Another Kylo Ren saber, not 3D printed.

dz-6489

New Member
I finished my Kylo Ren saber about 2 weeks ago, thought I would share it. Its all metal, machined aluminum and brass. For electronics i have a tri-Rebel Red LED for the main and red singles for the sides. The soundboard is a Petit Crouton v3.5 and its powered by a rechargeable li-ion battery pack. I have the side blades on a separate switch so i can turn them on and off manually. The removable blades are 7/8 inch polycarbonate.

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Kylash

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I don't know what any of that technical stuff means but it looks nice!
 

ender9492

Member
Looks and sounds awesome! I was hoping someone would make a metal hilt; while the 3D printed ones look great and all, they're not really combat-able.
Are the exposed wires functional, or just cosmetic?
What method did you mainly use to construct it? CNC? Lathe? Combo of both? Other?

Where's the on/off switch?
Also, it looks like you have some set screws at the bottom of the hilt; are they for anything in particular?
 

Sni9er

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
looks good! was this based from one of the designed meshes out there or just free-handed also any build photos?. i'd be very interested in your construction methods and to see a little more metal haha your paint job is maybe a little too black ?

my only comments are the crossguard emitters look a little large but for functionality and ease of fitting a standard width blade thats A-OK

Great job !DZ
 

dz-6489

New Member
Looks and sounds awesome! I was hoping someone would make a metal hilt; while the 3D printed ones look great and all, they're not really combat-able.
Are the exposed wires functional, or just cosmetic?
What method did you mainly use to construct it? CNC? Lathe? Combo of both? Other?

Where's the on/off switch?
Also, it looks like you have some set screws at the bottom of the hilt; are they for anything in particular?

The wires are just cosmetic. I used a combination of the lathe, mill, and even hand dremeled some of the smaller parts. no CNC, all manual. If a part didn't screw together its either soldered or tack welded. The switches (3 in total, 1 for on/off of the main blade, 1 to control the aux of the soundboard, and 1 to turn the side blades on/ff are located on the opposite side of the damaged section. what looks to be set screws at the bottom are just holes allowing the sound to vent. i had some in the pommel, but the wires for the recharge port blocked a lot of the sound so i decided to put side holes in.
 

ARKM

Sr Member
That's pretty frikkin' impressive for being done on a manual lathe and mill. I suspect sorcery. ;)
 
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