Well I'm all about full wiring this up with all the do-dads and what nots... but I've never done anything before... so if anyone is full on leds/soundcards/speakers on Romans EFX... PLEASE show your work.
Awesome, thank you for the diagrams. I have never done anything like this, so I take take it a wavy line does NOT get tapped into the wires it "crosses". For example, the circles mean you "tap" into the wire and the wavy means they don't get soldiered together, I know its a dumb question, I wish I could word it better.
I did some more work on my OWK. I added a tri cree led (blue,blue,white) in the emitter. Put in a NB-3 sound board, a bass speaker, due to space limitation a li-on 18500 battery and a new crystal. Also under the back transistor is a 2.1 charge port for the battery and the transistor is the kill key. The front transistor is a real one. Here are some pics. Click on the pictures for a larger image:
I used the wiring diagram from this thread http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=255359&page=6 scroll down to post 144 from Shoot2Thrill468. The Tri-Cree LED, Battery and Recharge port from TCSS. The speaker I picked up on Ebay: (Railmaster Hobbies DHB27-8 High Bass speaker 8 Ohm). Here is a PDF of how and where I put the components inside the saber hilt: OWK_20160314_0001.pdf
I bought my recharge port from Parts Express http://www.parts-express.com/21mm-panel-mount-dc-jack--090-5012 . I trimmed back the contacts, so that they didn't stick out as much. I removed the split ring washer and threaded the nut all the way down. I took one of the round disk that comes with the transistor set from Romans Empire and opened up the center hole big enough to run a 5/16-32 tap through to create some thread. Drilled out that back hole on the clamp 5/16 dia and pushed the recharge port through from the inside. Threaded on the disk and tighten the nut from the inside of the clamp (not easy) until the port was snug. The kill key was made using one of Roman's transistor top and one of Goth's kill key
I connected the blue led + for the crystal into the 3.3 volt accent led output, but I connected - to the high power led pad L- instead of the - battery pad. This way the led turns on at the same time as the emitter. It is lot easier than trying to solder to the deep sleep pad.
Neo, the quick fix for the tightening up is get a thick piece of card stock and cut a ring/ washer type that will go in between the ring and grenade. this should help. also check to see if the set screw is not touching the bottom
ill post a pick asap!