Anakin Starkiller's New Luke ROTJ Hero saber design thread

[Verity Cosplay]

Quick parts list for emitter and blade pixel setup:

Option 1 (KR connectors):
- Connector set: KR NeoPixel LED Strip Rotary PCB Connector Set - The Saber Armory

- Data line resistor for blade-side PCB: 330ohm 0603 SMD Resistor - The Saber Armory

- Pogo holder set for blade and hilt (because of the pin positions. You will not use the hilt-side pin cover: MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

LED cup should be trimmed to 8mm inside depth for this set of connectors

Option 2 TCSS connectors:

- Connector set: Pre-Soldered NeoPixel PCB connector and 7 pin set

- Data line resistor: 330 ohm SMD 0603 resistor
- Pogo holder set for blade and hilt MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

Once again, led cup to be trimmed to 8mm inside depth.

Option 3 Shtok connectors:

- Connector set: (individually sold)
-- Hilt: Hilt SIde NPXL NeoPixel LED Connector (select short pin option)
-- Blade: ShtokCustomWorx NPXL NeoPixel LED Connector Pcb Blade Side (select V2 w/o LEDs)

- Data line resistor: (pick one up from either KR or TCSS above. 0603 330 ohm 1/8w)

- Holders:
-- Hilt: LP HILT NPXL Pogo Connector Holder by ShtokyD on Shapeways (select size to match the ID of the cup)
-- Blade: BLADE NPXL Pogo Connector Holder THIN-NECK V2 by ShtokyD on Shapeways

I believe you want inside depth of the cup to be trimmed to 6mm but I am not positive as I have not installed any of my Shtok connectors yet. I would seat them and then mark off where it should be trimmed to So the lip of the cup is flush to the wall of the holder.

Hope this helps Halliwax. Happy to answer any other questions.

also note, there are other ways to connect pixel using things like 1/4 or even 1/8 headphone jacks, aviation/XLR type connectors and such, but the above represents the most user friendly setups.

EDIT:

So how this breaks down on the hilt side (using my Mk1 pics but general construction is the same) once the cup is trimmed and the holders are procured (pics using the TCSS connector option above).

you will have two pads for negative, two for positive and one for data. Now you generally can use a single larger gauge (20-22 AWG) or a couple smaller gauge (24-26 AWG) wires for the current load. (I tend to favor two 24 AWG PTFE wire for 2-strip blades and two 22 AWG for 3+ strip blades). You only need a 30 AWG or so for the data line.

when soldered to the hilt-side PCB it will look like this:

Then you seat that inside the holder:

Then seat that into the trimmed cup and put the cover on it:

Now you run wires down through the neck and viola. (You get the idea from here).

now for BLADE side you want to add the data line 0603 resistor on the appropriate spot on the board (this will vary based on which option you chose, but all three vendors usually have instructions for this.

here is what it looks like on the TCSS blade-side PCB:

(note the 0603 SMD resistor center-bottom. Disregard the axial resistor here; that is a Proffieboard thing to handle its "blade ID" feature.)

now you will fit that INSIDE the blade tube using the blade side holder:

Now note: this means you CANNOT just buy a flush ended blade. It has to be a RECESSED pcb. So either you need to make your own blade, or have someone make it custom to your hilt.

I tend to "standardize" all my cups for all of my thin neck sabers to use the same dimensions of cups so I can reuse blades between all of my thin neck sabers (Roman MK1, Lukyanov Creepy Uncle, Roman Balance v4, and Solo's Hold V2).

but there you go!

 

[Halliwax]

Quick parts list for emitter and blade pixel setup:

Option 1 (KR connectors):
- Connector set: KR NeoPixel LED Strip Rotary PCB Connector Set - The Saber Armory

- Data line resistor for blade-side PCB: 330ohm 0603 SMD Resistor - The Saber Armory

- Pogo holder set for blade and hilt (because of the pin positions. You will not use the hilt-side pin cover: MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

LED cup should be trimmed to 8mm inside depth for this set of connectors

Option 2 TCSS connectors:

- Connector set: Pre-Soldered NeoPixel PCB connector and 7 pin set

- Data line resistor: 330 ohm SMD 0603 resistor
- Pogo holder set for blade and hilt MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

Once again, led cup to be trimmed to 8mm inside depth.

