Anakin ROTS resin "stunt"

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Gregatron

Sr Member
Despite having the Master Replicas Limited Edition Anakin ROTS saber, I decided it would be nice to have a "stunt" one to be able to handle and such. Just a fun little project for winter, y'know? I was tempted to look for the EFX "stunt" replica, but it seems more than a little hard to find.


So, I recently acquired a cheap resin casting of the saber (which looks to be molded right off of the MR). It's a good casting, but I plan on tweaking it to make it a bit nicer. I'd like to remove the resin grips, and replace them with rubber ones. I have a set of ANH grips, but they feature angled edges instead of rounded.

There was a time when everyone made and used round-edge grips. Now, it's all accurate, angled grips. Anyone know where I can find some cheap rubber grips with the correct ROTS edges?

I also got a Covertec wheel to replace the resin one, and will be getting a brass circuit card for the control box.

While it would be nice to get the saber chromed, I think I'll have to settle on chrome paint, with aluminum paint for the center band. Any good chrome paint suggestions? Also, any suggestions for the copper button and eye color? Looks like more of a reddish copper on the MR than a goldish copper.

Thanks!
 

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Sym-Cha

Master Member
Roy sells accurate enough plastic T-track : www.wannawanga.com but also some rubber prototype ... and I read a recent article somewhere about a new chroming paint ... if only I knew where :wacko

Chaim
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
Hmm. Those wannawanga grips still look to have angled edges. Alternatively, I suppose I could just clean up and paint the resin grips. Maybe even coat them with some sort of liquid rubber.
 

James Kenobi 1138

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I'm not sure if the Anakin saber has the same grips as the OT sabers, remember the PT hero sabers are 1.25 diameter and not 1.5 so regular OT grips will not fit properly.
 

James Kenobi 1138

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
You could do more damage to the saber trying to remove the grips then leaving them on. If you're going for a shiny chrome look you would want to paint the saber gloss black first anyway. Paint it black, mask the port holes, plug and grips and spray with a chrome paint, remove the mask and you're 90% done.
 

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Wait a LONG time before masking off the black. I was too hasty with my ROTJ resin saber and did it too early. When the paint's completely dry this is very straightforward.

I used a rustoleum chrome paint. It was one of those 2x coverage cans....and I sanded and primed before the black. Rustoleum automotive primer. Sounds like you're going to make a beautiful saber

ALSO, try mixing copper with reds and blacks to get the right shades for the buttons! I did this to get the maroon-y shade for my V2 neck.
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
I'm not sure if the Anakin saber has the same grips as the OT sabers, remember the PT hero sabers are 1.25 diameter and not 1.5 so regular OT grips will not fit properly.

Comparing the molded grips to the TCSS/Blast-Tech grips, the difference seems negligible. Same length, same width, and the curvature looks about the same. The only real difference is the shape of the edges and the thickness of the ridges.
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
You could do more damage to the saber trying to remove the grips then leaving them on. If you're going for a shiny chrome look you would want to paint the saber gloss black first anyway. Paint it black, mask the port holes, plug and grips and spray with a chrome paint, remove the mask and you're 90% done.


I don't think it would be that hard to Dremel off the grips, then sand and fill the whole lower tube body smooth. It would also make the chrome painting process much easier, if I didn't have to mask the resin grips and Covertec.

Besides, painted resin grips just won't look or feel quite as good as actual plant-on rubber grips.

I also note that the engraved rings are missing from the bottom endcap. I'll have to scribe them back on. Fortunately, I have the MR replica for reference.
 

Sym-Cha

Master Member
Hmm. Those wannawanga grips still look to have angled edges.

Unless I don't know what you mean by angled edges ... Roy's T-track ship RAW with a straight edge on both ends of the track ... any curves or angles have to be done and added yourself ... he also sells a rubber variant like Blast-Tech did, just with a better more accurate profile.

Chaim
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
Unless I don't know what you mean by angled edges ... Roy's T-track ship RAW with a straight edge on both ends of the track ... any curves or angles have to be done and added yourself ... he also sells a rubber variant like Blast-Tech did, just with a better more accurate profile.

