Another Fine Molds 1/72 MF

Discussion in 'General Modeling' started by Fett_Ish, Feb 28, 2012.

  1. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    A month or two ago I hopped on here excited to post pics of my FM falcon. Well Alaneye had started one literally minutes before so I waited. I commented in his thread and rather than pollute his thread with my sad attempts I figured I'd try to contribute what I can.

    This is my second attempt at this kit. The original was modified only with photoetch grills on the rear deck and escape pod hallway tops. I didn't even fill the gaps between the piping parts.:facepalm This one is getting lots of love as I can't see myself building a third. I am using both the 32 incher and the five footer for inspirational templates. so while I am replicating niether I am copying both,so it will look like the Falcon not some other weatherd hamburger.

    The first thing I did was build the cockpit around the acreation PE set. I cut out the molded in grill (the picture in sculpting a galaxy shows no grill just a frame). I then cut a piece of styrene drilled some holes in it and glued it behind the grill. I stretched some sprue and added it to either side of the photoetch grill (twice actually as I couldn't get it thin enough the first time). I added a detail to the outer side of the tube from the five footer and the backside and one front pipe from the 32 incher. I replaced the little molded on cylinder at the end of a pipe on the outside of the cockpit tube as the injection molding process causes it to face up. At the end of the tube on the main hull I modified a part to raise up off the hull rather than lay flat on it.

    Next I filed all the panels on the perimeter of the top hull,carved the detail near the 3 little pipes near the front,emulating the more ragged damage from the 5 footer, and replacing those three little pipes with less uniform ones that come up off the hull. I also removed and replaced a good portion of the piping on the two front top quadrants. On the cockpit side I shimmed up the last part before the panels start and drilled a hole in it so that I could have the pipe travel up off the hull at an angle towards this piece emulating the 32 inch model I also added a few details in this area. On the other side I removed the three pipes near the jawbox and replaced them so they would be raised above the hull where there is no panel,again like the 32 incher. I have also started adding missing bits of detail around the ship.

    Where I am right now is tearing up (gently and purposefully) the outer edge of the top hull. The number and spacing is close enough to the five footer that I am copying that damage,which is considerable. When I get to the bottom I am going to have to use styrene sheat to build tthe damage on some panels. If you read that, I'm amazed. Gp easy on me as it is a work in progress Mr. Surfacer,primer,sanded spots etc,etc. Suggestion,questions,critques welcome! Oh yeah,the main hull and mandible 'transmission' parts are held together with rare earth magnets for access to electronics.
     
  2. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    One shot of the lit cockpit!:love
     
  3. Alaneye

    Alaneye Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    866
    Looking good, Fett. Wow, you have replaced the whole of the pipe set... hmmm, I was trying to avoid doing that lol The cockpit lighting looks great. Are you going to be applying colour to it? Are you going to be able to hide the power inside the kit, or will it have to be external... I can't make out yet if it'll fit inside.

    Al
     
  4. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    Al, yes I did rip up and replace them. It is easy with a new flat blade on the x-acto. The cockpit lights are actually colored as the decals are,it just doesn't show in my pic. For now the lights will run internally off 9volt,but I may change this which is why the model is put together with magnets for access,but since I know zero about electronics,I didn't want the kit to sit until I had that figured out. Thanks for the feedback.
     
  5. johnnyntro

    johnnyntro New Member

    Trophy Points:
    2
    You are both brave brave individuals. Looking forward to seeing more progress!!!
     
  6. Alaneye

    Alaneye Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    866
    My PE set turned up today... I feel really intimidated by it lol How easy/difficult is it to work with and fit?

    Al
     
  7. Captain Han Solo

    Captain Han Solo Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,155
    Very Nice work there Sir..Bravo!
     
  8. crackerjazz

    crackerjazz Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,525
    Great job, Fett_Ish! :)
     
  9. Scratchy

    Scratchy Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    915
    Nice detailing!
     