Option 3 Shtok connectors:

- Connector set: (individually sold)
-- Hilt: Hilt SIde NPXL NeoPixel LED Connector (select short pin option)
-- Blade: ShtokCustomWorx NPXL NeoPixel LED Connector Pcb Blade Side (select V2 w/o LEDs)

- Data line resistor: (pick one up from either KR or TCSS above. 0603 330 ohm 1/8w)

- Holders:
-- Hilt: LP HILT NPXL Pogo Connector Holder by ShtokyD on Shapeways (select size to match the ID of the cup)
-- Blade: BLADE NPXL Pogo Connector Holder THIN-NECK V2 by ShtokyD on Shapeways

I believe you want inside depth of the cup to be trimmed to 6mm but I am not positive as I have not installed any of my Shtok connectors yet. I would seat them and then mark off where it should be trimmed to So the lip of the cup is flush to the wall of the holder.

Hope this helps Halliwax. Happy to answer any other questions.

also note, there are other ways to connect pixel using things like 1/4 or even 1/8 headphone jacks, aviation/XLR type connectors and such, but the above represents the most user friendly setups.

Dude you made this too easy! I seriously appreciate you taking the time and making this list for me!

I skimmed through the manual, sure does look like it needs 2 switches, I have to redesign my boat to work with the slide switch

Maybe include some kind of spring switch..

 

[Halliwax]

Also, that pewter V3 is badass

Dude you have no idea how cool that damn thing is!!

 

[Halliwax]

Last I checked, CFX needs two switches. I know Plecter was planning on doing a one switch setup but hasn't got to it yet. Proffie does have the capabilities to do a one switch set up. I personally haven't done that but I will probably need to when I install my Qui-Gon hilt.

You’re right buddy, I’m gonna have to redesign my boat

 

[Verity Cosplay]

Dude you made this too easy! I seriously appreciate you taking the time and making this list for me!

I skimmed through the manual, sure does look like it needs 2 switches, I have to redesign my boat to work with the slide switch

Maybe include some kind of spring switch..

no problem. I do pretty much exclusively pixel sabers now so... I'm pretty savvy on the various ways to set them up.

i will warn you. Pixel blades will eat a 18650 runtime like cake.

if you are using a 18650 don't expect much runtime. I generally try to jam a 21700 minimum in pixel builds.

one trick to do this with 18650 chassis are to get the ones designed to accommodate a keystone 18650 removable holder and use the larger compartment for a fixed 21700 setup.

 

[Verity Cosplay]

Dude you made this too easy! I seriously appreciate you taking the time and making this list for me!

I skimmed through the manual, sure does look like it needs 2 switches, I have to redesign my boat to work with the slide switch

Maybe include some kind of spring switch..

I just made an update to illustrate setting up the connections and holders as well.

 

[Halliwax]

I just made an update to illustrate setting up the connections and holders as well.

I’m a visual learner this helps put so much!!

Really appreciate this man!

 

[Verity Cosplay]

I’m a visual learner this helps put so much!!

Really appreciate this man!

You bet.

i know folks like the "recessed pixel" socket found in some hilts (even Lukyanov's Gen3 CU has this now) but I actually don't like it.

the main reason is that because thin necks have relatively shallow sockets in general (20mm give or take). The method that we are adopting for our MoM and that Anakin Starkiller put into his with the led cup along with folks like Roman and SH for their thin necks ACTUALLY is stronger. The blade's bottom wall effectively gets sandwiched between the blade socket and the led cup. This stabilizes the blade more for impact and also distributes the tensile stress across the entire emitter more evenly vs having stress risers occurring at the socket edge and increasing the likelihood of issues during heavy impact of the blade.

while it mandates specialized blades it does have a ton of benefit for dueling.

 

[PhantomPickle]

I just made an update to illustrate setting up the connections and holders as well.

Where was this when I did my first install a month ago lol?! Seriously this is super helpful. Thank you.

 

[Verity Cosplay]

T


Where was this when I did my first install a month ago lol?! Seriously this is super helpful. Thank you.

I actually have a few build logs of builds (this MK1 included) over at TRA

 

[PhantomPickle]

I actually have a few build logs of builds (this MK1 included) over at TRA

I'll have to check these out. I haven't frequented that forum much (still rather new to the hobby). Thank you.

 

[Verity Cosplay]

I'll have to check these out. I haven't frequented that forum much (still rather new to the hobby). Thank you.

I'm dayadjocen over there.

 

[chazzychaz]

Got a little work done on mine:
View attachment 1252746

What did you shoot for color please?