Chaim


By "angled edges" I mean that the ends of the raised ribs slant down at an angle, rather than the more graceful curve of many older replicas (and the MR replicas).

However, if the wannawanga t-track comes raw, then perhaps I can do it myself. I'm just wondering what the best method to round off the edges is, especially with rubber. Unless I go for plastic grips, then use some spray-on rubber after the correct profile is achieved.
 

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
As far as I know, Roy's track is dead-on screen accurate for the original trilogy. Lightsaber props made for the prequels are thinner and had custom grips made as part of each design. (which means different overall size and shape) There isn't replica track made for Anakin's Lightsaber from ROTS, but you might be able to find some MR parts on ebay!
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
As far as I know, Roy's track is dead-on screen accurate for the original trilogy. Lightsaber props made for the prequels are thinner and had custom grips made as part of each design. (which means different overall size and shape) There isn't replica track made for Anakin's Lightsaber from ROTS, but you might be able to find some MR parts on ebay!

I think I've found a solution. Ordered some cast resin ANH, MR-style grips from eBay. They have the correct, rounded ends, and, being resin, can be modified for fit and shape as needed. Then, I'll apply some spray-on black rubber.

Fact of the matter is, the molded-on resin grips are a bit too warped to look good without a lot of work. At the very least, masking them for chrome painting would be a pain. Better to remove and replace them entirely, I think.
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
Dremeled off the resin grips. Now working to fill and sand the lower body nice and smooth. Before removing the resin grips and Covertec, I drilled a hole down into the body, through the resin screw at the center of the resin Covertec. This will allow for accurate placement of the real Covertec, later on. Acquired some spray-on rubber, and began scoping out chrome paints. Again, any suggestions for the best faux-chrome finish would be appreciated.
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
Some progress photos. Been puttying and sanding the lower half, which has now received a few coats of high-build primer. And I removed the resin circuit board in the clamp section to make way for a real one, and scribed the rings into the bottom end. Also note the Covertec hole.

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice work on the bottom! Was it difficult keeping a consistant profile while removing/puttying?

good call on the greeblies too
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
Nice work on the bottom! Was it difficult keeping a consistant profile while removing/puttying?

good call on the greeblies too


It it just takes patience. I used a sanding drum in a Dremel to remove the bulk of the grips. Then, lots of elbow grease with sandpaper and files. Once the grip sections were essentially flush with the main tube body, it was just a matter of applying and smoothing out generous amounts of putty, then sanding some more. Lather, rinse, repeat. Then filler primer, and more sanding, followed by more putty. Lather, rinse, repeat! What you see in the photos is the result of a mere afternoon's work. It was much easier than I thought it would be.
 

Sym-Cha

Master Member
This would look perfect if only you could have the saber properly chromed for a reasonable amount ... as they also did with the rubber stunt versions for the Prequels ... perhaps worth looking into locally?

Chaim
 

Gregatron

Sr Member
This would look perfect if only you could have the saber properly chromed for a reasonable amount ... as they also did with the rubber stunt versions for the Prequels ... perhaps worth looking into locally?

Chaim

I've toyed with the idea. There are about a half-dozen chroming businesses within a reasonable distance from me. In the end, it all seems too impractical. There are just too many variables--the chance that the prop will be damaged or "lost", the cost, etc.

Doing it myself with paints is a much more controllable process, too. If I send it off to some business, who knows what'll come back. These places all sandblast and clean parts to be chromed. That wouldn't bode well for all of the putty work and such that I've already put into it.
 

Sym-Cha

Master Member
Yeah ... I hear you ... either send it to a propbuilder like Adam Savage who cares for such a project ... or do it yourself indeed I suppose ... although I personally love to get in touch with such businesses and meet new people and learn something new ... in the end it boils down to how you connect to them and whether you trust them enough if they will deliver the end-result. It's all about passion for lightsaber props making :)

Chaim
 

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