  10. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    Scratchy, thanks,that is high praise,considering your efforts in micro detailing the 144th version. Crackerjazz, appreciate it,it has become a job! *I've been watching your build as well, love the display. *I would love to attempt something similar. Beatlepaul,thank you, I love your conversion,now that is an undertaking.

    Alaneye the PE is pretty easy to work with. The stuff you have been doing on your build lead me to believe you will have no issue. Put some color on the parts before you decal as they are pretty transparent. *The brass will show through. I found this out too late but it's still sweet! I wussed out and didnt light up the center console but someday in the future.....one ting I have decided to do is thin the lip of the rear exhaust thingies on the back and install the photo etch grill from the bottom. Otherwise there is no lip where there should be. It's gonna suck,this is one of the times I prefer 3D. Delete!Also be sure to not rush to just use the PE, there are a couple partson the engine deck I am not using as the kit ones match the 32 incher anyway.

    I have added the big crinkled panel on the bottom behind the cockpit,on the panels on either side of the escape pods and around the rest of the bottom perimeter. There isn't as much down there as there is up top. The panels on either side of the escape pods on the cockpit side are beat to hell while the other side is pristine. I wonder if both these are due to camera angles needed or just the way they did it. Anyway I think it really adds to the look. If anyone is gonna try it, first I cut the panels from the outer edge to the first lip on the under/upper side of the hull halves. *I used needle nose pliers and tweezers to bend the plastic and then a little glue if the part cracked ( or broke). Then I filled with green putty and Mr.Surfacer (glue if I needed some 'welding'), then sanded and repeated all in an effort to make it appear that metal had bent and crumpled. The plastic isn't crazy about being mangled and crumbles and breaks without much give. Flame heat is bad,didn't try hot air, I just glued many a tiny tip back on.

    For the really crumpled panel I first ground down a portion of the molded in panel flush with the hull. I then bent a couple of wide strips of styrene how I wanted them,then glued them to the hull. Then,for fun,I spent way too much time blending it into the hull. It looks sweet though so it was worth the effort. Hopefully it will set my build apart,although now that I say that I am sure someone will post a link! I'll try to gets some picks up tonight or tomorrow. Thanks for looking.
     
  11. Alaneye

    Alaneye Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    866
    Come on Fett, I want some inspiration... where's those pix you promised. I'm off on holiday for a week tomorrow, but will probably feel like getting stuck into the cockpit when I get back.
     
  12. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    Alaneye I will try to post some tomorrow or the next day. I went pretty crazy on this and think it is time to get it prepped for primer. Every time I say that though I find one more thing I want to do!
     
  13. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    So I am finally posting up some pics of my almost done Falcon. I completely changed directions on this build and went more for a 5 footer look, although I took elements from either that I liked. I added lots of little details but did not do much in the way of acurrizing jawbox or toe in, but I am very pleased so far with what I did change. I was going to explain all I have done,but there are pictures ( I have many more if anyone cares to see them) of pre primer included. Please comment. Rivet counters beware! This build may make ya queazy:sick, but I wanted to have fun and since I built my first FM falcon to resemble the 32 incher I wanted this build to be more organic. Again comments questions welcome!
     
  14. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

    Trophy Points:
    3,355
    Awesome paint job, very authentic :thumbsup
     
  15. vixr

    vixr Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    342
    * fine...I am totally in awe of the work you guys do...
     
  16. Alaneye

    Alaneye Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    866
    Well now, someone has been burning the midnight oil ;) Looks really great, Fett. I love pic 13, how you've damaged the grills like in the photos of the studio model. I have to admit, when I looked at that pic there was a moment when I thought it was the studio model... well done.

    Al
     
  17. blakeh1

    blakeh1 Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,415
    Ditto! Excellent paint job
     
  18. astroboy

    astroboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    3,275
    I have to admit, that's a bit more weathering than I often see in these. That being said, I REALLY like it. And when I get back into doing mine, I hope to get that level of paint quality!


    bravo!!!!
     
  19. Jaitea

    Jaitea Master Member

    Trophy Points:
    2,690
    Excellent paint job, I hope I will eventually get round to painting mine!!

