Limited Run As-Production-Made Obi-wan ANH Stunt Hilts (Foundry Cast Alu)

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PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Edited:11/05/20 - More readings about my findings and experiences (and a little more photos) are logged here in my build and research thread.

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The Roots

This idea originally grew from my thread where I was experimenting with sand casting and, what started as a "living history" idea, had quickly escalated into me reverse engineering the original wood buck, getting the buck 3D printed, casting numerous trials, before finally achieving my first prototype as a proof of concept.

The whole point of this project was to create---to the best of my abilities---the closest facsimile of the original prop. While I am interested in trying to get both the V2 and V3 as accurate as I humanly can, I'm more interested in it being faithfully and authentically recreated and as well as I can accomplish it.

....I want the original stunts used by Alec Guinness during the filming of STAR WARS...

That's why I've gone through all the trouble of following the same steps the original prop guys did when they made the stunt props all those years ago: making the master (buck), sand casting, and then cleaning and milling out the innards of the aluminium casts. In lieu of what we don't know, I have filled the gaps with how I think they would've been constructed given the information we now have about them and what my trials have resulted. Slap-shod method and all.

The Plan

The general construction, I believe, is four separate pieces for the V2 and three separate pieces for the V3:

  • Emitter nipple (V2): A separate piece that seats the stunt/effects blade(s) and secures the emitter to the hilt.
  • Emitter: A near solid piece that held the nipple.
  • Hilt: The body on the V2 is partially hollowed out to make the "chamber" (as our own B. Alinger puts it) that once housed the motor assembly. I believe that the V3 may not have been bored out as extensively for this function.
  • Pommel: Also partially hollowed out to make room for the wire(s) that connected the motor assembly to an external battery pack.

Below are basic diagrams of the how I think the V2 and V3 are currently put together, based on what have been said by the owner of the V2 prop, as well as details recollected in Jon Bunker's diagram of the original sp/fx hilts.

Possible V2 Construction.jpg
Possible V3 Construction.jpg



The Run

This run is really just for me to recoup my expenses, so it's going to be a very limited amount that I'm looking to make. Being it's just me making these things---to spec and every component, by hand---and as labor-intensive as this method has proved, I'm looking at a turnaround time at around a month or a month and a half per run, depending on how many people are signed on.

Options & Pricing:

I'm going to be offering three variations: The Raw Cast, The V2, The V3 (Current or Stunt). These will only be sold as kits. THESE WILL STILL REQUIRE CLAMPS, LEVERS, D-RINGS, AND CARDS, and PAINT AND FINISHING to COMPLETE THEM. These are handmade items, from start to finish, off of casts that are as perfect as I can get but, as it is their nature, each piece will be accurate but unique. No one will be exactly the same as another.


1) "BLANK" Raw Cast - 280 USD Shipped US / 300 USD Shipped INTERNATIONAL

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As it's pretty much explained in the name, these are essentially "as-is," straight-from-the-mold pulls. These are made as close to humanly possible to that of the original casts in existence. Extensive research was done to get the measurements as close as I can get to the wooden master used to cast the first casts in 1976. They may have some light cleaning on my part if there are gaps or over filling in the seams. By the very nature of making these, there will be slight variations in every cast. Some will be a duller grey in color, some will be lighter; some may have small pockmarks/blow-holes on the surface, others not at all.

As I make these, I will make sure for that for each cast, whether it's for display in one's collection or if you want to try machining it yourself, they will be as close to perfect as can be.

**** I will caution those who are interested in machining these on your own, that you have to be a fairly skilled and competent machinist. I recommend that you take the risks if you are an advanced machinist only!****



2) V2: 520 USD Shipped / 540 USD Shipped INTERNATIONAL

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Close to a "holy grail" for me, the V2 is something I'm serious about making as dead-on, balls-accurate as I can make. There are some things that I've had to fill in the gaps for, just due to there not being enough information available on them, but I feel these are as close as one can get considering.

These kits will come as you see in the pictures. They will come with seperate pommel, emitter, and nipple; along with the steel rod, a machined transcriptor knob, made as the vintage ones were (knob comes with a grub screw). Grub screws and appropriate holes will come ready-in-place. You will need to source the "mystery chunk."



3) V3 (Current or Stunt): 480 USD Shipped / 510 USD Shipped INTERNATIONAL

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It's up for debate as to how the V3 was ultimately constructed, but based on what we currently know and my experiences machining them, this is my offering.

