DL-44 FDM c96 & MGC replicas…
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
As scottjua mentioned only the Hoth was an MGC.
In the Dagobah scenes the Bespin blaster is seen twice. Both times Luke’s pulls the blaster (Once when r2 first falls into the water and the 2nd time when he meets Yoda for the first time) it’s the bespin version. The Dagobah (stunt) blaster is scene when he’s running to r2’s aid after he’s shot from the dragonsnakes mouth..
Thanks both of you for the clarification!
For the hero on Dagobah, I had been wondering if there were any shots that were clear enough to tell which of the two Bespin hero blasters were used. But I just remembered: 4K on Disney Plus! (more like 1080p when captured on this PC monitor...) Looks like the full light port to me and now I see it in your capture above as well. So this is the "Han"?
Of course those designations are already a bit fuzzy even though they are certainly not absolute distinctions to begin with given Han is most clearly seen with the cut port "Luke" blaster in the dining room, despite firing both of them in that sequence; this just muddies it a bit more.
Forgot about the swamp monster scene, good catch. I couldn't pull any clear frames from it though - it's dark and mostly in motion and your frame above is about as good as it gets.
For the hero on Dagobah, I had been wondering if there were any shots that were clear enough to tell which of the two Bespin hero blasters were used. But I just remembered: 4K on Disney Plus! (more like 1080p when captured on this PC monitor...) Looks like the full light port to me and now I see it in your capture above as well. So this is the "Han"?
Of course those designations are already a bit fuzzy even though they are certainly not absolute distinctions to begin with given Han is most clearly seen with the cut port "Luke" blaster in the dining room, despite firing both of them in that sequence; this just muddies it a bit more.
Forgot about the swamp monster scene, good catch. I couldn't pull any clear frames from it though - it's dark and mostly in motion and your frame above is about as good as it gets.
Ooh man, that hoth shot looks to have a gray spacer not yellow-y or bronze colored. Am I nuts?
Honestly I’m not sure which blaster it is. It sort of looks like a full light port but it also looks to be maybe a 3/4 one as well?? The flash is pretty clean which makes u believe it’s possibly Han’s. But it’s hard to tell..
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Here is that same pic but just over exposed and ya it looks like a full circle. Interesting..
for anyone in need of screen accurate greeblies, Denix upgrades and more.. I’ve finally gotten around to making them all availablle 
I’ve put a couple YouTube videos together. I think they each help identify the individual blasters said details and differences as well as highlight the individual parts I had made up for each build.
There‘s so much misinformation out there and so many accurized builds people are getting lost on what is truly film accurate and what isn’t. Hope these help..
Below is my Stembridge & Endor ROTJ blasters. Each recreated on a denix base, highly modified as well..
There‘s so much misinformation out there and so many accurized builds people are getting lost on what is truly film accurate and what isn’t. Hope these help..
Below is my Stembridge & Endor ROTJ blasters. Each recreated on a denix base, highly modified as well..
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Some design ideas I have been able to bring to life. C96 Trigger, hammer & a slip fit bull barrel.. each fits the denix pretty seamlessly.
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Looks way better than stock! Are those printed in metal or a really convincing paint job?
AnubisGuard thanks! The trigger and hammer are painted ya but they themselves are 3d printed on a HP Multi Jet Fusion printer. Those printers are crazy insane in the strength and detail it can capture. Are you familiar with them?
AnubisGuard
Master Member
I think I've heard of them, but I don't know anything about them.
I'm more interested in the paint job you did – graphite rub on the hammer, or....? It's really convincing; it looks just like steel in the pic.
AnubisGuard thanks man much appreciated!
I honestly only asked about the printer because I think it’s one of the most overlooked aspect when capturing that metal look. The other obviously being the design of the part itself. It all adds up for sure.
These MJF printers print extremely strong and extremely detailed. But most importantly the nylon material it prints in actual absorbs the paint itself. Otherwise if u use resin or metal the paint itself will eventually crack/chip over time when u pull the trigger and the hammer snaps. SLS printers are also nylon but can’t capture in the details these MJF printers can. I’ve failed many times before finding what works.
But for the finish itself ya its quite simple. Primer, sand and repeat 2/3 times. But very minor sanding and only use extremely fine sandpaper as the print itself is already smooth. Then silver paint and graphite powder. After it sits for a bit I use black paint for the details. Comes out pretty solid as you can see. I do get a lot of people confusing it for actual metal which is a really nice complement in itself. Same process for the flash hider as well.
I honestly only asked about the printer because I think it’s one of the most overlooked aspect when capturing that metal look. The other obviously being the design of the part itself. It all adds up for sure.
These MJF printers print extremely strong and extremely detailed. But most importantly the nylon material it prints in actual absorbs the paint itself. Otherwise if u use resin or metal the paint itself will eventually crack/chip over time when u pull the trigger and the hammer snaps. SLS printers are also nylon but can’t capture in the details these MJF printers can. I’ve failed many times before finding what works.
But for the finish itself ya its quite simple. Primer, sand and repeat 2/3 times. But very minor sanding and only use extremely fine sandpaper as the print itself is already smooth. Then silver paint and graphite powder. After it sits for a bit I use black paint for the details. Comes out pretty solid as you can see. I do get a lot of people confusing it for actual metal which is a really nice complement in itself. Same process for the flash hider as well.
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I’ve already had designed up an accurate c96 trigger for the denix, the hammer as well.. but this could be epic. I’ll have to reorder the part as this was just a test print but so far so good..
Finally got the reprint and was able to get it primed and painted. Like a kid in Xmas morning my impatiens will always get the best of me as I couldn’t wait for each coat to fully dry before adding the next. All things considering it came out pretty good. Not perfect but certainly does the job I believe. I’ll take this one off and spend more time on the next one. The gluing is the toughest (messy) part so far..
EDIT: 3/31/22 I’ve updated this design so it has legs and a separate exact part to work as a stencil. Makes attaching it much easier and less messy..
EDIT: 3/31/22 I’ve updated this design so it has legs and a separate exact part to work as a stencil. Makes attaching it much easier and less messy..
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That's a feature of all C96, M30, and M712 pistols - it's the lock frame that slides into the main frame of the pistol:
As you can see, technically it should be flush with the main frame, but chubsANDdoggers' plant-on approach is a good work-around - I'm not sure how else you could do it easily. Also, the lock frame was one of the components that was left "in the white," meaning the steel wasn't blued or otherwise given a surface treatment.
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