptions more carefully or I need to shop for colour costume hairspray at an actual shop. Brown would be best, though that black worked out really well for coverage, since I could sort of comb it through. I really ought to have longer hair, but am reluctant to get a wig. It's nice not wearing a wig and sweating to death or suffering the headache of python-squeeze for once.

    I also have some Ben Nye hair white stuff that is people use to colour beards for Santa and similar Bard but for some reason I can't find it. For the second test I just grabbed this old white clown greasepaint and blobbed it on with fingers like a class act.

    For make up test The Third, I'd be trying some actual sideburns and stubble from hair and spirit gum.

    But otherwise, it's not too shabby. If I had hazel eyes too... but no, that's going too far, I hate contacts.

    Glad you like it, thank you!
     
  27. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    I guess being in Japan makes everything more difficult! Sometimes I feel the same about being in Canada!

    I'm lucky for my female Bilbo costume that I'll be able to use my own hair, since it's about the right colour, and has some natural curl to it (and I recently cut eight inches off, which I kept so I can use that for the foot hair, lol). I'll have to do some tests to see exactly how I want to wear it. But yeah, I often have to use a wig. It's always nice to take that off at the end of a con!
     
  28. Kelsohighlander

    Kelsohighlander Active Member

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    This is legit! Well done, and we are deeply impressed!
     
  29. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Thanks! It's been a fun one to put together.
     
  30. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Right, The Boots, WIP

    The Cloaks and Daggers book says this about Bard's boots:

    Bard's boots were essentially Ugg boots, all fur with wrap-around straps. We inset a gripped sole within a camera-friendly leather one..."

    Oh happy day, cheap boots! Adapted boots, with a leathery furry cover! You can see pretty clearly how the Eastern-style curly toe is nothing but the sole leather curled up over the boot itself, which made the making of these fairly easy. The lower leather portion is slightly gathered moccasin-style, to the fur uppers.

    16868456699_beede4e0ff_o.jpg

    With the true spirit of cheapness the filmmakers themselves started with, I figured on just adapting a cheap pair of shoes. Ugg boots are common enough in Japan, for ladies. If only they carried ladies' sizes above 25-26 cm! I found a pair of these terrible crepe-soled suede low boots in a recycle shop for about $3 that needed some restitching on the uppers. They didn't have the gathered moccasin-look of the originals, but I decided I'd rather just use these for ease.

    Since I still wanted calf-length boots to help fill out the gaiters, I cut two tubes of the same material I made the gaiters from and attached them with synthetic sinew. Fur side out for no particular reason - I'm never going to wear these for fashion purposes, they are going to be strictly costume boots.

    2015-04-19 19.11.38.jpg

    Adding to the economy-attitude, there were enough scraps of fur left over from the lining of the Bard coat to cut two uppers. They were attached with some contact glue.

    2015-04-22 20.08.03.jpg

    The new soles were cut from 5 mm dark leather and the smooth leather finish ground away with a wire brush attachment and my hand drill. The same brush attachment ground off the dirty layer of the suede shoes' soles and roughed them up for glueing.

    2015-04-22 20.08.17.jpg

    Hot water poured over the new soles' tips leather side to curl them up naturally. Once dry, I used Shoe Goo to attach the new soles. Hope the Shoe Goo holds up! It ought to be enough for photo shoots and conventions.

    IMG_2725.JPG IMG_2726.JPG IMG_2728.JPG

    Anyway, the next bit for the boots is to trim the sole edges down a bit more and some paint - warm colour for the fur and some light grey-brown tones for the suede and the new sole.
     
  31. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Boots and Gaiters - finished.

    Rather than go to the bother and expense of making new gaiters, I decided I'd just stick with what I'd made and touch them up further with paint.

    I also worked on the soles and suede of the boots to match the production ones better.

    Boots before and after:
    IMG_2728.JPG IMG_2729.JPG

    The gaiters before and after:
    IMG_2737.JPG IMG_2738.JPG
    IMG_2743.JPG IMG_2742.JPG IMG_2740.JPG

    Still not perfect, but passable now.

    IMG_2744.JPG 16868456699_beede4e0ff_o.jpg

    I guess the next build will be the quiver, and then the arrowhead sculpt (sculpting, not my favorite thing). I've run into a snag since I can't get hold of more feathers in a big size for a reasonable price. I've got four arrows made, and had to order some more from China. They won't get here before the event I plan on wearing this outfit at in a week, but that's about par the course. If I've time, I'd love to tackle the spear-size Black Arrow!
     
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  32. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Never let it be said that I'd let lack of the right materials or general ignorance stand in the way of making something.

