:thumbsup ,Roger. (I wish they had a hi-five emoticon.
Anyway, Our Story:
Time for more surgery. Enlarge this hole to fit your Side Knob. Instead of opening it up evenly all around the hole, you want to open it up more toward the top and rear.
Leave the original side knob shaft - it may need trimming but the new side knob will ride against it. Take your time on this - you want it to fit as exact and snug as you can. If it is snug anough, you won't have to glue the ring in - but if it is too snug, it may slightly deform the ring and the knob will be too tight to turn. If that happend, just open it up a little more.
I like to trim it out with an X-Acto and fine-tune it with a piece of 220 grit sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel rod.
Now, it is nozzle time.
You need some brass tubing, 1/2" inside diameter. Cut it to about 3/4" in length, and deburr the cut end. The factory-cut end goes toward the nozzle....
Now, for the mounting. You need a piece of .100" sheet plastic. Cut it into a square (IIRC, 1" square, maybe a little smaller.) Cut a hole in the center big enough for the tubing to slide snugly in.
It'll fit between the side knob ring and the inside front of the P2's body....and you want to trim it so that the P2 halves will close and the nozzle centered. Trial and error time for now, until I can measure it.
Once it fits to your satisfaction and looks vaguely like the pic, it is time to make the tubing a more permanent part of your phaser.
Making sure that the factory-cut end is all the way on the nozzle's extension and seated, slide them into the adaptor plate (which is placed, but not glued, inside the left P2 half.
Once the back of the nozzle is against the P2 front, put a drop of CA on the brass tubing where it meets the sheet plastic. Let that dry, and take it out of the P2 body gently.
Take the nozzle out, and if the brass stayed attached to the plate, lay the JB Weld to it - all around the back of the plate and around the brass tubing. Let it cure well - this needs to be a strong joint.
Now, while that is curing, time to fill in those dastardly screw holes....
Take a drill - preferably a variable-speed one. Chuck a piece of plastic rod in it (one that is slightly larger dia than the holes) and taper it as shown.
Once you have two pieces that fit tight, put a few drops of CA on them and twist them into the holes. After the glue dries, cut them off flush with the surface.
You'll have to use files, sanding sticks, imagination, and a few nerve pills to get the handle hole filled in without wrecking the tombstones...
Now to relieve some frustration and make the new trigger at the same time.
Cut off a two-inch piece of an X-Acto handle and chuck it in your drill. Get some 320- or 400-grit sandpaper and hold it against the side of the handle as it turns. Then, hold the sandpaper flat in the palm of your hand and stick the end of the handle against it. Drill.
If all went well, you should have a really cool finish on it. Now, do the same thing, except polish it with Brasso and an old cloth...