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Sabs

Active Member
Let me know if i can help
The easiest would be if you print out one of the pages of drawings, and correct the measurements with pen based on correct ones you take from a part. Then you could scan or take a picture of the corrected drawing and email it to me or post it to the forum and I can update the drawing.

I'm working on making a more up to date drawing of the grenade body now, and then I will re upload all the drawings with both Inches and millimeters marked on the drawings since as someone mentioned before, most of the parts were produced in inches.

sabs
 

Sabs

Active Member
Hello again,

The Grenade body now has a version 2.

The other parts will me made in a similar way as best I can, though the tolerances will probably not be included as I have done for this drawing unless I am able to get my hands on the original production drawings for other parts as well. I was able to add them because of I have the drawings of the Mark I grenade, which I have also uploaded, and that has limit tolerances which I have copied.

Please enjoy the grenade body in full imperial and metric dimensions.

Sabs
 

Sabs

Active Member
Anyone want to right some wrongs on these Drawings? I'm really interested (and struggling with) the brass parts of the grenade. Windvane blades, etc. How thick are they? How long are they? Other dimensions.

Pms are fine if you want to be anonymous.

Come on, it's lock down, what else have you got to do?
 

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chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I’ve been learning CAD (Solidworks more specifically) for the past year and I started playing with these blueprints to help my learning curve. Doubt I’ll do all of them anytime soon and I know the font isn’t correct but it’s the closest I think the program has..

70FF8436-152B-4FB3-A559-A9E9FB56FF85.png
 
Last edited:

Sabs

Active Member
I’ve been learning CAD (Solidworks more specifically) for the past year and I started playing with these blueprints to help my learning curve. Doubt I’ll do all of them anytime soon and I know the font isn’t correct but it’s the closest I think the program has..

View attachment 1499819
nice work! I made all the parts on SW, so let me know if you want the original files to compare how I made them. This part I actually made twice, because if you put the tabs in, SW won't unfold it for you as a sheet metal part since it doesn't like compound curves.

For the proper lettering, you can find it online, then in Illustrator trace them, save that file as a DXF and import it into SW as a sketch. Then you can use it in your part as a wrap or cut or whatever you prefer to make it perfect. If you ever need it to be made by someone, just put the sketch in the drawing, and the sheet metal guys will laser it, or etch it on the sheet before bending it. Just have the size of the text as a box on the drawing. Too much Info? you bet.

Keep up the good work, and if you come across any improvements to the parts, feel free to share so we can update the drawings.

Sabs
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
nice work! I made all the parts on SW, so let me know if you want the original files to compare how I made them. This part I actually made twice, because if you put the tabs in, SW won't unfold it for you as a sheet metal part since it doesn't like compound curves.

For the proper lettering, you can find it online, then in Illustrator trace them, save that file as a DXF and import it into SW as a sketch. Then you can use it in your part as a wrap or cut or whatever you prefer to make it perfect. If you ever need it to be made by someone, just put the sketch in the drawing, and the sheet metal guys will laser it, or etch it on the sheet before bending it. Just have the size of the text as a box on the drawing. Too much Info? you bet.

Keep up the good work, and if you come across any improvements to the parts, feel free to share so we can update the drawings.

Sabs
Hey Sabs i really appreciate the offer and ill keep it in mind. But this project is another great way for me to keep learning all the details involved within SW. If I do end up making these parts it will be with MJF so I won’t have to worry about metal issues to be honest. My only issue is when designing them I will have to keep an eye out for tolerances as far as parts fitting together. Also I draw in inches and these are all in MM which isn’t a major issue but again it’s all a learning curve. I know I can switch over to MM without issue in SW as well if needed. Thanks for the tip on finding the correct text. There is never enough help one can receive so I truly appreciate it.

Thanks again and I’ll post any progress I make here along the way.

Cheers!

J
 

Sabs

Active Member
I am in the process of remaking it in inches actually, and making drawings with both values written on them. I've also been putting the tolerances in the drawings, or with limits if I know them.

in case you didn't know, even if you are making it in inches, when you type the value into the dimension box you can type 23mm and it will convert it to 1inch for you without changing your preferences. I've started doing that in reverse, then rounding to the nearest value.


My model has two configurations for each part, one for 3d printing and one for machining (not that I will probably ever get it machined because of the cost) and then I have enough tolerance to have it fit snuggly.

Also I've gotten some parts printed in SLA, so they are super smooth, and made molds in high temp silicon. I've had some success casting the parts in Tin that i've been collecting from flea markets. I'll have a metal light saber yet!

Sabs
 

danvader

Well-Known Member
Congratulation Sabs, your work is impressive !
I hope members who have genuine vintage parts will help you to check and finish the measurements

I've had some success casting the parts in Tin that i've been collecting from flea markets. I'll have a metal light saber yet!
I would be happy to learn the process and to admire the result !
 

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