    The Quiver WIP

    The Cloaks and Daggers book says this about Bard's quiver, that since the rest of his costume was simple and 'drawing on Mongol influences, supplemented the tall bow with a quiver and arrows that had a slightly Eastern character.' (Richard Taylor, Weta Workshop Design and Special Effects Supervisor).

    The quiver has two tones of leather, two short riveted straps with D-rings that support the baldric strap. The extra chunk of leather on the upper shoulder of the chest strap is interesting, looks like something to stop rubbing and chafing. The baldric has a dull brass buckle and a pattern pressed in. The interior of the quiver has some padding to keep the arrows from being too noisy rattling around, always a consideration for a hunter. The shape of the quiver is narrower at the bottom than the top.

    tumblr_mxuz4axt4Q1sml467o1_1280.jpg B24dyXhIIAETPjG.jpg large.jpg IMG_2959.JPG bg_pePGd.jpg

    Ideally, I'd have a nice chunk of med-heavy weight hide that would support itself, unfinished or at least in the right colour. What I had instead was either the wrong colour or too light. So be it.
     
  33. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    I had a nice piece of plain soft thin deer hide that could be dyed down and scraps of heavier leather for the top and bottom of the quiver.

    For support I had thought to use a shipping tube, but it didn't have the right slight cone shape. I wasn't able to find any plastic sheeting of the right weight or size. So I reluctantly decided I'd use Wonderflex to shape the quiver and work the leather onto it. I hate using up Wonderflex for something so simple, but it needed to be done and I don't have the money or time to go and get the right hide right now. The event I'm wearing the costume at is coming up in six days.

    A pattern was worked up in cardboard to check size and length and the leather, Wonderflex and a sheep-fleece fun fur for the interior were cut.

    2015-04-26 20.03.04.jpg 2015-04-26 20.02.20.jpg

    Ideally, I'd get to dye the leather before working it, but I'm still waiting on the delivery!

    The decorative top and bottom in the heavier hide were hand-stitched with fake sinew before the sides closed with my sewing machine. The bottom was done last before I turned to the Wonderflex. It was slightly tricky apply the overlap seam and the bottom with the heat gun while keeping the Wonderflex from buckling.

    2015-04-26 23.50.24.jpg 2015-04-27 11.13.04.jpg

    With that done, I wet the leather and began to ease it over the Wonderflex tube like wrinkly sausage skin. Or whatever, insert rude joke here.

    2015-04-27 11.25.38.jpg 2015-04-27 12.23.01.jpg

    With the leather in place, I wet the hide again and went over it with a heat gun to help shrink it in places where the leather was a bit loose. *Word to wise, be certain to support the Wonderflex so it doesn't stretch or buckle at this point. I had to redo one section twice.

    The last bit of stitching went around the top with another piece at the top to help hide the Wonderflex and give some extra support to the pointy tip. And that's it for today, aside from punching and riveting the straps for the D-rings Oh, and dyeing the hide, and tooling the belt when it finally comes in (hopefully before th event!) I have an extra belt to use if it doesn't, happily. When the straps are down, I can put the sheep fake fur inside and a pad to cushion the arrow tips.

    2015-04-27 12.23.10.jpg 2015-04-27 12.23.22.jpg
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2015
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  34. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    The dye and belt blank came in just in time, though too late in the evening to start tooling the baldric for the quiver without disturbing neighbours. I did manage to get the dye and finish on the quiver. Not as smooth a finish as I could hope on the deerskin. Bard's quiver should look a bit battered anyway - that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

    bg_pePGd.jpg IMG_2962.JPG IMG_2963.JPG

    It's a bit hard to tell from movie or the Weta book which brown it ought to be, I'd hoped for a slightly more reddish tone, but am not unhappy with what I achieved.
     
  35. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    I think everything is looking really good so far. I'm super impressed with how it's turning out!
     
  36. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Not everything works out, I find. I had hoped to save a little time by making a stamp for the leather patterning for the quiver chest strap.

    2015-04-29 12.51.27.jpg 2015-04-29 13.10.18.jpg
    But when I tried it, it skipped around too much (too big?) I cut it down, tried again and it just didn't cut it. Perhaps because it was only wood (working with what I have, as usual), or maybe I needed something to press it like a billy-o into the leather, something industrial and super heavy. Anyway, it saved me not a whit of time. as I had to go over the patterning anyway with leather working tools.

    Well, with that tedium done, I stained the leather (slightly different shade from the quiver, I wound up using three types of leather for the project and they all took dye differently/). The quiver was reinforced at the strapping points and the buckle attached. One quiver, done.

    A good thing about over-engineering a cosplay item - I'll be able to use it for actual archery. I've always wanted a nice quiver.

