Adding mediums to epoxy mixture?

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Fawbish

Sr Member
So I was wondering - after a bit of a search I can't find specifics - it's a bit of a possibly interesting/most likely silly question.

I currently use a product Smooth Ons XTC-3D in aiding on smoothing out 3D prints. So thats all good. I'm experimenting soon with some iron powder, which I will be adding to the Part B of this epoxy mix, so that I can buff it up afterwards for a metallic affect. Now my next question is - can I add a spray of colour from the spray paints I have (mostly fast dry enamel based sprays) to the Part B of the resin, and mix quickly for an inherent colour within the epoxy. I of course work in a ventilated area etc. Basically, can anyone think of any reasons why this would not work - could the enamel react badly during the curing process etc?

There's only one way to find out of course if no one has used this particular mix before. So may attempt it later this evening.

Cheers for any input
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

cavx

Master Member
Whilst you can add oil based paint to silicone to tint it, I would not recommend adding ANYTHING to resins unless it is specified as OK.

You can buy a wide range of colours and metallic finishes from your resin supplier. Because you only need very small amounts, these containers will last a very long time.
 

Fawbish

Sr Member
Yeah I was aware of specific additives that can be used - as everyone usually does I'm attempting to spend nothing and achieve everything, haha. Advice noted. Thanks
 

robn1

Master Member
I once tried tinting epoxy with acrylic paint, just a small drop, and it never hardened. It just stayed rubbery. Try looking in art stores like Micheal's for tint made for epoxy, they may have smaller sizes than casting suppliers.
 

aetherdeus

Active Member
If you're going Smooth-On, I'd say use the UVO colors, though I think their So-Strong will work too. I agree with everybody else, I'd avoid using just any ol' thing something like epoxy
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Darksyde13

Active Member
It is best to experiment. There are non-epoxy spacifc products that can be used but there is always a chance it will cause defects and/or inhibit curing which depends largely on the type of epoxy used and how it does its thing. From what I have read resins tend to be a tad more forgiving with additives than epoxy.
 

Fawbish

Sr Member
Great information everyone exactly what I was looking for. I'll have to have a look at ordering a small sample where possible on payday. Cheers!

- - - Updated - - -

I use UVO color tints with XTC-3D, works well and you only need a tiny dab.
Do you have any images of the finished prints using this method chief?
 

GhostMinion

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Sure. Here's a helmet that I printed and applied some tinted XTC. I tint it so I can tell if I've covered everything. It's difficult to tell when the stuff is clear, I find it easier to tint it.



tinted xtc.jpg







Keep in mind that you can use either UVO color tints or So Strong color tints, both from Smooth On. Smooth On recommends only those for coloring XTC-3D. Also, remember the stuff goes a long way. When mixing into XTC, I use the end of one prong on a plastic fork and get a tiny dab, that's all you need.

Hope it helps!
 

Fawbish

Sr Member
Sure. Here's a helmet that I printed and applied some tinted XTC. I tint it so I can tell if I've covered everything. It's difficult to tell when the stuff is clear, I find it easier to tint it.



View attachment 498946







Keep in mind that you can use either UVO color tints or So Strong color tints, both from Smooth On. Smooth On recommends only those for coloring XTC-3D. Also, remember the stuff goes a long way. When mixing into XTC, I use the end of one prong on a plastic fork and get a tiny dab, that's all you need.

Hope it helps!
That's excellent mate cheers. And I know what you mean, I'm working on some gauntlets (thankfully a lot of flat angles) and I'm constantly holding them up to the window so that I can see the surface rather than just knowing that its covered haha. also, I know it sands OK but so far I cant say I'm massively happy with how it sands. Im thinking maybe I should wait more than 24 hours to sand it rather than 12 or so. I get a bit eager unfortunately. I'll look at some smooth on stuff cheers!

Great helmet btw
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

GhostMinion

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
That's excellent mate cheers. And I know what you mean, I'm working on some gauntlets (thankfully a lot of flat angles) and I'm constantly holding them up to the window so that I can see the surface rather than just knowing that its covered haha. also, I know it sands OK but so far I cant say I'm massively happy with how it sands. Im thinking maybe I should wait more than 24 hours to sand it rather than 12 or so. I get a bit eager unfortunately. I'll look at some smooth on stuff cheers!

Great helmet btw

No problem, man. Happy to help. :)
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top