A minimally-machined piece, the V3 is essentially a cleaned-up raw cast. This will come with seperate emitter and pommel. That's it. It will have a half-bore of the V2, as there is little indication it was ever machined to house an internal motor assembly. Holes will be ready set and it will have all the accompanying grub screws, and the steel rod. As it was originally a stunt hilt, it will sport a recess in the lower half of the windvane "neck" like the V2.

For the "Current" option, the hilt will be as described above. The emitter will be a lightly machined emitter taken from a raw cast.

For the "Stunt" option, the hilt will be machined exactly the same as the "Current" option, only minus the grub screws in the emitter and windvane, and will come with a different emitter; one similar to that of the V2 only minus a recess in the emitter (pictured immediately below). This is the current belief of what the original V3 emitter was like based on comparisons between the resin casts of the V3 for the R2 air-cannon gag, and that of the current V3; the details of either emitters do not match.

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The goal is to make the most accurately made stunt hilts ever produced, and this run will continue to update, as long as it is still running, as new information is discerned and revealed.


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I NEED SERIOUS BUYERS FOR THIS RUN TO HAPPEN

1st Run:
1) Steven Giunta - V3
2) Thd9791 - V2
3) veektohr - V2
4) ataru72ita - V3

2nd Run:
1) Dewy - V3
2) Moet19 - V3
3) Moet19 - Raw
4) Mr. Mold Maker - V2

3rd Run:
1) Dewy - V2
2) Poikilotherm - V3
3) Skoota73 - V3
4) zachman8910 - V3 (Stunt)

4th Run:
1) Halliwax - Raw
2) Halliwax - Raw
3) Dewy - Raw
4) thd9791 - V3 (stunt)

5th Run:
1) steven giunta - V2
2) v312 - V2
3) DannyP91 - V2
4) DannyP91 - V3

6th Run:
1) Shermin Archibald - V2
2) LTSmash1200 - V2
3) Moet19 - V2
4) Moet19 - V2

7th Run:
1)
2)
3)
4)

It's first come, first serve. So, anyone interested, please comment below and I'll add you to the list.
 

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teecrooz

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Following with interest!

I would say that the nipple doesn’t go quite so far into the emitter (see V3 hole depth) but I agree with the general construction.

Did you upscale the model at all to account for shrinkage and then subsequent machine cleanup?
 

PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Following with interest!

I would say that the nipple doesn’t go quite so far into the emitter (see V3 hole depth) but I agree with the general construction.

Did you upscale the model at all to account for shrinkage and then subsequent machine cleanup?

Yep. All that's been taken into account. I made my 3d model roughly 1.5~2% larger than what is in the image to account for both the clean up work on the 3d printed piece, and the shrinkage that will occur during the casting process, and the further shrinkage from machine work.

As far as the V3 depth goes, this is how I see it in my head with the current construction set-up I have in mind.

SharedStuntTheoretical.jpg
 

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PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks! I've not got any word on the print yet but it should be printing soon (they said it'd be around the 1st of June when I'd get any updates on it). Currently looking at what options are there for lathes and mills that I can afford to handle a project like this.
 

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Sixth Element

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Awesome! I for one would be interested in a raw casting with no machine finishing work at all. We already have good versions of the V2 and V3 from Starkiller and Spirit. I think a raw "Proto saber" would be perfect.
Don Mac.
 

PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Awesome! I for one would be interested in a raw casting with no machine finishing work at all. We already have good versions of the V2 and V3 from Starkiller and Spirit. I think a raw "Proto saber" would be perfect.
Don Mac.

Dunno if that may be an option, but I have and will consider it further, if I can manage really clean pulls. Most of my trials give casts with some overfill/edge deformation (but gone once machined).

Really, I just want a version of this prop that's as close to the original as possible.

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Very excited to see this coming together!!!great work!!

It's even further along now. I'm currently figuring out how to work my current test cast. Although, it's not going as well as the casting went. It's all very much a learning experience.:wacko

May dress my test-prototype up as the SS/Resin-Air-Cannon and throw it up on the Junkyard once done to fund the next castings.
 
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PoopaPapaPalps

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So, I'm officially opening this up for a run, but I can't seem to change this thread from an "Interest" one to a "LTD Run" one, right now.

EDIT: Alright, got it. I just had to switch from Chrome to Edge to do the change. Anyone else having problems with Chrome blocking the edit page?
 
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