    J
     
  20. JMChladek

    JMChladek Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,306
    I like what I see a lot. Everything blended together pretty nicely to come up with something that looks like an ESB version of the 5 footer (which was more weathered than the 32" was).

    As for rivet counters being quesy, LOL. I wouldn't worry much about that. I've found that getting to work on and finishing a project tends to be more satisfying than griping about what a specific kit may or may not have on it. A built model looks SOOO much better than a few pieces sitting on a table somewhere or in the box.
     
  21. crackerjazz

    crackerjazz Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,525
    Amazing job, Fett_Ish! :)
     
  22. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    Thanks for the kudos, it always means a lot coming from folks here that do such inspiring work. I should mention that I have yet to dull coat it so that's affecting the look a bit. And the bottom is only base coated and a single wash. No one mentioned 3pos eyes. I gave up my sight to make that happen! She is dirtier than expected but that has a lot to do with the fact that my weathering and markings are not scaled down enough. My favorite bits are the crinkled rear screens and bent panels along the perimeter. It really helps sell the whole 'piece of junk' that I was going for. Gotta paint the bottom make the frosted engine cover and she's done. I'll post pics sometime in late 2013.
     
  23. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

    Trophy Points:
    3,355
    I think it looks great as is. The main paint has a slight sheen, and the weathering is dull. The different textures give it a very realistic look.
     
  24. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    This looks so good man. What color mix did you use for the base coat? I'm currently struggling with it a bit :-/.
     
  25. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    Mancini, I used Tamiya deck tan and white. I saw an older thread where a member had used a 50/50 mix to re-paint an MR Falcon. My mix was custom to scale down the color so I dumped a bottle of deck tan and a bottle of white together and then kept adding white until I felt I got the color I wanted. I use alot of thinner in my mix. It seems that it takes more to get a full coat but I think it is better as none of the fine detail gets filled up and it dries almost immediately. Make twice as much as you think you'll need as I ran out after doing just the top and had to remix:facepalm.
     
  26. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    Thanks, I'll give it a go ... BTW, how many bottles of paint did you use on the Falcon? I don't want to run out in the middle of the painting :). And roughly your paint:thinner ratio?
     
  27. JMChladek

    JMChladek Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,306
    In my experience, if you are airbrushing the Falcon and doing a 50/50 mix like that (two bottles of Tamiya or two bottles of Testors Model Master with both being dumped into a larger bottle), you should have plenty of paint to spare as when I did my one bottle of each mix, I had enough left over for touchups. In fact, I probably had enough left to also do a 1/144 Falcon, except the batch dried out, probably because the bottle seal wasn't as good as it could have been.

    One thing I will recommend is DO NOT thin the paint to airbrush ratio in the mixed color bottle. Pour some into a smaller container and thin for airbrushing that way. Reason being is more thinner can upset the chemical balance of the paint and it might do some weird things if stored over time. So it is best to treat the mixed color like any other bottle of model paint.
     
  28. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    I did mix one whole bottle of each and then added more white till I got the color I wanted. As far as a ratio on my thinner/paint? :$:$ I just add thinner till it looks right to me as it runs down the side of the bottle. Lots of people say the consistency of milk, but I go a bit thinner. 2% milk maybe:confused.

    I am no airbrush expert. I did go to art school and have painted models for almost 25 years, but my FM Slave 1 was my first airbrushed model and this was my second. My point is don't do what I say as I may lead you astray. I work as a 3d artist and often things have to be just so, so when I work on something with my hands a prefer to sort of wing it, but that can be risky on a $200 plus kit:eek!
     
  29. JMChladek

    JMChladek Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,306
    The 2% milk rule is what I tend to use as well. When the paint still has a good coating action on the sides of the bottle or the color cup and doesn't slide back right away like say coffee or Kool-Aid, it should be good to go.

