Airsoft replicas

Reverend Smeg

New Member
Okay, so, one of my personal dream projects is to take airsoft versions of the Mauser C96 and the Sten, preferably electronic so I wouldn't have to keep cocking them, and build them up into 'firing' replicas of the DL-44 and the E-11.

What I'd like to know is whether or not anyone else has tried this, what were the results, and most importantly, is this just an inherently insane idea that should be abandoned as soon as possible?

I would appreciate any feedback, good or ill.

Thanks in advance
 
Well I'm pretty sure you will have to go with a gas powered Mauser, and the E-11 is based off of a Sterling rifle not a Sten but an AEG Sterling does exist. I haven't personally attempted anything like it, but I'm sure others have, I think I remember watching a video where Adam Savage mentions having a replica, can't remember which gun, built around an airsoft gun but he said it wasn't as fun as you'd imagine.

If you've really got the itch here's a few links I found on google

http://www.airsplat.com/hfc-mauser-c-96-c96-metal-gas-airsoft.html
http://www.evike.com/products/50076/
 
Okay, so, one of my personal dream projects is to take airsoft versions of the Mauser C96 and the Sten, preferably electronic so I wouldn't have to keep cocking them, and build them up into 'firing' replicas of the DL-44 and the E-11.

What I'd like to know is whether or not anyone else has tried this, what were the results, and most importantly, is this just an inherently insane idea that should be abandoned as soon as possible?

I would appreciate any feedback, good or ill.

Thanks in advance

I think you meant Sterling (Mk4 L2A3) for E-11 :)
 
Currently there is no airsoft version of the Mauser C96. Only the 712 variant.

I can't tell the difference, but is there anything besides pinpoint accuracy that would keep the 712 from being a "close enough" base for a DL-44?

Not trying to argue, just genuinely curious
 
I can't tell the difference, but is there anything besides pinpoint accuracy that would keep the 712 from being a "close enough" base for a DL-44?

Not trying to argue, just genuinely curious

The 712 has that extra bit on the left hand side. The c96 doesn't have it. Not exactly sure what it is called, but it is easy to pick out when you know what to look for.
 
Yes, the 712 has the selector switch on the left side. So, you'd have to remove that. You'd also have to cut down the magazine. Unless you know what you're doing, both of these mods may make it inoperable, which would defeat the purpose of using it in order to have a firing DL44.
 
Yes, the 712 has the selector switch on the left side. So, you'd have to remove that. You'd also have to cut down the magazine. Unless you know what you're doing, both of these mods may make it inoperable, which would defeat the purpose of using it in order to have a firing DL44.

Ah gotcha I read about the 712 being select fire so that makes sense. I forgot about the magazine issue, and that is likely where the gas chamber is so it might not be possible to cut down like you said :(
 
I'm currently in the middle of making one of my own off of this particular Mauser 712;
http://www.evike.com/products/24054/
It's not impossible, and if you aren't too concerned with screen accuracy its not a bad base for it. The firing on the gun isn't too bad, the gas is indeed housed in the magazine with the BB's. The only issue I had with it was the color that it came with. The gun was this dark gray color that I wasn't too fond of. I stripped it down and used some Birchwood Casey's steel blue and I really like the way it looks now.
The firing selector switch is removable but it leaves a hole and slots in its place. These can probably be filled or brazed and blued, but I didn't want to try that due the gun body probably being steel and I only have sticks of Aluweld or whatever it is called. The milled slots on the gun itself are not totally the same as the c96, they are a bit more idealized to fit the gun body.
As for the magazine, it can be cut down, but it was not an easy task. There are pins on the side of the magazine housing that keep the base securely in place. Once these are popped out, I went at it with a hacksaw, cut it down, and smoothed it out. Unfortunately, the base and its gasket requires a bit of a recess to fit back in, so I had to mill out a pocket for it to fit back in and cut the spring down the corresponding length. I surprisingly enough managed to do it without any leaks (as far as I can detect) but the gas capacity is significantly reduced. Not that I mind, I don't plan on taking it out of the house at all or using it in any situation which would require a lot of shots, but it's something to keep in mind. I have seen short mags that are made for this model, but everywhere I go its sold out or unavailable. Actually, here is a shortened magazine, I may have to get one just as a backup.
All the parts I machined myself based on the paper robot drawings that I found here: http://www.paperrobots1999.com/downloads/DL44_ANH_rev9.jpg
The barrel can be easily cut with a hacksaw, as can the inner barrel that the bb's shoot through. Dissassemble the gun, wrap the inner barrel in tape and reassemble and it will be perfectly secure.
Since I'm not a machinist by any means, I can't be too worried about screen accuracy (because I can't machine something within tolerances that close lol), It's not done yet, I just have to finish the scope mount, reblue the scope and mount and finish weathering everything. But long story short, it can be done.
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EDIT: And as for the scope mount bracket itself,in order to ensure that there is no interference with the internal mechanism, I used JB weld and some standoffs, I saw someone do this on a real Mauser, and it has worked well so far, except it fell on the floor once and popped off, I have since re glued it back on, and if it happens again, I will just have to braze it on.
 
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Yes, the 712 has the selector switch on the left side. So, you'd have to remove that. You'd also have to cut down the magazine. Unless you know what you're doing, both of these mods may make it inoperable, which would defeat the purpose of using it in order to have a firing DL44.

Don't forget that after you remove the selector switch, you still need to add the grooved rectangle detailing in that area.
 
Don't forget that after you remove the selector switch, you still need to add the grooved rectangle detailing in that area.

When you remove the selector switch, this is what is left in its place, it would be need to filled in and then milled out
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And on the opposite side of the body, the screw holding it in place would need to remain, as it helps to keep the pistol together.

AJ2VNFF.jpg
It can be done, but would be difficult. This side is also without the milled grove in the upper left hand side, I believe.
 
I have the Umarex 712 CO2 version (the latest one is a full gas blow back with metal body). I posted a thread on it here:

http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=238096

ccnus do you have the HFC version? The magazine looks different from the Umarex have (which is based on the Marushin, originally).

With the DEC kit hot-glue gunned on to check the fit:

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Cheers
 
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