    2015-04-29 20.05.25.jpg 2015-04-29 20.06.23.jpg 2015-04-29 20.08.32.jpg

    2015-04-29 20.09.35.jpg 2015-04-29 20.09.57.jpg 2015-04-29 20.10.07.jpg

    And that's the quiver done. Next big thing before Sunday - sculpt the arrowheads and nocks. I think the arrowheads will be tricky, I'm worried about the tips breaking off. Sculpey? Cast them in resin? Not bother and carve them from craft foam? Can't decide.

    Still no feathers from the order from China yet. Sigh, I will live with the four I managed, then.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2015
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  37. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    At this point, you're probably further ahead to make foam arrowheads since you have very limited time, and figure out something else for your next event. I'd be worried about Sculpey being too fragile. I'd go with whatever's quickest and least likely to break right now, and make something better later.
     
  38. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    True. I at least need to make nocks, I don't have to make more than one arrow head for posing! Still. I'll have Saturday to fool around with it. I may test one in Sculpey, make a cast of it and mold a resin one just to see what'll work. I know from my flatmate's work with Fili's pipe how fragile Sculpey can be, but it's fine for doing some casting. I also have some polymer clay.

    Nocks first, though! People can see those sticking out of the quiver.

    Just for funsies, I'm also making a normal size Black Arrow to put in the quiver. No time for a full-size harpoon version. Combine a bit of book-canon with movie'verse.
     
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  39. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Bag, pockets real and in potentia, and arrowheads.

    Into the home stretch of the Bard costume, which I’ll wear the day after next. Nocks for the arrows have been made (not crazy about them but good enough, they can be pulled off later if I can't stand them a second longer), the arrowhead has been crappily sculpted and the silicon for the mold has been poured.

    IMG_2980.JPG
    Not necessary for the character but useful for the convention is the shoulder bag. I used some brown wool that I’d picked up as a possible Bard-shirt, but it was too itchy. It’ll be nice going ‘round the convention with a bag that Bard might plausibly use (though cleaner) instead of something modern that would clash. The fur was another thing that I’d picked up for possible use on Bard’s boots, but wound up not using again. Looks fine as a flap for the bag!

    IMG_2981.JPG
    Best of all, I did put a pocket on the inside of the bag. I won’t have to rummage to the bottom of the bag under the fanbooks I’ll buy looking for pens or change. I plan on attaching a pocket to the inside waist of the Bard coat, too. You can never have too many pockets.

    IMG_2980.JPG

    IMG_2981.JPG
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2018
  40. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    I'm super excited to see this costume finished! It's coming together so nicely. :)

    I love having bags and pockets in my costumes! I bought a backpack to use for my Bilbo costume (though I won't get it in time for next weekend's convention, but it'll be great for the one after that). At least my jacket has a couple of pockets in it. I'd like to try to put a couple of pockets in my vest but I'm a novice sewer and welt pocket tutorials look really confusing! I might not have time to figure it out before next weekend. And while I'm currently using a skirt I found at a thrift store (due to time constraints), I definitely want to put pockets in if I end up making a new one for the next con.
     
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  41. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Arrows - Done!

    I've only got five, but I figure that's fine.

    I wound up running out of my usual resin, attempted one out of a puffy resin stuff (so so result) and wound up making one out of hot glue. The big blobby ones are the puff resin and glue gun respectively, but I don't have to pose with those, so...

    2015-05-02 14.50.09.jpg 2015-05-02 17.31.40.jpg

    Since I was determined to have that one black arrow represent Tolkein's book, I did that. I can see I've lots to learn about fletching things, much less one day making a two-sided mold instead of just glueing parts together, but it works.

    2015-05-02 21.57.41.jpg 2015-05-02 21.56.41.jpg

    Off to the con tmrw, no doubt to sweat my head off.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2015
  42. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    Awesome! I seriously need to learn how to mould and cast things. Maybe that will be my summer project. :)
     
  43. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Do it! The actual molding isn't that hard, it's the sculpting that gets me going. Uuuugh. But I'd never have got through the Thorin costume without learning it, and I was determined to have that costume, so....

    Anyway, I found it's worth it. The resin is hardier for things like buckles (not under heavy strain) than worbla or other stuff, and there's the decoartive things you can try.
     
  44. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    I haven't needed it for a costume yet, but it's definitely a skill I want to learn. Also, my husband kind of wants to cosplay as Thanos, so we'll need to cast the facial appliance! But I'd like to start with something a little easier than that, lol. But I will try it at some point!
     
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  45. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Yes, the flatmate and I want to try facial prosthetics too, only hampered by trying to wade through kanji to find the oddball ingredients. I'd love to have a set of dwarf hands, maybe the simian Thorin brow and nose! And there's so much more to try.

    The con ended up being a no go, after all that hurry to get the damned costume done, waah. I woke up in a bad way, definitely a bucket-by-bed day and I'm just thankful the flatmate didn't harass with with pointless questions like, "Do you think you can go?" or even "Should I buy any fanbooks for you?"

