I'll add some tips and tricks of my own.
Perma Blue is for steel, it can do weird things to raw aluminum, and almost nothing to lathed or CNCed pieces.
Heating the parts first can help quicken the reaction, and get the blueing deeper into the surface
With any abrasive, doing it by hand, do it in the direction you want it to end up. Spin it in your hands, go straight along flat surfaces, etc. I have done emitters in a drill press tho and it looks spectacular. really crank down your nuts/bolt here, don't want it flying off at you.
metal files, normal sandpaper, high grit sandpaper, green scrubby pads, steel wool, paper towels - in that order from most to least material removal. (in my experience)
Blueing is an acidic reaction, you're basically rusting or oxidizing your part in a way.... so it can change after the reaction is done. Run water over the part to neutralize it. If it's steel, put it on the stove over a low flame and that will boil off any water in little crevices. Follow up with a clear coat, paste wax, oil, etc. something to cut off the air.
Johnsons paste wax can completely remove a blackening or blueing finish. ask me how I know.