Adding mediums to epoxy mixture?

Discussion in 'Replica Props' started by Fawbish, Jul 8, 2015.

  1. Fawbish

    Fawbish Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,525
    So I was wondering - after a bit of a search I can't find specifics - it's a bit of a possibly interesting/most likely silly question.

    I currently use a product Smooth Ons XTC-3D in aiding on smoothing out 3D prints. So thats all good. I'm experimenting soon with some iron powder, which I will be adding to the Part B of this epoxy mix, so that I can buff it up afterwards for a metallic affect. Now my next question is - can I add a spray of colour from the spray paints I have (mostly fast dry enamel based sprays) to the Part B of the resin, and mix quickly for an inherent colour within the epoxy. I of course work in a ventilated area etc. Basically, can anyone think of any reasons why this would not work - could the enamel react badly during the curing process etc?

    There's only one way to find out of course if no one has used this particular mix before. So may attempt it later this evening.

    Cheers for any input
     
  2. cavx

    cavx Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    4,196
    Whilst you can add oil based paint to silicone to tint it, I would not recommend adding ANYTHING to resins unless it is specified as OK.

    You can buy a wide range of colours and metallic finishes from your resin supplier. Because you only need very small amounts, these containers will last a very long time.
     
  3. Fawbish

    Fawbish Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,525
    Yeah I was aware of specific additives that can be used - as everyone usually does I'm attempting to spend nothing and achieve everything, haha. Advice noted. Thanks
     
  4. robn1

    robn1 Master Member

    Trophy Points:
    3,355
    I once tried tinting epoxy with acrylic paint, just a small drop, and it never hardened. It just stayed rubbery. Try looking in art stores like Micheal's for tint made for epoxy, they may have smaller sizes than casting suppliers.
     
  5. aetherdeus

    aetherdeus Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    If you're going Smooth-On, I'd say use the UVO colors, though I think their So-Strong will work too. I agree with everybody else, I'd avoid using just any ol' thing something like epoxy
     
  6. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,306
    I use UVO color tints with XTC-3D, works well and you only need a tiny dab.
     
  7. Darksyde13

    Darksyde13 Active Member

    Trophy Points:
    341
    It is best to experiment. There are non-epoxy spacifc products that can be used but there is always a chance it will cause defects and/or inhibit curing which depends largely on the type of epoxy used and how it does its thing. From what I have read resins tend to be a tad more forgiving with additives than epoxy.
     
  8. Fawbish

    Fawbish Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,525
    Great information everyone exactly what I was looking for. I'll have to have a look at ordering a small sample where possible on payday. Cheers!

    - - - Updated - - -

    Do you have any images of the finished prints using this method chief?
     
  9. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,306
    Sure. Here's a helmet that I printed and applied some tinted XTC. I tint it so I can tell if I've covered everything. It's difficult to tell when the stuff is clear, I find it easier to tint it.



    tinted xtc.jpg







    Keep in mind that you can use either UVO color tints or So Strong color tints, both from Smooth On. Smooth On recommends only those for coloring XTC-3D. Also, remember the stuff goes a long way. When mixing into XTC, I use the end of one prong on a plastic fork and get a tiny dab, that's all you need.

    Hope it helps!
     
    Fawbish likes this.
  10. Fawbish

    Fawbish Sr Member

    Trophy Points:
    1,525
    That's excellent mate cheers. And I know what you mean, I'm working on some gauntlets (thankfully a lot of flat angles) and I'm constantly holding them up to the window so that I can see the surface rather than just knowing that its covered haha. also, I know it sands OK but so far I cant say I'm massively happy with how it sands. Im thinking maybe I should wait more than 24 hours to sand it rather than 12 or so. I get a bit eager unfortunately. I'll look at some smooth on stuff cheers!

    Great helmet btw
     
  11. GhostMinion

    GhostMinion Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

    Trophy Points:
    2,306

    No problem, man. Happy to help. :)
     

Share This Page