another salzo viper

rambo5788

Well-Known Member
I got my kit last week and spent time removing what little flash ther was and now I am starting assembly. I am replacing some detail with actual kit parts for a crisper look, and working alot on the detail behind the intakes there is a bit of gloppy stuff in there I can clean up with files I knew that 40 dollar rifle file set was worth it. I plan the bolt the three major parts together with a 4 inch steel bolt. and I am planing on three monting point top bottom and rear. below are photos
a joyous christmas to everyone.
 
Great start i can't wait to see how it comes out , I also got one of salzo viper kits are you going to light it as well.
 
progress
I am using steel 3/4 pins for the wings and stabilizer the whole thing will be held together by 4 inch bolt from back to front and epoxy I have added the u channel to the front of the rear section. and I need to replace some of the T 34/76 exhausts due to handeling. I am also replacing the resin treads with actual kit parts. speaking of kit parts I see what looks like a 1/700 IJN naval three barrel gun on the top port quarter fuselage in some close up pics is this cannon or placed there during a restoration?
:confused
 
progress notice the amount of concentration in the last shot
also one question I now have the kit 80% assembled but I notice the fuselage is tipped up at about 3 degrees off center of the engines is this normal or did I do something wrong. it looks ok but a bit strange
 
I don't think you did anything wrong it may be in the casting can you take a pic of it with the engine.

When i get a chance i'll look at my and see if its the same way.
 
progress

I replaced the tubing and strip detail inbewteen the engines as I did not want to spend time cleaning up the casting so I spent time cleaning it any how to replace the detail thats irony for you
 
Thats looking great !! I really like the detail work your doing.

I don't see anything wrong with the fuselage from your pic it looks just fine.
 
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thanks for the remarks I did the canopy last night that is one breakable part holy frak

moes sent pm sorry not me I had him do a boat for me though it took some time to get done
 
now that I am this far what are the colors to use?
the originals appear a very light gray almost like ghost gray the markings appear scarlet. I plan to do the weathering all in oils using the dot filter method. one last question what is a good blue to replicate the blue screen pylons? I wnat to mount mine in a matthews grip clamp and C stand but I want the blue pylon covering the C stand.
 
Paint jobs... depends on which Viper you're trying to duplicate. The stripes are orange and greys around the cowlings.

One Viper was painted more XWing style, and you see it a fair bit. It's got heavy panel work that was painted on. For some reason, looks as if on the model you've got it was scribed in. That's the most extreme paint-up on one that exists (well, mostly still exists) One had a completely clean side, others were a fairly basic, flat grey, with the orange stripes and a good bit of weathering. Not much panel detail, etc on them. You'll use a fair amount of whatever favorite rust technique you have.

If you're going to get some blast marks and all of the panels on there, avoid basic greys. Get some color into them. It was there.

I understand wanting to use dot filtering on it for the irregularity, but you may find that a bit of time invested in airbrushing some overspray patterns and light splatter give you a similar result, and light mists tie the panels and base surface together, give you the effect that you're after.
 
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on matthews clamp, and I checked into chrome a key paint and paper I had no idea they were that expensive. so I will wait on that purchase. maybe a swatch of paper or fabric then I could try to match the color myself.
 
This is one of Apogee's MOCO pylon covers. This version dates from around ST:TMP, and was likely used for the Klingon shots. The pylons were different sizes depending on the size and weight of the models. (ILM took all the equipment built for STAR WARS up to Marin when they relocated. Apogee rebuilt their own stuff after that.) The ones for STAR WARS and BSG were slightly smaller, about 3" square. This one is about 4 1/2" square.

I made the internal fitting out of plumber's pipe, T-connectors and a floor flange. The thing the blue pylon is sitting on is an old friction head from a TV camera.

All this is is a translucent piece of ABS that has been vac-formed into 1/2 a long, rectangular box, glued together, and painted blue to form a cover that drops over the neon wrapped model pylon. As you can see, the color is...... well, it's blue. Really deep blue. If you want to get really anal and match the bluescreen that they used, you need a deep, primary blue color. If you want something to actually photograph (like Kurt), you can go with either a blue or a green. Digital cameras can pick up the differences in color better than film, so you don't need to be as picky.

Gene
 
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Now that's a sweet rig!
 
Here's a shot with the cover off. Because I needed the T-fitting to line up with the pre-existing hole in the cover, I had to crib together some wood scraps to build up the height. But you can see that the structure is really pretty simple. Just a floor flange, some pipe, and a T-connector.

I added some cheap cabinet lighting to the pipe to get the full "geek on" effect. The neon would provide more even lighting, but they are a paint to deal with, so I cheaped out.


Gene
 
Are you sure that's the right shade of blue, Gene? Doesn't look like the right shade of blue to me. The problem is, it's not blue enough. Do you have anything bluer?
 
Rob, I agree. Based on that I cant share picture . . . its wayyyy off! And you cheaped out with no neon? And you TRY to pass that as "accurate"? The GALL of some people!!!


LOL!

Looks awesome Gene! Can't wait to see the finished viper on that down the road . . . I'm STILL jealous of your MOCO stand!

Ryan
 
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