ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion - Three ANH Greeblies Found
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kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
Here are the modifications I made so far.
Denix:
Re-Contoured frame
Re-contoured trigger hole
Re-contoured upper receiver rails to fit bull barrel
Lowered receiver to fit frame for proper proportions
Removed denix logo
Removed receiver mount hole
Added receiver details and markings
Cut and turned barrel to receive bull barrel
Adjusted slide grip size and Re-cut grip knurls
Removed firing pin so hammer would sit against slide properly.
Re-contoured hammer to proper shape
Re-cut hammer knurls
Re-cut hammer hole rings
Narrowed hammer
Re-contoured and cleaned up rear sight and housing
Removed rear sight “washer rings” and beveled holes
Re-cut sight pin
Added detail at front of sight and rear of housing
Added machine marks in receiver
Added slide mounted case extractor
Reshaped safety and re-cut knurls
Reshaped slide release
Re-contoured trigger
Shortened and re-contoured magazine bump to proper size
Added “disk” recess on left side
Added magazine well detail at front and bottom ... need to add button.
Re-contoured lanyard ring
Turned grip screw, boss and nut (brass)
Re-cut grips and checkering
Scribed trigger /firing group assembly at rear of frame and added release latch.
Re-cut shoulder stock groove
Here are the modifications I made so far.
Denix:
Re-Contoured frame
Re-contoured trigger hole
Re-contoured upper receiver rails to fit bull barrel
Lowered receiver to fit frame for proper proportions
Removed denix logo
Removed receiver mount hole
Added receiver details and markings
Cut and turned barrel to receive bull barrel
Adjusted slide grip size and Re-cut grip knurls
Removed firing pin so hammer would sit against slide properly.
Re-contoured hammer to proper shape
Re-cut hammer knurls
Re-cut hammer hole rings
Narrowed hammer
Re-contoured and cleaned up rear sight and housing
Removed rear sight “washer rings” and beveled holes
Re-cut sight pin
Added detail at front of sight and rear of housing
Added machine marks in receiver
Added slide mounted case extractor
Reshaped safety and re-cut knurls
Reshaped slide release
Re-contoured trigger
Shortened and re-contoured magazine bump to proper size
Added “disk” recess on left side
Added magazine well detail at front and bottom ... need to add button.
Re-contoured lanyard ring
Turned grip screw, boss and nut (brass)
Re-cut grips and checkering
Scribed trigger /firing group assembly at rear of frame and added release latch.
Re-cut shoulder stock groove
Last edited:
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
I got rid of the screw and made the lip more like the real Mauser and plan to attach the receivers by adding a small screw hole and nut under the slide. To disassemble, you would hold back the slide to unscrew the screw.
The nut can be epoxied to the inside of the Mag Well and a large washer (with small hole) can be shaped and epoxied to the under side of the upper receiver.
You would still use the rear upper pin.
I got rid of the screw and made the lip more like the real Mauser and plan to attach the receivers by adding a small screw hole and nut under the slide. To disassemble, you would hold back the slide to unscrew the screw.
The nut can be epoxied to the inside of the Mag Well and a large washer (with small hole) can be shaped and epoxied to the under side of the upper receiver.
You would still use the rear upper pin.
Brinn 71
Well-Known Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
Beautiful list of mods kpax!
I have a question. I just received my wood gripped Denix and I love it. It seems to be oiled. Do you use rubbing alcohol to remove the oil to seal or repaint it? It seems to be a graphite colour? Is that finish what everyone else has? And where can I get the correct screw and nut for the grips?
After you finish with all the mods what are you going to use to paint/seal your Denix kpax?
And, are they cutting metal yet? :love
Beautiful list of mods kpax!
I have a question. I just received my wood gripped Denix and I love it. It seems to be oiled. Do you use rubbing alcohol to remove the oil to seal or repaint it? It seems to be a graphite colour? Is that finish what everyone else has? And where can I get the correct screw and nut for the grips?
After you finish with all the mods what are you going to use to paint/seal your Denix kpax?
And, are they cutting metal yet? :love
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
You can just wipe off the oil to start. If you plan to refinish, you will need to sand the surface anyway. I found the sponge sanding blocks work well.
Do any reshaping/ filling etc. then refinish as desired.
For the grip screws, some work will be needed.
James Godfrey Replacement Grip Screw Escutcheon Set
You will need something like this. Grip Screw and Escutcheon Set.
$3.99 from Midway.
You will need to modify the grips to accept the escutcheons by counter sinking the hole.
You can drill out the grip screw holes in the Denix frame bigger than needed to allow for some play and fitting. The new screw will go through that hole and tighten on the other escutcheon.
I made mine with a brass machine screw and two brass nuts by turning them using a drill and file and made them the size and shape of the HERO screws.
You then glue the escutcheons in the wood grips (after dry fitting)
I am going to use a colored/tinted lacquer to repaint the entire blaster with a deep blue black to simulate the Mauser bluing. The Lacquer is great since it is very hard and can be handled a lot.
You can just wipe off the oil to start. If you plan to refinish, you will need to sand the surface anyway. I found the sponge sanding blocks work well.
Do any reshaping/ filling etc. then refinish as desired.
For the grip screws, some work will be needed.
James Godfrey Replacement Grip Screw Escutcheon Set
You will need something like this. Grip Screw and Escutcheon Set.
$3.99 from Midway.
You will need to modify the grips to accept the escutcheons by counter sinking the hole.
You can drill out the grip screw holes in the Denix frame bigger than needed to allow for some play and fitting. The new screw will go through that hole and tighten on the other escutcheon.
I made mine with a brass machine screw and two brass nuts by turning them using a drill and file and made them the size and shape of the HERO screws.
You then glue the escutcheons in the wood grips (after dry fitting)
I am going to use a colored/tinted lacquer to repaint the entire blaster with a deep blue black to simulate the Mauser bluing. The Lacquer is great since it is very hard and can be handled a lot.
kpax
Sr Member
Re: ANH Hero DL-44 Discussion
there are many brands available depending where you are.
Tone Finish Toners - Mohawk Finishing
Rothko and Frost - Coloured and Tinted Lacquer
Buy nitrocellulose lacquer and guitar hardware — Custom Colour : manchesterguitartech.co.uk
STEWMAC.COM : ColorTone Liquid Pigment for Lacquer
BLACK Tinted Neat Nitrocellulose Nitro Vintage Guitar LACQUER 250ml | eBay
You can buy aerosol cans or pigments for an airbrush/spray gun.
I think if you strip the frame to bare metal and spray just black, you could build up layers of color til nearly black but allowing some of the metal shine to come thru just like gun blueing.
You can also use a blue tinted undercoat and then add the black over it until the desired shade is reached.
These lacquers allow you to slowly build the color layer and dry very fast and hard and can be stripped if you mess up!
there are many brands available depending where you are.
Tone Finish Toners - Mohawk Finishing
Rothko and Frost - Coloured and Tinted Lacquer
Buy nitrocellulose lacquer and guitar hardware — Custom Colour : manchesterguitartech.co.uk
STEWMAC.COM : ColorTone Liquid Pigment for Lacquer
BLACK Tinted Neat Nitrocellulose Nitro Vintage Guitar LACQUER 250ml | eBay
You can buy aerosol cans or pigments for an airbrush/spray gun.
I think if you strip the frame to bare metal and spray just black, you could build up layers of color til nearly black but allowing some of the metal shine to come thru just like gun blueing.
You can also use a blue tinted undercoat and then add the black over it until the desired shade is reached.
These lacquers allow you to slowly build the color layer and dry very fast and hard and can be stripped if you mess up!
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