    MAN, though. What a let-down, though from what flatmate says, I would have been the lone Hobbit cosplayer there (since 85% of this con is anime related, and not Western fandom.) Well. Small blessings. There's a Western fandom con coming up, though they haven't put out the info yet as to whether they are allowing cosplay (depends on the site they get, usually.) Cross the fingers I get to wear Bard soon!
     
  46. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    Oh no. :( I hope you're feeling better today! That sucks so much. I was really looking forward to seeing the completed costume! But now I guess you have time to finish up some of the stuff you wanted to improve. I hope you get a chance to wear it soon!
     
  47. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    I'm recovered, but boy it was a miserable day. And I was so PREPARED. All the bags and everything needed set by the door, ready to be scooped up and taken on public transportation. I was so happy with my arrowheads!

    Well, I got SOME pictures from before, even if the costume wasn't completed at the time. I have a new moustache set I'd like to try, plus there's the eternal question of the hair spray colouring...

    I think that the next bit to work on would be a the full size Black arrow. I've picked up some dowelling for it already, though now I see the real Black Arrow is actually made of two pieces, I may rethink it. Plus, smaller lengths = easier to take on trains. I've been playing around with wire trying to see how that tip does that odd reverse corkscrew, but no luck yet.

    Plus, I am still waiting on those feathers I wanted for fletching to come from China. I'll need to order in more resin to cast more arrowheads.

    Actually, if I do get to wear the costume to this con in June, I'm thinking I'd better use the last of the grey linen and make a dickey shirt so I don't die of heat. Heck, I could make the brown tunic a half-one - front in brown wool, back in something cool.

    But thanks for coming round to comment, it's been like a cheerleader rah-rah sometimes!

    I'll be leaving the thread open and not changing the title to COMPLETED just yet.
     
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  48. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Got a few pics of the complete costume finally before it gets too hot for it. 26 degrees C, and the undershirt was soaked. I love playing a boy character but not when it's hot and I need that extra layer of a binder, sigh.

    Issues - well, as one can see, the black hairspray isn't cutting it over my red, and it's infuriating. Plus it gets on EVERYTHING. My hair brushed my face, it gets dirty. I touch my hair to get it out of the way or try to smooth it (it's naturally curly and the humidity was not helping at all) and it's on my hands and thence to my face, clothes, camera...

    Need to do #1 - either use a demi-dye and sigh at the loss of red hair, or get a wig and style it. On the plus side of a wig, I can get a lace-front and give Bard the deep widow's peak and squared hairline. It'd also be the right length. Minus - hot. Plus of my own hair - it's mine. Minuse - I have to use a straight iron to take some of the curl out and a bunch of product to avoid pouf and frizz.

    #2 - just sew the gaiters on the boots. It'll be easier.

    #3 - Got the feathers in for more arrows! So order more resin to make more of those and replace the blobby two of the five I'd made, the glue-gun glue versions.

    #4 optional - make a version of the brown tunic and grey undershirt, with the brown wool only in front and cotton behid for coolness, with the grey linen as a fake collar attached on the inside for when I do cosplays in overly hot halls.

    Otherwise - pretty happy with it.

    Pics taken in and around Odaiba, Tokyo. It's not very Middle-Earth, but we do what we can.

    IMG_05481.jpg 2015-05-16 14.46.54 (2).jpg IMG_0438.JPG

    Am so happy with the quiver. It is the icing on the cake. The perfect accessory.

    IMG_05791.jpg
    IMG_0531.JPG IMG_0537.JPG

    Right! The end! Unless I actually do get that wig.

    Thanks for reading along!
     
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  49. Yrien

    Yrien Well-Known Member

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    That looks so phenomenal. :)

    I'm in the wig camp, personally. I know they're hot, but you can get them to look exactly how you want (e.g. lacefront with the right hairline, and then styled) and not have to worry about them again! Well, maybe some minor styling again later, but since I'm so bad at styling my own hair I really prefer being able to style the wig on the wig head, where I can see all the way around it (instead of trying to figure out the back of my own hair!), then I can just pop it on when I do the costume, instead of having to dye/style my own hair. To me, a bit of work ahead of time to get the wig ready is quicker in the long run than having to do my own hair every time!

    I hope you can figure out some way of keeping cooler too. I haven't done any particularly warm costumes yet (though that fake leather coat for my X-Men: Days of Future Past Quicksilver was hotter than I had expected!).
     
  50. jessamygriffin

    jessamygriffin Active Member

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    Well, it may be that I do get a wig. Besides the hairspray annoyance, there's the grey he has, which needed to be painted in as well.

    Thanks for hanging in and commenting!
     

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