AVP Armor Templates By VinMan
- Thread starter VinMan
- Start date
bizenboat
New Member
I'm making some right now from 1/8th inch thick sintra here is a link to the shoulders I have done up already.
http://www.thehunterslair.com/index.php?showtopic=20130
Don't knwo what to tell you about the foamies..try searching I swear someone said what they are actually called somewhere I just can't recall cause I haven't used them.
I can't help with the Sintra question, but I can help with the "foamies".
"Foamies" are sheets of EVA foam that you can buy in craft stores like Hobby Lobby, Michaels, etc. You can get them in 8.5x11 or 12x18 sheets in 2 or 3mm thickness. You can get them in large rolls of 2mm thickness. You can get them in every color of the rainbow. You can get them cheap.
Thanks to both of you. I think I was expecting the foamies to be something sturdier, like the name was deceiving. I didn't think flexible foam would make a good medium for carving/detail. But what do I know? lol.
I work in graphic design, so I know Sintra. We use the 3mm stuff all the dime for displays and headers. This stuff just looked so detailed, I thought it might have been thinner stuff...
I've never tried shaping Sintra. I'm a little wary of throwing it in the oven (I envision melted plastic dripping from the racks), so I wonder, can it be shaped just as easily with a heat gun? Or is it tough enough that it needs the boiling water or high oven temps?
I work in graphic design, so I know Sintra. We use the 3mm stuff all the dime for displays and headers. This stuff just looked so detailed, I thought it might have been thinner stuff...
I've never tried shaping Sintra. I'm a little wary of throwing it in the oven (I envision melted plastic dripping from the racks), so I wonder, can it be shaped just as easily with a heat gun? Or is it tough enough that it needs the boiling water or high oven temps?
Another couple questions I have are regarding adhesive and filler. What are you using to glue the Sintra together? Any specific kind of adhesive or epoxy? And for pieces like the breast/back plate, where there is large relief creaced by angled supports, what do you use to fill in any hole/gaps in the armor?
I love boards like this. Without them, so many of us would be clueless!!
I love boards like this. Without them, so many of us would be clueless!!
bizenboat
New Member
heat gun is the way to go it's amazing, even on the low setting on my cheap $20 two speed heat gun it gets bendable withing seconds of direct contact. And I don't think people use the foamies for sturdiness its because its so easy to cut and shape you don't really need any tools. And it might look like a collage of random colors when you make it, but after you weather it and finish painting it foamy armor/accessories can look amazing. For mine i'm going to rivet them together so they can move a little, but I'm pretty sure most people just hot glue them together. and as for the support parts I think on one of those 8 chest templates there is a description and instructions for that part, connect the top of the pec armor first then cut the supports as needed for filler.
hope this helps,
bizen
Hey There Vinman
Huge thanks for the templates, looking forward to having a play with some variations.
I noticed your comments on AVP shins and after searching (without finding) for your suggested shins, I wondered if you remember the link ??
I was wondering of these could be made the same way as I would make historical greaves, i.e closed 2 part with hinge... which looks possible, however as with historical greaves the problem is normally brusing on your ankles
Anyhow, thanks again for the templates, vertainly saved many hours of tracing and re-tracing.
Alex
Huge thanks for the templates, looking forward to having a play with some variations.
I noticed your comments on AVP shins and after searching (without finding) for your suggested shins, I wondered if you remember the link ??
I was wondering of these could be made the same way as I would make historical greaves, i.e closed 2 part with hinge... which looks possible, however as with historical greaves the problem is normally brusing on your ankles
Anyhow, thanks again for the templates, vertainly saved many hours of tracing and re-tracing.
Alex
OK, sorry to ask again, but what sort of adhesive do most people use for the Sintra? I'm afraid Hot Glue would come off too easily. I thought of something like Goop or Gorilla Glue, but I know some of those with actually break down Sintra, because it is acidic...
Also, I have a little experience with metal articulated armor, but I'm thinking most of these pieces are assembled differently. More for looks than functionality and durability. So for the articulated sections (like arms/shoulders and all the lower body stuff, how are folks doing this? Connecting the plates to an underlying piece of fabric or leather, like plate armor? Or are you connecting them to each other, on swivel points, like classical armor?
Sorry for all the silly questions. I just want to know as much as possible before diving in. Thanks to all!
