Bandai release schedule
- Thread starter TazMan2000
- Start date
Thanks for posting this mate.
Need to watch it again in less of a rush but didn’t quite get it on the first watch through.
Last edited:
He shows it in episode 2, not 2.1 which was linked.
Correction, he shows something in episode 2.1 with clear red paint, but shows more detail in Episode 2.
jthornton1993
Member
Still waiting on a 1/72 ARC- 170 
ggriffaw
Sr Member
I just wish I could read the text in the videos.
Analyzer
Master Member
that could be one way to do it, you would put less light blocking on those areas
jusdrewit
Sr Member
So I'm really leaning towards the non lighted SD now as it seems like the holes are predrilled. Does anyone recommend a relatively cheap Led kit that could do a decent job or just scour fleabay for one? I can't see spending $140-150, double the price of the non lighted version.
Fett_Ish
Sr Member
I had an idea on this as I also think the windows are too big. Smaller fiber than the hole white glue to secure fiber and fill hole, paint an viola smaller windows. It seems the fibers just need to be long enough to get into the hull and to cut off from the outside after painting. Still not enough windows, but it saves drilling. They may seem too far apart now, but its a trade off I suppose. Thoughts?
Analyzer
Master Member
If you want easy and about as plug and play as it gets for a decent price, I would probably just get some pre-wired LEDs
I've usually get stuff from this place
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I'd go with a miix of warm white's and cool white's. Maybe one red
...as well as a few flickering cool whites and/or blues for the engines
Flickering Miniature LED
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you get choices to run off of 3 volt battery, 5 to 13 volt battery/transformer if you like to plug it in) or 7 to 19 volt DC
With something needing that many LEDs, I would go for the "5 to 13 volt" option and pick up one of their adaptors/transformers to power them.
Regulated 12 Volt DC Power Supply
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You could also run it from a 9 volt battery
Richard Baker
Sr Member
Any windows are going to seem too big since the huge filming model also used fiber optics to create them
Well, as of last night having seen the holes in person, I'm thinking maybe they aren't too big after all. I think the light sources are just "blooming" in the photography making them seem bigger than they are. I think I may just leave them as is, but figure out a way to put some kind of diffuser material behind them to lessen hot spots.
As to the number of windows, it looks like there are indeed less than the ESB Star Destroyer. But if you look at Rogue One, those have far fewer windows (I know they are a different class). I may drill in some more windows, I may not.
The only lighting not covered in the kit is the trench self illumination spotlights. Think similar to the Enterprise self spots. Perhaps one could run a much thicker fiber optic out to the trench from one of the LEDs to add in this missing light.
INVAR
Sr Member
That is precisely what the fella in the video I linked to above had done for his red windows. He inserted 3 cm length .5mm fiber into the holes, glued them and pushed them flush against the plastic. He then simply glued the strand on the inside facing the direction of the LED light source and painted the end of the strand red. I supposed you could employ that same method for all the holes to opaque the windows to cut down on hotspots. It looked like he was using .5mm fiber which may indicate the size of the holes. Hopefully I will find out myself soon when my kit shows up today.
INVAR
Sr Member
Very happy to see my delivery guy this morning:
First thing I noticed upon opening the kit - is that the upper and lower hulls ARE NOT taped to cardboard as a lot of unboxing videos from Japan have showed. My kit had them loose in the clear mylar bags:
I do not know if that will in any wise lessen the warping of the bow in a lot of the builds I have seen. Thanks to what Wolfy762 has shared with his kit, I may employ the same method of shaving down the pegs and gluing the hulls and using clamps for the final assembly.
The level of detail on this kit is unbelievably OUTSTANDING and dead-balls accurate in most places I have glanced over. I can say that as an amateur expert given the couple of years I have spent staring at High-Res pics of the ILM 8 foot model and carving styrene details to put on the comparably plain Zvezda. This photo does no justice to the level of minuscule detail and depth Bandai has managed to obtain on a kit at this scale:
For shiggles and mirth here is the same exact section on the larger scaled Revell 'build and play' model toy:
And here is the same section I carved up and built on the Zvezda:
Looking at the holes pre-fabbed into the kit - I tried to thread a strand of .5mm fiber and a .25mm fiber strand. The holes are likely .30mm to .35 mm because the .25mm fiber threaded just fine and was loose in the hole, the .5mm is too big.
Since I am using a majority of .25mm fiber on the Zvezda, the Bandai will appear to have much larger holes in comparison and likely make the finished scale look smaller - but as far as aesthetics it will still pay off the illusion very well with .25mm fiber.
So, on opening the box and looking at the details, seeing about the holes - I am very excited to get into this build. Thanks to everyone who has been sharing their reviews and suggestions of approach on this kit.
First thing I noticed upon opening the kit - is that the upper and lower hulls ARE NOT taped to cardboard as a lot of unboxing videos from Japan have showed. My kit had them loose in the clear mylar bags:
I do not know if that will in any wise lessen the warping of the bow in a lot of the builds I have seen. Thanks to what Wolfy762 has shared with his kit, I may employ the same method of shaving down the pegs and gluing the hulls and using clamps for the final assembly.
The level of detail on this kit is unbelievably OUTSTANDING and dead-balls accurate in most places I have glanced over. I can say that as an amateur expert given the couple of years I have spent staring at High-Res pics of the ILM 8 foot model and carving styrene details to put on the comparably plain Zvezda. This photo does no justice to the level of minuscule detail and depth Bandai has managed to obtain on a kit at this scale:
For shiggles and mirth here is the same exact section on the larger scaled Revell 'build and play' model toy:
And here is the same section I carved up and built on the Zvezda:
Looking at the holes pre-fabbed into the kit - I tried to thread a strand of .5mm fiber and a .25mm fiber strand. The holes are likely .30mm to .35 mm because the .25mm fiber threaded just fine and was loose in the hole, the .5mm is too big.
Since I am using a majority of .25mm fiber on the Zvezda, the Bandai will appear to have much larger holes in comparison and likely make the finished scale look smaller - but as far as aesthetics it will still pay off the illusion very well with .25mm fiber.
So, on opening the box and looking at the details, seeing about the holes - I am very excited to get into this build. Thanks to everyone who has been sharing their reviews and suggestions of approach on this kit.
Dmitriy311
New Member
even though I have 4 sets from a Zvezda and one from a Bandai - I'm not sure I'll ever have the patience to do that from a Zvezda. your skill and patience are admirable!
Great pictures Invar!
They demonstrate why Bandai needs to produce a 1/2500 Star Destroyer next.
Zvezda was cool, but next to Bandai's smaller kit, it is a dead thing.
COlson
Well-Known Member
At 1/2500, Bandai would just be phenomenal. I was SOOOO looking forward to their supposed 1/1700 studio scale SSD they showed a couple years back. Wish that would've come together.
robn1
Master Member
If they do I hope it's the Rogue One version. It's close enough to pass as the ANH, but detailed enough to look good on display.
Zombie_61
Master Member
You mean SD right? At 1/1700 an SSD would be gigantic!
Was that model not the Randy Cooper kit at any rate? I always thought it was like the huge Vader TIE. That is, just a showpiece and not meant for production.
