ANH OB1 lightsaber.

Well don't. :p The pommel wasn't that weathered (if it was weathered at all) on screen in the Tunisia shoot. We would forgive you if that masterpiece of yours would stay unweathered. ;)
 
No need to weather that booster ... just handle it once or twice a day with dirty hands, as in : stick your hands in the dirt, whipe the excess dirt off and grab your lightaber by the booster and swissh swoosh it several times around, switch regularly from the right hand into the left and keep rolling it in the palms of your dirty hands as if it were a tennis racket, savey? :lol

Now how about that inconel replica emitter you were mentioning?

Nice work Patrice :D

-Chaim
 
too expensive for the inconel
I think I will try one shot for me,if I have time and money to spend.

I think I can make core from inconel,and rim from 304 or 316 steel.

The "working"version of emitter will be made from 304 and 316 steel

Same problem for the replica caps,if it's to sell them 100$,it's better to buy a original AS handwheel....

The new booster, it needs the TIN treatment now, hope it will come back soon so I can weather it.
It's accurate, but larger inside and different thread to get more room on clamp side.
booster brut d'usinage.jpg
 
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Nice Patrice ... there should be a bit more visible of the booster-screw just before the pommel :

BoosterHandwheel.jpg


See bottom picture here too :

ASHandwheelD-Ring01.jpg


Also notice the hole for the D-ring is not quite in the center of the pommel-cube
. . . it is slightly closer to the 30° angled side!

-Chaim
 
I don't want to leave more room between pommel and booster,and don't make a D ring hole,will consider original photos of saber in average condition,not necessary working haha.
 
I love those turquoise bits

p1080111.jpg


______________________________________________ :love ____________________________________________
-Chaim
 
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The matter with the antique pommel is that it comes REALLY from YAVIN 4,I fount it a couple of years ago...

To obtain ths finish,with green-blue color you have to make the pommel from brass or affiliates.

If you want to obtain this aspect with a Russ Pommel,would be possible too,because made of steel,but color will get closer to chocolate...

Not sure it will work on aluminum...

You choose you pommel,then damage it,as you want...
You can sand it to remove some chrome,but it's not necessary.
You display the pommel in earth in a glass container,closed,then you add a little bit of acid or ammonia,depending on material,and you wait,a couple of weeks or more if you can,then you open to make it dry,and then you remove.
Ah..
You have to pray,any god,no matter...

If you are lucky,the chome will flake on Russ pommel,as it did on mine.
 
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I'm looking for a old grenade section,accurate,but damaged,to make a "relic" saber.
about emitter,I don't know how to do,but I will find a way.
I'm looking for a real graflex clamp too,not too damaged,to replace my actual clamp,ant then treat it as a relic,then will miss a booster,to treat my actual booster as a relic,and finally make a complete relic saber...
I would find a real booster,not to keep it,but to have it as a model,to get sure about accuracy...and make a replica.
 
I wanted to make update for several weeks,but it makes now 3 weeks I'm waiting for Internet at home....
I'm posting reply with phone,and I can't post photos.

I have made a special emitter for a friend,who has a parks mk3
I'm planning to make a run,for parks and russ sabers.
The emitter has same look as a standart windvane,but it permit to display Led and blade for a fx saber.
 
I achieved the emitter today,what a shame,I took photos,but not during weathering,that was really impressive.
It's a parks version emitter,for a friend,I will make mine asap,and this time I will take shots of weathering!
I have to put the led and take shots with light on,hope it will be nice!
 
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