Also, I have a little experience with metal articulated armor, but I'm thinking most of these pieces are assembled differently. More for looks than functionality and durability. So for the articulated sections (like arms/shoulders and all the lower body stuff, how are folks doing this? Connecting the plates to an underlying piece of fabric or leather, like plate armor? Or are you connecting them to each other, on swivel points, like classical armor?
Sorry for all the silly questions. I just want to know as much as possible before diving in. Thanks to all!
Sintra is PVC, so you can use PVC cement like the kind used to assemble PVC plumbing. Make sure to get both the primer (cleaner) and the adhesive.
Vinman, cool templates thankyou, printed up today and will start playing with them backed on card first to check sizes.
Just in case any Uk members haven't found out (am sure you all have) Sintra is called Foamex in the Uk and is used sometimes by sign companies... They gave me 2 thicknesses and I'm waiting to find out their trade suppliers for the Uk.
I got some cast off bits today for free and tried Vinmans dipping fir 30-40 sec and I'm blown away by this stuff.... Tried it with a simple strip and bent with ease, I think the secret is to get it formed quickly though then dunk in cold water.
I've made traditional historical armour in metal, leather, PU & Latex but this stuff could be the answer to my prayers for years....
I know I'm the noob here but thanks.
Just in case any Uk members haven't found out (am sure you all have) Sintra is called Foamex in the Uk and is used sometimes by sign companies... They gave me 2 thicknesses and I'm waiting to find out their trade suppliers for the Uk.
I got some cast off bits today for free and tried Vinmans dipping fir 30-40 sec and I'm blown away by this stuff.... Tried it with a simple strip and bent with ease, I think the secret is to get it formed quickly though then dunk in cold water.
I've made traditional historical armour in metal, leather, PU & Latex but this stuff could be the answer to my prayers for years....
I know I'm the noob here but thanks.
I like the idea of movement too. The exception maybe being the thigh pieces. Those things look wicked tough with that cool backing, and they don't really need to move. I was thinking of leather strips, or possibly even nylon, as you would find for straps of backpacks and such. It just so happens I work for a bag manufacturer! I was going to try pop rivets for attachment. Worked in my SCA days! I don't like the idea of them poking through the back, though. I may end up putting grommets in the leather or nylon and attaching the plates via some sort of cord.
I'm about to start on mine, trying with a heat gun rather than boiling. I'm hoping the heat gun will allow for more strategic bends, like heating up the middle section to make a nice, defined line..
I'd still love to know what people are using for filler in places where there are holes. Some sort of clay or putty? Anyone?
Also, for the breast pieces, how did you manage such perfect curves? and make all the curves mirror each other? That part throws me... Of course, this IS my first build! lol
I'm about to start on mine, trying with a heat gun rather than boiling. I'm hoping the heat gun will allow for more strategic bends, like heating up the middle section to make a nice, defined line..
I'd still love to know what people are using for filler in places where there are holes. Some sort of clay or putty? Anyone?
Also, for the breast pieces, how did you manage such perfect curves? and make all the curves mirror each other? That part throws me... Of course, this IS my first build! lol
Mmm I'm no expert but I guess you need a nice selection of formers handy before you start heating as I reckon it cools quickly. I like the idea of local heat with a gun, I guess you could get some good shapes, I think planning is key with this stuff.
Stupidly I did just realize the top bells need to be ridgid though because of the side plates (not on first photo) but the plates below could articulate.
Filler wise I'm guessing car filler ??
Stupidly I did just realize the top bells need to be ridgid though because of the side plates (not on first photo) but the plates below could articulate.
Filler wise I'm guessing car filler ??
Yeah, I'm guessing auto filler as well. But man, that stuff is rank! Ventilate!!!
The vent plates for the shoulder bells are interesting. They may be more screen accurate, but I like the idea of flexible spaulders, rather than a rigid piece. I may go that route, and only use the vent plates if the spaulder design doesn't work out...
I'll see how the heat gun works. I do like the idea of more surgical heating, but it may be a total failure! lol
The vent plates for the shoulder bells are interesting. They may be more screen accurate, but I like the idea of flexible spaulders, rather than a rigid piece. I may go that route, and only use the vent plates if the spaulder design doesn't work out...
I'll see how the heat gun works. I do like the idea of more surgical heating, but it may be a total failure! lol
bizenboat
New Member
Hey there reaver, here's a pic of mine I riveted them together, very sturdy, but even with a half inch rivet they unfortunately don't have any play and are basically stuck like this unless i physically move them, like I mean they won't move and articulate while i'm walking but i could move them flat or curved with my hands.
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