Aluminum Lightsaber Weathering experts?

PaleHaunt

New Member
One thing I love doing is weathering, but there's a technique out there, I simply can't replicate no matter what I try. Even aluminum Blue, I can't seem to get this close, it's wonderfully even, and this looks to be something different then just aluminum blue and removal. Any thoughts how I can achieve this look, exactly? The subtle look and gradation is beautiful.

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The photos you posted look like parts were darkened and then put on a lathe to spin - that is how you get the even finish. You can achieve similar results by running long bolts through various parts and spinning them with a hand drill. Outside of that, I have learned to dilute whatever chemical you are using (brass black, aluminum black, etc.) and applying multiple applications to get your desired finish. Fine steel wool is also your friend here.
 
The photos you posted look like parts were darkened and then put on a lathe to spin - that is how you get the even finish. You can achieve similar results by running long bolts through various parts and spinning them with a hand drill. Outside of that, I have learned to dilute whatever chemical you are using (brass black, aluminum black, etc.) and applying multiple applications to get your desired finish. Fine steel wool is also your friend here.
Another vote for Steel wool..
 
I use a driveway/pavement, steel wool, needle files, and drybrushed black and burnt umber acrylics to weather.
 
I don't think you necessarily need a lathe or other power tools, you can spin them in your hand and buff them with steel wool.
 
Outside of that, I have learned to dilute whatever chemical you are using (brass black, aluminum black, etc.) and applying multiple applications to get your desired finish. Fine steel wool is also your friend here.

^This.

The best results from aluminum black I ever had were from putting a few drops into a small container filled with water, rubbing the part all over with steel wool, then dropping it directly into the bath. It slowly, slowly darkened and once it was at the level I liked, I pulled it out, rinsed it off, and gave it another rubdown with the steel wool. The results looked very similar to the OP's photo.
 
I'll add some tips and tricks of my own.

Perma Blue is for steel, it can do weird things to raw aluminum, and almost nothing to lathed or CNCed pieces.

Heating the parts first can help quicken the reaction, and get the blueing deeper into the surface

With any abrasive, doing it by hand, do it in the direction you want it to end up. Spin it in your hands, go straight along flat surfaces, etc. I have done emitters in a drill press tho and it looks spectacular. really crank down your nuts/bolt here, don't want it flying off at you.

metal files, normal sandpaper, high grit sandpaper, green scrubby pads, steel wool, paper towels - in that order from most to least material removal. (in my experience)

Blueing is an acidic reaction, you're basically rusting or oxidizing your part in a way.... so it can change after the reaction is done. Run water over the part to neutralize it. If it's steel, put it on the stove over a low flame and that will boil off any water in little crevices. Follow up with a clear coat, paste wax, oil, etc. something to cut off the air.

Johnsons paste wax can completely remove a blackening or blueing finish. ask me how I know.
 
Layers. Everything is done in layers. Aluminum black, the buff it back with some fine steel wool. Then repeat one or more times. Buffing with steel wool between using your hand, won't reach the crevices. So it will will naturally stay darker there. Looks great.

Most importantly, clean everything. Make sure it's bone dry. And always use distilled water. The slightest bit of mineral in tap water after a rinse will dry and give you a splotchy finish, when you go and dunk it in you aluminum black. It doesn't hurt to a final clean with something like rubbing alcohol or something else that evaporates.

Then if you want a kind of grimey, "carbon scoring" kinda look. I love flat black spray paint that's been chilled. You can mist that on. Dab off the excess with some duct tape. Mask off where you don't want any paint. Really gives a nice look. That's one thing I did for the face of the emitter on my Obi-Wan.

Weathering a saber is probably my favorite part of the build. Trying to just get "that" look.
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my 2 cents.... Clean it with warm soapy water. Degrease it. Use red scotchbright (sandpaper will lose those edges). dip it in dry pickling salts (see manufacturer for more info), rinse quick with water then dip in water and a14 for 3 - 5 seconds, take out and leave for 1 minute. Rinse with water. Heat the piece to take off any moisture then use fine wire wool. Don't press too hard as the level of pressure effects the colour. If you want to dip again in a14 then be sure to not touch it with your fingers as you'll get it greasy. Once its cooled put in for 5 seconds again and leave to stand for 1 - 3 mins depending on how dark you want it.

If you mess it up you can boil the thing for 10 mins in malt vinegar and water. 50/50. Then it will wipe off.... may be worth doing that first so you are starting with a blank canvas.... though the paste wax sounds good, never used that.
 

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The photos you posted look like parts were darkened and then put on a lathe to spin - that is how you get the even finish. You can achieve similar results by running long bolts through various parts and spinning them with a hand drill. Outside of that, I have learned to dilute whatever chemical you are using (brass black, aluminum black, etc.) and applying multiple applications to get your desired finish. Fine steel wool is also your friend here.
You're not right, we didn't use a lathe or a drill. Also this was made not by steel wool :)
I can't tell about our secrets but the main: you need to prepare all the parts before using any chemistry like Alu black (we don't use this compound btw)
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I had good results greying aluminum with oven clean spray. I soaked the piece in spray for about then minutes three times to get the look I wanted. But be careful not to overdo it. Then you could use some fine grade steel wool to polish it to the look you want. It's important that the polishing is done in one direction, and not rubbed back and forth. If you get it to spin as others have mentioned it will be quick and easy.
 
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