Chrisisall
Master Member
I have decided to make it so!:lol
Art Asylum / Diamond Select TOS Phaser build with metal parts.
- Thread starter spacerone
- Start date
spacerone
Well-Known Member
Make it so number one! It was easy for me to decide because I like a lot of bling on my body.:lol
Chrisisall
Master Member
Alternate 'Verses.
I may just make a P1 into one like Nona's, & make a crapizoid P1 from scratch to fill the void in the P2. Ha! There's my Mantrap one!!:thumbsup
spacerone
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see some photos.:lol Engage!:thumbsup
spacerone
Well-Known Member
Chris were are the phaser builds?:lol
Chrisisall
Master Member
The parts are all here, waiting for me to finish other stuff...:rolleyes
megazone27
New Member
This thread has me excited to mod my DS phaser into a more realistic prop.
how do you join the parts after filling the screw holes? is it just glued together?
how do you join the parts after filling the screw holes? is it just glued together?
Chrisisall
Master Member
Well, it's screwed together, so filling the holes just means you're not taking it apart again very easily.:lol So if you plan mods that require taking it apart, fill the screw holes in at the very end.
I love these phasers- inexpensive (at least when I bought MINE>>>:rolleyes), yet nearly accurate.
If you want to get CRAZY with it, and have a couple hundred dollars to do it with, you can REALLY accurize with parts from here:
federationphaser
Not cheap, but really high quality.:thumbsup
megazone27
New Member
Thanks for the clarification. I had thought they were filled, painted disassembled and then assembled.
BATMANN
Active Member
You can fill the two holes that you can see in the left side with plastic rod as they are not needed to hold the phaser together.
You dont need to glue the phaser so it stays together tight either.
So what holds it together?
The cap on the bottom of the handle, the rear screw under the fins,the top locking plate will be glued and help hold the front aswell as the front bottom screw that you add.
If you have to take it apart and put it back together for any reason you can without messing it up.
I am about ready start my build soon as i have 99% of all my bits and piece gathered. Ill be sure to keep you updated with photos when i get started..
You dont need to glue the phaser so it stays together tight either.
So what holds it together?
The cap on the bottom of the handle, the rear screw under the fins,the top locking plate will be glued and help hold the front aswell as the front bottom screw that you add.
If you have to take it apart and put it back together for any reason you can without messing it up.
I am about ready start my build soon as i have 99% of all my bits and piece gathered. Ill be sure to keep you updated with photos when i get started..
Last edited by a moderator:
megazone27
New Member
Thanks for the guidance.
I had to cut apart the front emitter to figure out how it can be disassembled without damaging it. Any future ones will be much easier.
I managed the rear fins and bottom of the handgrip without damage.
I'm ordering a metal emitter for both the P1 and p2 bodies.
That and a great paint job are probably as far as I'm going with this mod.
I had to cut apart the front emitter to figure out how it can be disassembled without damaging it. Any future ones will be much easier.
I managed the rear fins and bottom of the handgrip without damage.
I'm ordering a metal emitter for both the P1 and p2 bodies.
That and a great paint job are probably as far as I'm going with this mod.
megazone27
New Member
I'm well on the way with a disassembled phaser being painted. anybody have suggestions for changing these to be rechargeable? the LR44 batteries are hard for me to get.
spacerone
Well-Known Member
Not much room in the little phaser for a rechargeable battery. If you can find a rechargeable battery that is small enough to fit inside the battery compartment, you would have to alter the battery compartment by removing the center plastic separators and metal tab connectors. But an easier solution would be to look on ebay for the batteries, you can find those batteries on ebay all the time and they are very inexpensive.
Spacerone you did a nice job on the Art Asylum phaser :thumbsup I thought you might like to see one of my AA phaser I had built for me. You may want to try to include some of these hero style features in one of your builds.
spacerone
Well-Known Member
Spacerone you did a nice job on the Art Asylum phaser :thumbsup I thought you might like to see one of my AA phaser I had built for me. You may want to try to include some of these hero style features in one of your builds.
WOW!:love That is very nice, I see I have too make some changes on my next phaser that I am building. I don't know exactly where to start yet though.:facepalm Who built it for you? Maybe I can get a few tips from the master builder.
nwjedidave
Sr Member
Spacerone you did a nice job on the Art Asylum phaser :thumbsup I thought you might like to see one of my AA phaser I had built for me. You may want to try to include some of these hero style features in one of your builds.
veryyyyyyyyyyy nice build!
thanks, it is my favorite phaser in my collection
tobor
Active Member
Hi,
I’ve just finished a couple of Art Asylum upgrades I thought I’d share with you.
All the replacement metal parts are from federationphaser.
On both of them I cut the handle off and reattached it after painting. This is so I could get rid of the join line. I glued some brass channel inside the handle to give it some weight. This together with the metal parts give the phasers a nice feel.
On the black phaser the knob at the back is a bit cut off an aluminium modelling knife. The finns are just layers of plastic card. Because the phaser 1 has no wheel to adjust the settings, it’s locked on maximum. The overload setting still works though.
I’m working on another one at the moment, I’m probably going to opt for an all grey one this time.
James.
I’ve just finished a couple of Art Asylum upgrades I thought I’d share with you.
All the replacement metal parts are from federationphaser.
On both of them I cut the handle off and reattached it after painting. This is so I could get rid of the join line. I glued some brass channel inside the handle to give it some weight. This together with the metal parts give the phasers a nice feel.
On the black phaser the knob at the back is a bit cut off an aluminium modelling knife. The finns are just layers of plastic card. Because the phaser 1 has no wheel to adjust the settings, it’s locked on maximum. The overload setting still works though.
I’m working on another one at the moment, I’m probably going to opt for an all grey one this time.
James.
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