An elegant weapon for a more civilized age

Discussion in 'Star Wars Costumes and Props' started by The Terminator, Jun 14, 2015.

  1. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    WiP thread

    Bought an MPP replica from the amazing folks at JQ sabers.
    Myvadsaber1.jpg Myvadsaber2.jpg

    This is going to be turned into a HERO ESB/ROTJ Vader saber. With no sound, no blade and no electronics.

    At the moment though it's in pieces and I would love some tips on how to assemble it :wacko
    Taking it apart, easy as pie. Putting it back together... different story. :(

    disassembled1.jpg disassembled2.jpg

    I also still need to buy some T-tracks grips from GINO(probably).
     
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  2. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    The colors for the wires are red, brown-red (my brown is a little to light in color), grey, white and blue :

    [​IMG]

    T-tracks from wannawanga are just as good for a replica MPP and a lot closer to home being from Rotterdam ;)

    As for assembling back together that's a whole other matter, why did you have to dis-assemble it in the first place?

    Chaim
     
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  3. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That I know :) I have done quite a bit of research and I also joined http://forum.501stsithlords.com/index.php and seen quite a lot of your very informative posts ;) :D
    I also have royal blue and white cables, not pictured.

    Most vader sabers seem to have a thicker red wire and I had a hard time trying to attach it, so I thought I could easily dis-assemble the thing and make the holes bigger or something similar. That didn't really work out :p

    The parts just does not want to come back together, it is almost like I need the force :lol
     
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  4. mugatu

    mugatu Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I haven't taken apart an MPP before. Wish I could help.
     
  5. dday

    dday Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I second getting tracks from www.wannawanga.com Roys tracks are spot on, and a lot cheaper than the alternative.
     
  6. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    I assume you do remember the order in which the parts were attached before you took the MPP Replica apart? So it's a matter they won't slide back to it's original position?

    Chaim
     
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  7. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It seems no one else have been that stupid before. Go me :p
    I have searched the net for more than a few hours :(

    I mostly remember, however those tiny little pieces on the left, are a different story. :( :(
     
  8. CSMacLaren

    CSMacLaren Sr Member

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    How does one get a D ring on the black hood so it can be used with a belt hook?
     
  9. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Not quite sure I understand what you're asking :confused
     
  10. CSMacLaren

    CSMacLaren Sr Member

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    The D-Ring would eventually be attached somehow under the thumbscrew of the black shroud of the lightsaber. I was wondering how you were going to attach one, if that's the plan. But never mind, I see another part that actually sports one, so unless you're replacing that part, you're good. :)
     
  11. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I'm probably going to replace the emitter since the D-ring is attached at the wrong spot(directly under the screw, and not behind it).
    And hanging it won't be a problem:
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Okay ... I'm going to attempt to help you on your way ... so read all the instructions carefully twice, before touching any parts ... copy that? Then after your second read you can slowly start puting them together ... slowly ... no worries this message won't self-destruct in 10 seconds ... :wacko

    [​IMG]

    Okay here we go ... since everything is so nicely disassembled perhaps you should decide whether or not you want the text Micro Flash removed or not ... if so now is the time to file out the small rivets from the inside (U) and remove the text plate.

    Next part (A) and (B) belong together and via (C) in (H) should hover over (D), which is the hole in (G) not where I posted the D (sorry) ... when (H) and (G) are connected and emerge under (K) when you finally attach that part later, savey?
    Part (E) can be pressed and perhaps glued a little into (F) ... now I'm not certain what is left in (G) but somehow (F) and (G) have to connect inside (H). And (G) and (H) come together in (I) but you'll have to take the red wire off beforehand and attach back again lateron as well as the other coloured wires, which you should do as the final assembly.
    Part (J) goes under (K) and when assembled together should be kept in place by part (A).
    The longer screws (L) will have to be screwed from the outside of the tube at (M) possibly through (H) and to hold (G) in place.
    Now the only puzzled parts for me are (N), (O), and (P) ... which is perhaps a good moment to take a leak in the mens-room and reconsider where they should go, okay?
    The small screws (Q) go into (R) and endcap (S) goes onto (T) whereas shroud (V) goes onto the top of the tube at (W).
    Perhaps now that you start putting the pieces together it may jog your memory where parts (N), (O) and (P) were supposed to go ... :wacko

    As for the D-ring you could detach it before putting the shroud back on ... use some epoxy clay or JB Weld to fill the hole and carefully drill or file out another hole behind the topscrew after everything is dryed and re-attach that D-ring back in it's proper position ... so no need to get another shroud :wacko

    Chaim
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2015
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  13. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    It took me a couple of tries before I finally got the innards inside the tube. That pin (B) wanted to fall out every time...
    I would also recommend Roy's T-tracks.

    Have you thought about replacing the side-bars with angled ones?
     
  14. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol thanks :D I have no intention on rushing this :) I will definitely remove the MPP logo plaque since I am not doing an ANH saber.

    All of the small parts on the left should all fit inside the top of the D/G part(including the N O P parts), that much I know. However for example the E screw top haven't really been wanting to stay in place.
    I don't feel comfortable drilling using my dremel so... I'd rather just buy an accurate emitter.
    I will go through this later today probably :) thanks a bunch! I will let you know how it goes.