 

[Reel Fakes]

Ace antique gold and Tamiya matte black

 

[chazzychaz]

Ace antique gold and Tamiya matte black

that is incredible

 

[dr_slurpee]

Hoping someone is able to come up with Canada friendly paint option!

 

[Reel Fakes]

that is incredible

Thanks - forgot to mention I put a coat of Krylon Matte Finish (1311) over the Ace gold

 

[el toro]

Agreed.

I "finished" mine up. This is the 5th ROTJ hero I've had, and this is definitely the most accurate!
It just looks right - Know what I mean? Thanks, Dan! Now get that TPM Obi-Wan rolling!

View attachment 1253479

View attachment 1253480

 

[chazzychaz]

has anyone gotten a tracking number? for their saber

 

[chazzychaz]

Quick parts list for emitter and blade pixel setup:

Option 1 (KR connectors):
- Connector set: KR NeoPixel LED Strip Rotary PCB Connector Set - The Saber Armory

- Data line resistor for blade-side PCB: 330ohm 0603 SMD Resistor - The Saber Armory

- Pogo holder set for blade and hilt (because of the pin positions. You will not use the hilt-side pin cover: MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

LED cup should be trimmed to 8mm inside depth for this set of connectors

Option 2 TCSS connectors:

- Connector set: Pre-Soldered NeoPixel PCB connector and 7 pin set

- Data line resistor: 330 ohm SMD 0603 resistor
- Pogo holder set for blade and hilt MK1 (TCSS Blade) Neopixel Adapter by wolf69 on Shapeways

Once again, led cup to be trimmed to 8mm inside depth.

Option 3 Shtok connectors:

- Connector set: (individually sold)
-- Hilt: Hilt SIde NPXL NeoPixel LED Connector (select short pin option)
-- Blade: ShtokCustomWorx NPXL NeoPixel LED Connector Pcb Blade Side (select V2 w/o LEDs)

- Data line resistor: (pick one up from either KR or TCSS above. 0603 330 ohm 1/8w)

- Holders:
-- Hilt: LP HILT NPXL Pogo Connector Holder by ShtokyD on Shapeways (select size to match the ID of the cup)
-- Blade: BLADE NPXL Pogo Connector Holder THIN-NECK V2 by ShtokyD on Shapeways

I believe you want inside depth of the cup to be trimmed to 6mm but I am not positive as I have not installed any of my Shtok connectors yet. I would seat them and then mark off where it should be trimmed to So the lip of the cup is flush to the wall of the holder.

Hope this helps Halliwax. Happy to answer any other questions.

also note, there are other ways to connect pixel using things like 1/4 or even 1/8 headphone jacks, aviation/XLR type connectors and such, but the above represents the most user friendly setups.

EDIT:

So how this breaks down on the hilt side (using my Mk1 pics but general construction is the same) once the cup is trimmed and the holders are procured (pics using the TCSS connector option above).

you will have two pads for negative, two for positive and one for data. Now you generally can use a single larger gauge (20-22 AWG) or a couple smaller gauge (24-26 AWG) wires for the current load. (I tend to favor two 24 AWG PTFE wire for 2-strip blades and two 22 AWG for 3+ strip blades). You only need a 30 AWG or so for the data line.

when soldered to the hilt-side PCB it will look like this:

View attachment 1254195

Then you seat that inside the holder:

View attachment 1254196

Then seat that into the trimmed cup and put the cover on it:

View attachment 1254197

Now you run wires down through the neck and viola. (You get the idea from here).

now for BLADE side you want to add the data line 0603 resistor on the appropriate spot on the board (this will vary based on which option you chose, but all three vendors usually have instructions for this.

here is what it looks like on the TCSS blade-side PCB:

View attachment 1254198

(note the 0603 SMD resistor center-bottom. Disregard the axial resistor here; that is a Proffieboard thing to handle its "blade ID" feature.)

now you will fit that INSIDE the blade tube using the blade side holder:

View attachment 1254199

Now note: this means you CANNOT just buy a flush ended blade. It has to be a RECESSED pcb. So either you need to make your own blade, or have someone make it custom to your hilt.

I tend to "standardize" all my cups for all of my thin neck sabers to use the same dimensions of cups so I can reuse blades between all of my thin neck sabers (Roman MK1, Lukyanov Creepy Uncle, Roman Balance v4, and Solo's Hold V2).

but there you go!

Those things a very versatile. I use them to eliminate loosed wires in thin neck sabers