Aoshima Airwolf 1/48 diecast repair

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New Member
My Airwolf diecast went flying and it nosedived to the ground. The wing broke off. I'm trying to repair it, but haven't dealt much with metal. I managed to crazy glue it back on.

I'm going to use a dremel to sand down the excess glue. This will be my first time using a dremel, any recommended attachment that I should use? My main concern was paint. Thinking about using an airbrush with a solid white. Any other recommendations?

Just want to get advice so I don't screw this up.


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Active Member
It would have been less difficult if you had taped off the surfaces. That way you could have sanded down and peeled off the tape. As it is now, I definitely advise against using a motor tool as an error is made too easily and the consequences can be grave.
My suggestion is to still tape off the non-glue section, and carefully sand the excess away by hand. Then you still have to cover up the breakline.
Alternatively, sand and respray. That might be the fastest and give the most satisfactory result.


Sr Member
You're dealing with cast metal and my experience has shown crazy glue isn't going to hold very well, especially if you get at it with a power tool. You may want to consider using a nail file instead of the Dremel since it's your first time using it and the nail file would give you more control. The Dremel can take off quite a bit of material pretty quick if you're not careful and turn a simple fix into a nightmare. But if you're dead-set on using it, try using one of those paper sanding disks on the lowest speed and use a very light touch. If you have the flexible extension for the Dremel that would be ideal since it's smaller and easier to hold onto. I rarely use my Dremel without this attachment anymore.

In the event that it breaks off again, use an epoxy to bond the parts back together instead of crazy glue.

Good luck... and post pics after you fix it.


Sr Member
Another issue will be with color matching the existing white paint on the rest of the model. If you wish to avoid repainting *all* of the model's the white areas, recommend getting a few paint candidates and testing them for color matching - allow at least a week set time for the test paints. One option may be to use some of the small auto 'touch-up' paint bottles. Once you have a 'best match' determined, then you'll need to do a compatibility test with the exiting paint (which may be anything from a lacquer - likely because of the fast dry characteristic, important to manufacturing - to an enamel or acrylic.) Test on a small spot to make sure nothing weird happens.

Primer is probably indicated since your repair will expose the base metal, plus you may need to apply some glazing putty to smooth it over. So, if using primer, compatibility issues are minimized to just the interaction with the primer itself.

Also, probably should lightly sand the existing paint with a fine grit (>600) wet & dry paper to promote mechanical adhesion for any putty or overcoats.

Regards, Robert

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