    The side-bars? :confused
    Yeah, the B-pin does not want to stay inside of A. Even when it did, I had no way to attach the A/B in the large D/G part
     
  15. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    That accurate emitter might be a bit hard to get . . . until Roy has finished his attempt to replicate it . . . and should you decide to not use that replica shroud Metallijosh is looking for one ;) Sidebars are those black pieces on the side of the clamp ... for ESB/ROTJ they were trapazoid in shape ... but I would not worry about them at the moment ... first let's start putting that MPP replica back together shall we? :wacko

    Chaim
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  16. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Hells yeah :wacko easier said than done :unsure
    Ah! Those sidebars, those will be replaced and the clamp lever needs to be removed. All in due time :)

    Hard to get is my middle name :lol
    Might sell this emitter to him then. NO idea how much it's worth though :confused
     
  17. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    K I S S = Keep It Simple Stupid is my motto so ... just ask him via PM how much he's willing to pay and then reach an agreement . . . satisfying both parties involved ... just to give you an estimate ... I paid $35 + shipping for a real MR FX plastic shroud last summer :)

    Chaim
     
  18. Metallijosh

    Metallijosh Active Member

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    I'd be down if you wanted to sell it.
     
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  19. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    PM sent :)
     
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  20. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Back in one piece, well almost :D
    pbt1.jpg
    Now for playing the waiting game, until I can get my hands on an accurate shroud.
     
  21. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Roy is working on getting the best possible deal on metal replica MPP shrouds including wrinkle painted ... so bear with him :)

    Chaim
     
  22. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Oh yeah :D sounds great, and I am in no hurry. Aiming for a full Vader suit before EP9 comes out :p
    I was going to do wrinkle paint on the Parks shroud, but then I noticed the not so accurate D-ring and decided to just sell it.
     
  23. Metallijosh

    Metallijosh Active Member

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    Just how inaccurate is the d ring on this thing?
     
  24. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That isn't really the issue(I think), it's more about the placement. It's attached directly under it, which it shouldn't be.
     
  25. Metallijosh

    Metallijosh Active Member

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    Oh, I can live with that.
     
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  26. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    More elegant weapons! :) Custsaber2.jpg

    ObiTril.jpg
    ANH Obi-Wan
    My 10 year old "Obi inspired"
    TPM Obi-Wan

    RustyObi1.jpg View attachment RustyObi2.jpg
    and some close ups of my distressing-in-progress, far from finished. No rust just an acrylic wash(red and tiny bit of yellow paint)
     
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  27. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Excellent paintjob ... looks real rusty indeed ... about your pommel ... the hole for the D-ring should be around 4 o'clock in regards to the clamp ... not almost in line with the clamp ;)

    Chaim
     
  28. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Thanks :D That I read :) I just put it together quickly in order to take some photos with my cellphone. I haven't even added the actual d-ring yet. And I have no idea what is "screen accurate" as far as the graflex clamp screws goes. Looking at other people's Obi sabers they differ in appearance. Should both screws look like the one I have attached or should the one that is missing NOT have the outer ring. Some sabers have it, on some it's missing :confused

    Might be better to ask Roman directly but is the, um cylinder part between the emitter and the grenade supposed to lose? :unsure
    lose.jpg
     
  29. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    That is called the 'windvane' and yes it should be able to rotate ... as for the 'screws' you mean 'transistors' ... well the Tunesia OB1 saber had the same 2 still on completely, whereas the one OB1 saber in Mechanismo/Chronicles book had the first transistor without a 'washer' attached.

    Chaim
     
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  30. Darth Lars

    Darth Lars Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    If the windwane is too loose then you could place a small piece of tape on the shaft and screw the vane over it. That is what I did.

    BTW. It seems that the grenade is on backwards in these pics. The beveled end should be at the top. ;)
     
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  31. Sym-Cha

    Sym-Cha Master Member

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    Now that you mention it ... that's what looked off to me ... I just could not figure out what was going on ... :wacko

    Chaim
     
  32. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Added some more fake rust to another.... part of the saber and I think the "rust texture" is a lot better than what I achieved on the grenade. I also flipped the grenade around :$
    I skipped my cellphone and used my Nikon instead.

    View attachment morerust.jpg
    Different lighting setups for each of the full photos.

    Great idea :D
    Amen, va faa-aan :facepalm GO ME :lol

    transistors huh? Okay :p "transistors" it is. I guess I will go with both washers attached. Dank je :D
     
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  33. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I finally found the *on* switch! :p :lol
    OWK4.jpg
    small warning, 5K resolution
     
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  34. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Small update - destroyed the lever and got it a little closer to ESB accuracy :)
    byebyelever.jpg

    A HUGE thank you and shout out to Roy the Man ;) dank je @roygilsing

    byebyelever.jpg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
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  35. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    More Obi-Wan Kenobi goodness:
    owklightup1.jpg
    Finally added the D-ring and also added a lot more weathering.
    owkdetails1.jpg owkdetails2.jpg owkdetails3.jpg owkdetails4.jpg

    Checking out how it looks with a different pommel
    owkPommel1.jpg owkPommel2.jpg

    And a none-lightsaber related xmas gift from myself to me:
    isd-hdr.jpg
    I haven't done many model kits in my years, so this fiarly simple and very straight forward kit was very nice :)
    Will post a few beauty shots after I have added the necessary CG setting for it.
     
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  36. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    R.I.P. Carrie :(

    modelisd.jpg
    Took these three photos and animated them:

    isd-xwings1.jpg isd-xwings2.jpg

    I must say, the model does hold up better than I expected.

     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 8, 2018
  37. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Finally added the circuit board under the bubble strip. After carefully using my dremel to cut it down to the right size. And then sand the bubble strip a little, in order for them to actually fit in the clamp.

    vaderclamp2.jpg vaderclamp1.jpg

    :D
     
  38. parfaitelumiere

    parfaitelumiere Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    smells like six digits
     
  39. The Terminator

    The Terminator Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    What does? :p
     

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