    Typically for flats (enamel OR acrylic) that tends to be about 30% thinner to 70% paint. For glosses, that is much closer to half and half. Generally though, I go closer to 50/50 on my paint to thinning ratio most of the time, especially with acrylics as I don't want to risk them drying in the tip prematurely. Enamels are pretty forgiving of mistakes in mixing. Acrylics are slightly more touchy, although as long as you are using a good quality acrylic thinner (Tamiya acrylic X-20A thinner is what I use, even for Testors acrylics), it helps a lot. I believe one of the reasons why Tamiya acrylic thinner works could be that they added a little retarding agent to the mixture, so the paint doesn't dry too fast when airbrushed.
     
  30. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    Thank you very much, both of you!
     
  31. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    One more thing Fett_Ish ... I see you used the PE cockpit. I'm playing with it right now and I'm having difficulties with wrapping my brain around the seat placement. In my view they:

    a) don't fit, and
    b) are too low

    WTF? :-D
     
  32. astroboy

    astroboy Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    3,275
    I gave up on the cockpit. Nothing fit very well for me. I ended up using the stock floor and the PE console
     
  33. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    :) ... I'm this close to doing just that
     
  34. JMChladek

    JMChladek Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,306
    Once pilot figures are stuck in the cockpit, the issues with it aren't that noticeable at all. For a parked Falcon with no one sitting in the seats, an aftermarket one might be better (even if the seats do sit low). But even with just Han and Chewie in it, the floor becomes practically invisible and even more so when you get two figures occupying the rear seats. Even cockpit lighting won't show much since Falcon cockpit lighting doesn't brighten the whole pit, instead it just puts cool pinpoints of light and long white strips in. Considering the consoles are shades of dark gray and almost black, that is to be expected.

    The console is about the only thing that might benefit, but even there, just sticking on some of the levers for the hyperdrive and other things might be all one needs as opposed to a total replacement.
     
  35. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    Mancini- don't give up! I did many things different with my cockpit, here we go. First I just glued the sidewall to the sides of the interior of the cockpit, I also added some little half boxes of styrene toward the front ( I believe they've been identified as dash parts from a Volvo). For the back seats I added some styrene cylinders to the bottom to lift them up a bit above the front seats. I also discarded the center console and used the plastic one from the kit. I glued the front/center part of the dash to that. Reason for this was so Han could reach the levers I added, otherwise the center came up to his shoulders. For all this to work I also trimmed the kit part that goes in the very front way down so the dash could be glued to it I also sanded the bottom and sides a bit so it all sat a bit lower, this matches the full scale falcon better. If you take a look at some of the latest pics I posted ( gotta look close) you can see the difference. All of this was done mostly because of lighting 3POs eyes. Hope that helps. Don't give up!
     
  36. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17

    Yep, that's fairly similar to what I'm working on right now ... gonna use the original centre console and dashboard (with some fibres to light them up) and PE walls and side panels. I have already created a styrene block to go below the centre console as the original is lower then the PE one. And once the primer dries on my seats I'll try to figure out the correct height for them.

    BTW, did I'm thinking of putting 0.2mm white styrene behind the PE walls to create a diffusor for the LED. Did you do something like that? How did the lights on the side walls turn out, are they visible?

    I HATE the PE cockpit :sick
     
  37. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    Yeah, that's what I'm hoping for :)
     
  38. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    I did glue the PE to a piece of clear styrene. I also put some white plastic from some packaging I had so they would be that milky white. The sides didn't light as well as I'd hoped but overall it did. And just to be clear, I used the PE console/dash just not the center console it sits on. I cut the part from the kit floor and sanded the bottom and glued it to the PE floor.
     
  39. mancini

    mancini New Member

    Trophy Points:
    17
    Yep ... that's the same thing I'm going for ... just haven't figured out the right height for the plastic centre console as the PE floor is much lower so I don't know yet if the console needs to be set a little higher now.
     
  40. Fett_Ish

    Fett_Ish Well-Known Member

    Trophy Points:
    635
    If I remember ( it was so much work this cockpit) I cut it from the kit floor so it includes the thickness of that as well and worked out to be just the right height for Han to lean forward and reach levers naturally. Can't wait to see what you come up with.
     

Share This Page